Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree2991Likes

1/12 forum

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-28-2011 | 01:09 PM
  #35926  
Tech Initiate
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 23
From: The Netherlands
Default 12R5.1 & KO PDS-951ICS servo

Ok, I have the following issue.

I have two 12R5.1, both with a KO Propo #30048 PDS-951ICS servo. The servo saver axle is not sitting in the middle of the car, its about 0.25mm off center.

With the servo saver sitting perfectly vertical in neutral and no steering input given, this causes one steering turnbuckle to be 0.5mm longer than the other one, while having perfectly neutral toe. So there is an a-symmetry in the steering geometry, giving the following results while steering:

full steering to the left: 16° outer wheel lock, 25° inner wheel lock
full steering to the right: 16.5° outer wheel lock, 23.75° inner wheel lock

So basically I can't get identical lock values on the inner and outer wheels at the same time. Match the outer wheels and the inner wheel lock values aren't similar, and vice verse. For now I've leveled it out somewhat while keeping in mind the outer wheel has more effect on steering than the inner. The other car has the exact same issues.

My transmitter (KO Propo #80400 EX-10 Eurus) is set up as following:

trim: R7 (servo saver perfectly vertical with no steering input)
balance left: 45%
balance right: 66%
travel: 100%

The difference between left and right balance is due to the balance being calculated by the transmitter with the absolute zero point/trim 0 as reference, while the trim is set to right 7 to get the servo saver in a perfect vertical position. Annoying, but not an issue at all.

Now, to the point. These wheel lock differences could all be taken away by making sure the server saver is sitting in the middle of the car, by modifying the servo mounting blocks or chassis plate. Are there any servo mounts available for this car/servo combo?

A second solution, but a rather nasty one, might be setting the car up with the servo saver not sitting vertical in neutral, but under an angle, with no steering input and the wheels in perfectly neutral toe. It might work, but it would involve a lot of tinkering and I think its way too messy. Symmetry is key imo.

Last edited by kjoer; 05-28-2011 at 01:40 PM.
kjoer is offline  
Old 05-28-2011 | 01:36 PM
  #35927  
RedBullFiXX's Avatar
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,542
From: Intergalactic Planetary
Default

Originally Posted by kjoer
Ok, I have the following issue.

I have two 12R5.1, both with a KO Propo #30048 PDS-951ICS servo. The servo saver axle is not sitting in the middle of the car, its about 0.25mm off center.

With the servo saver sitting perfectly vertical in neutral and no steering input given, this causes one steering turnbuckle to be 0.5mm longer than the other one, while having perfectly neutral toe. So there is an a-symmetry in the steering geometry, giving the following results while steering:

full steering to the left: 16° outer wheel lock, 25° inner wheel lock
full steering to the right: 16.5° outer wheel lock, 23.75° inner wheel lock

So basically I can't get identical lock values on the inner and outer wheels at the same time. Match the outer wheels and the inner wheel lock values aren't similar, and vice verse. For now I've averaged it out while keeping in mind the outer wheel has more effect on steering than the inner. The other car has the exact same issues.

My transmitter (KO Propo #80400 EX-10 Eurus) is set up as following:

trim: R7 (servo saver perfectly vertical with no steering input)
balance left: 45%
balance right: 66%
travel: 100%

The difference between left and right balance is due to the balance being calculated with the absolute zero point/trim 0 as reference, with the trim being set to right 7 to get the servo saver in a perfect vertical position. Annoying, but not an issue at all.

Now, to the point. These wheel lock differences could all be taken away by making sure the server saver is sitting in the middle of the car, by modifying the servo mounting blocks or chassis plate. Are there any servo mounts available for this car/servo combo?

A second solution, but a rather nasty one, might be setting the car up with the servo saver not sitting vertical in neutral, but under an angle, with no steering input and the wheels in perfectly neutral toe. It might work, but it would involve a lot of tinkering and I think its way too messy. Symmetry is key imo.
It's perfectly centered with Futaba servos, but It helped to hold the servo to the left side of the chassis while tightening the mounts.
You could use servo tape to install your KO centered.

Like you, I prefer hard mounts though.
RedBullFiXX is offline  
Old 05-28-2011 | 10:19 PM
  #35928  
andrewdoherty's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (49)
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,806
From: ★Wylie, TX★
Default

There ought to be enough play between the servo ears and the mount to allow you to shift it in which ever direction you need .25 mm. If not, try using a slightly smaller OD shim behind the screw you are using to attach the servo to the servo mount. This will allow some wiggle room.
andrewdoherty is offline  
Old 05-28-2011 | 10:50 PM
  #35929  
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,220
Default

since we're talking about servos not being centered - anyone have a savox servo? Mine is about 3mm off center. Should I just chuck the servo mounts and servo tape it in the middle?

Like the previous poster - to get the same angle on both sides of the steering at lock, the numbers are way off...
mikeygar is offline  
Old 05-29-2011 | 01:55 AM
  #35930  
wingman2's Avatar
Tech Master
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,259
From: Tewkesbury, UK via Plymouth, UK.
Default

I like to use the servo mounts from the RC12L4, as you can get the servo exactly in the middle because the mounts themselves have a decent amount of adjustment. I only thing I did to them was to take the anodizing off, as a set of BLUE servo mounts in a CRC car is not the done thing, haha!!
wingman2 is offline  
Old 05-29-2011 | 02:05 AM
  #35931  
wingman2's Avatar
Tech Master
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,259
From: Tewkesbury, UK via Plymouth, UK.
Default

Been running my car with 5 degree castor blocks, and was pretty happy with it. I thought I would try out the 10 degree blocks and thought the car had alot less intial turn in. In fact, the car felt very slow on the initial steering input however I got the single fastest lap of the meeting. Would it now be good to stick with the 10 degree blocks and put thicker damper fluid in the damper tubes to get that initial steering back? Just an idea, what do you think? Cheers, Chris.
wingman2 is offline  
Old 05-29-2011 | 02:17 AM
  #35932  
jackdani's Avatar
Tech Adept
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 198
Default

hi guys,
i m writing here because i m new to 1/12

after a year of 1/10 racing i decided to buy a frind for my tc6..
infact 2 days ago a purchased an 12r5 (first model) which is on the way.

in the meanwhile it is coming i would like to ask some question, i think easy questions for all of you..

-may i use both my lrp stock spec mk3 and my npsram pearl spec for 1c lipo, right?

-talking about servos, there is any way to install a normal servo on the car, or i do need a mini servo?
and in this case, which do you find better? i usually run savox servos, and i have on 1251 which i would like to use,but i think it is a little bit overdimentioned (not in dimentions) in terms of torque,
it is 9kg while i saw all 1/12 servos with like 4/5 kg max?
what do you suggest?

-and about the shell, i m going to buy a protoform speed 12 gtp,
just because it is the one i like most,
but there are any indications for the shell like we have in touring for the speed 6, the ltcr and so on...?

-finally a simple question about the motor,
i decided to strt with lrp 10.5 t stock spec, just because i have a spere one and also casuse people told me not to start with 5.5 or 4.5 or anything under 10.5
in this case i should drive the same final ratio the 10.5 have in touring?
do i need to be 6-6.5?

thanks everyone for your patience,

i rellay need to solve this doubts!

p.s. my tracks are carpet only!

jackdani is offline  
Old 05-29-2011 | 02:29 AM
  #35933  
tim fry's Avatar
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 626
From: Kent UK
Default

Originally Posted by mikeygar
since we're talking about servos not being centered - anyone have a savox servo? Mine is about 3mm off center. Should I just chuck the servo mounts and servo tape it in the middle?

Like the previous poster - to get the same angle on both sides of the steering at lock, the numbers are way off...
Savox servos are well out. The people who have used them here all redrilled the chassis
tim fry is online now  
Old 05-29-2011 | 07:06 AM
  #35934  
RedBullFiXX's Avatar
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,542
From: Intergalactic Planetary
Default

Originally Posted by jackdani
hi guys,
i m writing here because i m new to 1/12

after a year of 1/10 racing i decided to buy a frind for my tc6..
infact 2 days ago a purchased an 12r5 (first model) which is on the way.

in the meanwhile it is coming i would like to ask some question, i think easy questions for all of you..

-may i use both my lrp stock spec mk3 and my npsram pearl spec for 1c lipo, right?

-talking about servos, there is any way to install a normal servo on the car, or i do need a mini servo?
and in this case, which do you find better? i usually run savox servos, and i have on 1251 which i would like to use,but i think it is a little bit overdimentioned (not in dimentions) in terms of torque,
it is 9kg while i saw all 1/12 servos with like 4/5 kg max?
what do you suggest?

-and about the shell, i m going to buy a protoform speed 12 gtp,
just because it is the one i like most,
but there are any indications for the shell like we have in touring for the speed 6, the ltcr and so on...?

-finally a simple question about the motor,
i decided to strt with lrp 10.5 t stock spec, just because i have a spere one and also casuse people told me not to start with 5.5 or 4.5 or anything under 10.5
in this case i should drive the same final ratio the 10.5 have in touring?
do i need to be 6-6.5?

thanks everyone for your patience,

i rellay need to solve this doubts!

p.s. my tracks are carpet only!

Congrats on your 1st 12th scale
You are in for a lot of fun

I've compiled a list of links here to help with your build.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/californ...ll-so-cal.html

That body will work well for your application.

Gearing for pan cars is based on rollout for tire size and gear ratio, not fixed like sedan.

Stock spec esc is a good choice.

Futaba S9650 is most widely used servo for 12th.
RedBullFiXX is offline  
Old 05-29-2011 | 08:09 AM
  #35935  
jackdani's Avatar
Tech Adept
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 198
Default

Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX
Congrats on your 1st 12th scale
You are in for a lot of fun

I've compiled a list of links here to help with your build.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/californ...ll-so-cal.html

That body will work well for your application.

Gearing for pan cars is based on rollout for tire size and gear ratio, not fixed like sedan.

Stock spec esc is a good choice.

Futaba S9650 is most widely used servo for 12th.

thanks very much, it will help a lot.

could you just explain a little bit how am i suppose to gear the car?

i mean, i can calculate the final ratio of course, but how the diametere of the tire change the parameters?

spur/ pinion X ratio (which is 1 in pan car right?)
and then?
can you make an exaple with your car so i understand?

and with the consume of the foam tire..do we need to adjust something?

thanks!
jackdani is offline  
Old 05-29-2011 | 08:23 AM
  #35936  
HarryLeach's Avatar
Tech Master
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,859
From: Hampton, VA, USA
Default

Roll-out = Tire Diameter * PI / (Spur / Pinion)

Most guys running 1/12 will measure Tire Diameter in mm, which will give your roll-out in mm.

If you're going to run a 10.5, I've usually run it around a 60mm roll-out with a boosted ESC.

I made an excel spreadsheet I use to figure out gearing, PM me an email address and I'll share if you're interested.
HarryLeach is offline  
Old 05-29-2011 | 09:04 AM
  #35937  
rcbo's Avatar
Tech Master
iTrader: (44)
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,090
Default

Originally Posted by HarryLeach
Roll-out = Tire Diameter * PI / (Spur / Pinion)

Most guys running 1/12 will measure Tire Diameter in mm, which will give your roll-out in mm.

If you're going to run a 10.5, I've usually run it around a 60mm roll-out with a boosted ESC.

I made an excel spreadsheet I use to figure out gearing, PM me an email address and I'll share if you're interested.
Could i get that spread sheat?
[email protected]
rcbo is offline  
Old 05-29-2011 | 07:21 PM
  #35938  
Yokomo_Ant3's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (29)
 
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,413
From: Australia
Default

Has anyone tried the TRC tyres on asphalt? Looking for some new tyres and love a black rim, they just need to work on asphalt Is the rubber the same as CRC?

Cheers,

Antoni

Last edited by Yokomo_Ant3; 05-29-2011 at 07:39 PM.
Yokomo_Ant3 is offline  
Old 05-29-2011 | 07:28 PM
  #35939  
HarryLeach's Avatar
Tech Master
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,859
From: Hampton, VA, USA
Default

Originally Posted by rcbo
Could i get that spread sheat?
[email protected]
Sent.
HarryLeach is offline  
Old 05-30-2011 | 12:29 AM
  #35940  
Andy12's Avatar
Tech Apprentice
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 63
From: Sydney
Default New Speedmind Rims

Hey Antoni

I see you were asking about the new Speedminds.
They are on a 38mm rim now , the rear has the same offset as the CRC rims you are using. The rear tyre comes trued to approx 50mm. I haven't seen the new front yet. The 30/32 combo worked really well at the Much More Masters.
Andy12 is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.