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Old 05-21-2011 | 06:41 PM
  #2911  
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Originally Posted by Jonnywachter
The back location on the rack is for when you run inline spindles, because when you run inline spindles you are supposed to run the spindle carriers in the back position to keep the wheel base the same and when you move the spindle carrier back you need the move the inner ball stud back to keep the steering chamber link at the same angle.
Wact! You are soo right I stand corrected. Got those 2 setups confused

Jake
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Old 05-21-2011 | 09:06 PM
  #2912  
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Originally Posted by air8
Anyone ever had to modify the front top plastic bulkhead on the newer kits? Last night I had to grind clearance for the steering rack. The front bulkhead acted like a positive stop. I've never had a problem in this area before. So I"m just asking. In the future if I had to replace the front top bulkhead I would have to take the dremel to it every time. IDK.
Anyone ever have this problem on their rack? I had to do this same fix last night. I swear it was fine when I was building it, but after about a week of running it, the servo saver started rubbing against the top plate. We had to dremel a little piece of the top plate to give it some clearance.
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Old 05-21-2011 | 11:34 PM
  #2913  
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Cool The Mains of the IFMAR Worlds Warm-Ups!

The mains of the 2011 IFMAR Electric Buggy Worlds Warm-Up are posted at www.rcinsider.com...

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Old 05-22-2011 | 07:27 AM
  #2914  
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Originally Posted by Asharus
Anyone ever have this problem on their rack? I had to do this same fix last night. I swear it was fine when I was building it, but after about a week of running it, the servo saver started rubbing against the top plate. We had to dremel a little piece of the top plate to give it some clearance.
I'm not sure which area you guys are referring to, but are you sure the servo saver didn't loosen up on you?
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Old 05-22-2011 | 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
I'm not sure which area you guys are referring to, but are you sure the servo saver didn't loosen up on you?
Yep, servo saver is locked. I've also noticed that the rack is not completely straight, it's slightly more forward on the left side than the right side. Not like my SC10 which is completely straight.

It might be possible that the left side was pulled back a little by the body pin screw?



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Old 05-22-2011 | 08:18 AM
  #2916  
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I think the front brace needs to be replaced. The screws that hold the steering rack on have tweaked and thrown the assembly out of wack.
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Old 05-22-2011 | 08:18 AM
  #2917  
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Mine is perfectly straight, but that looks crazy.

Is the long screw threaded completely in?

I don't know where the longer arm came from, as they all share the same part number. If you pull it apart, is the left steering arm the same length as the right one?
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Old 05-22-2011 | 08:24 AM
  #2918  
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Was in the B4/T4 thread until I found the FT one

Copy/paste from the other thread:

I'm thinking of getting a B4.1 and I'm contemplating what esc/motor combo to use.

Just went through the 10 last pages but did not find much (unlike the RC8 thread where there's a lot of talk about esc/motor combo's).

17.5 was mentioned a few times. Once even called FAST! which surprised me somewhat. Someone had 10.5. Another was a 3500Kv which should be about 13.5.

I'm confused... It does not all sound that fast. I don't race but bash with friends on a medium size track. I have a SC10 on 3800kv and a Hyper 10SC (4wd) on 4800kv. Also use a RC8e with 2050kv (4s) on a bigger track. In short; I like my cars fast.

What would you recommend for a (fast) B4.1?


Also read last 10 pages here; quite some mention of 8.5...

I often use Castle; How would a Sidewinder V2 with 4800 or 5700 do? Only cost a third of the "preferred" Tekin
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Old 05-22-2011 | 08:27 AM
  #2919  
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Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
Mine is perfectly straight, but that looks crazy.

Is the long screw threaded completely in?

I don't know where the longer arm came from, as they all share the same part number. If you pull it apart, is the left steering arm the same length as the right one?
Yeah, the screw is completely in. Jmuck is probably right, the top plate may be out of whack.
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Old 05-22-2011 | 12:20 PM
  #2920  
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Originally Posted by Pointy71
Was in the B4/T4 thread until I found the FT one

Copy/paste from the other thread:

[I][B]I'm thinking of getting a B4.1 and I'm contemplating what esc/motor combo to use.

Just went through the 10 last pages but did not find much (unlike the RC8 thread where there's a lot of talk about esc/motor combo's).

17.5 was mentioned a few times. Once even called FAST! which surprised me somewhat. Someone had 10.5. Another was a 3500Kv which should be about 13.5.

I'm confused... It does not all sound that fast. I don't race but bash with friends on a medium size track. I have a SC10 on 3800kv and a Hyper 10SC (4wd) on 4800kv. Also use a RC8e with 2050kv (4s) on a bigger track. In short; I like my cars fast.:
If you want to stay in the controllable range on a track, 8.5 is about as far as I would go. If you just want silly fun, you can strap in a 6.5 or less I suppose. I use a 6.5 in my b44, but rarely get WOT. With timing advance and boost options, a 17.5 can be quite fast, but probably not the "fast" you are looking for. I ran a Novak Ballistic 8.5 in my B4 a while back, but it took a lot of throttle management when the track was not hooked up.
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Old 05-22-2011 | 01:48 PM
  #2921  
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Originally Posted by Asharus
Yeah, the screw is completely in. Jmuck is probably right, the top plate may be out of whack.
I spoke too soon, the long screw (securing the servo saver onto the top plate) was NOT completely screwed in. It must've backed out after a crash. I didn't notice until I took it apart today. Now it's straight. Thanks!
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Old 05-23-2011 | 04:08 AM
  #2922  
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Default rear shocks

i am running 25 wt oil with silver springs on low bite clay, my car was pretty hooked but would running the defualt green spring benifit? i also added a lipo ballast..
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Old 05-23-2011 | 03:00 PM
  #2923  
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im figuring the oring in the shock is a 006 size?
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Old 05-23-2011 | 03:29 PM
  #2924  
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Pardon the n00bish question, I just havn't run into this in the past.

Swing Weight.

At what point does the motor position become a problem? I kept hanging teeth until I got the power/temp I was looking for. I ended up at 28/81 (the larger of the two kit spurs) with an X12 13.5 (still coming off the track @ 130-140*). The motor is all the way back and Im not sure if its in my head (or hands for that matter), but the car feels like it's lost something. It could be changing track conditions, but my main question is with it so far back, should I look at running a smaller spur to get the motor more forward?
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Old 05-23-2011 | 03:44 PM
  #2925  
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Drop $10 on a smaller spur and some pinions and see what you come up with.
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