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Old 05-11-2011 | 02:55 PM
  #481  
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We can complain.



Ok, I'm a noob with shock bladders and bleeders...

Are the bleeders just to allow excess oil to leak out while screwing the cap on? Is the port closed when the cap is tight or can that screw leak while running?
Does that little screw have any pressure on it after the cap is tight?

The manual was not clear on this and just assumed I knew something I didn't.
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Old 05-11-2011 | 03:09 PM
  #482  
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Originally Posted by BlueGlowBoy
I think it's more for keeping the dirt out, rather than waterproofing it. The ESC/Servo/Transponder are all more-or-less sealed units. Your RX has great big gaping holes that let all the little crud get inside...I've been told that depending on what the crud is made out of, it can lead to radio glitching... not sure how much that still applies with 2.4GHz....

And FASST RXs are the same price as transponders...
I can attest to the glitching you mentioned. That used to happen to me regularly, until I put my spektrum receiver in it's own "environmental control box". I received that suggestion from an engineer who works for spektrum actually. He mentioned that you'd be surprised how conductive the debris that collects in your receiver can be, especially if they're silicates (ie sand). So I just borrowed a receiver box from an old GT and mounted it on my SC10.
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Old 05-11-2011 | 03:11 PM
  #483  
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well, the UPS came with my SC10 4x4!

with the various diff fluids being used, I am wondering where to start for conditions out here. For the non-hard packed loose tracks, any recommendations other than 5-5?
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Old 05-11-2011 | 03:16 PM
  #484  
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Originally Posted by Cain
so, the swaybars appear to be necessary, but, what conditions are people seeing that they need them? Anyone try the truck yet in a loamy setting?

Also, has anyone try other brands of swaybars to see what fits?

I agree, i wish they had included some swaybars, but nothing we can do about that now.
it looks like the sway bars from the FT SC10 might work. the problem I see with most existing bars is the center section is too narrow.
http://www.nitrohouse.com/p23930/FT-...duct_info.html these might work, but then you need to make a mount and buy some linkage.
from the looks of the mounting surface on the 4x4 I am guessing that there will be some sort of block with a groove to capture the swaybar and a hole to screw it down to the mounting surface.
I think the mounting block would be easy enough to make yourself if you had some small aluminum on plastic bar stock, you could file a groove to capture the swaybar and drill a hole to screw it down.
edit; here are the sway bar mounts from the AE TC6, I imagine they'd be something like this http://order.aeteam.net/product_deta...Itemcode=31264

just a thought

Last edited by RacerMike42; 05-12-2011 at 08:28 AM.
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Old 05-11-2011 | 03:30 PM
  #485  
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
Same as 2wd... use gravity.

Tip car on side, shaft pointing down.
Set slipper pad on inner half of spur, Push up and into place...
While holding spur in place, flip car so shaft points up....
Set other slipper pad and plate on and tighten.
Or put a small dab of shoe goo on the back of the pad to get it to stick. Peels off pretty fairly easy when you need to replace the pad. The down side however, is that you can't just can't flip'um and use the other side without peeling it off the pad.
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Old 05-11-2011 | 03:31 PM
  #486  
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
Ok, I'm a noob with shock bladders and bleeders...

Are the bleeders just to allow excess oil to leak out while screwing the cap on? Is the port closed when the cap is tight or can that screw leak while running?
Does that little screw have any pressure on it after the cap is tight?

The manual was not clear on this and just assumed I knew something I didn't.
Yes.

It can leak, make sure screw is tight.
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Old 05-11-2011 | 03:32 PM
  #487  
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
Same as 2wd... use gravity.

Tip car on side, shaft pointing down.
Set slipper pad on inner half of spur, Push up and into place...
While holding spur in place, flip car so shaft points up....
Set other slipper pad and plate on and tighten.
That's the way I do it.
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Old 05-11-2011 | 03:33 PM
  #488  
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Originally Posted by W1KK3D
As this is my first venture into 4WD, what would you recommend for a motor? .
Check the first post of this thred for motor recommendations.
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Old 05-11-2011 | 03:40 PM
  #489  
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HOW DOES IT RUN?

Last weekend, I worked on one. It was a team guy. Who was busy running a race, that had 160 entries. Basically, he threw it together just to get it out there. Diffs had 5000. Everything else was box stock. SXX Speedo. 7.5 540 motor. Outdoor track, 150X70. Packed, dry dirt.
Truck looked good. Had a tricky triple-double section. Went thru perfect. He had zero practice laps. Ran one qualifier. And qualifyed 2nd in the A. Didn't run the main. There will be a lot more of them run this weekend. Have faith.
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Old 05-11-2011 | 03:47 PM
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we are hearing good things about them. We moved a lot of them this week and only have a couple left. And it looks like it will be awhile before we get more according to AE.

everyone that has received them, have sent back positive results in there tests...

they may have a winner.
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Old 05-11-2011 | 03:51 PM
  #491  
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what are the pros and cons using a 540 motor
I will be using a 540 5.5
I would assume the sc10 4wd does not need more torque since it is belt driven without a center diff hence more efficient
the engineering is impressive, thinking out of the box, we will see in the next few months if it is structurally good for racing

will a 540 last 10 mins main? Did Maifield use a 540 in the cactus classic and still not finish the 10mins mains?
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Old 05-11-2011 | 03:53 PM
  #492  
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Any Team drivers have the bars that can take pictures of what the factory ones look like?
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Old 05-11-2011 | 03:54 PM
  #493  
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Originally Posted by DRRC
what are the pros and cons using a 540 motor
I will be using a 540 5.5
I would assume the sc10 4wd does not need more torque since it is belt driven without a center diff hence more efficient
the engineering is impressive, thinking out of the box, we will see in the next few months if it is structurally good for racing

will a 540 last 10 mins main? Did Maifield use a 540 in the cactus classic and still not finish the 10mins mains?
good question
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Old 05-11-2011 | 03:58 PM
  #494  
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Originally Posted by Chris Jarosz
The manual is incorrect. You will want to run the ballstud on the outer hole in the front.

It should sound almost like you're tightening a zip tie extremely fast.

As for the shimming, what do you mean you had to shim it to not throw the pin? I am a bit confused.
Yea, clicker cracks me up! I have to go hit the track for a pack to see how it sounds and feels! Start he adjusting I'm guessing. Lol. And good example you had 2, sounds just like a zip tie...lmao

Originally I had my cvd's loosely I'n. Thought I had the pins/hex's on, almost sure I did. Anyway, it threw both rear pins almost out when I hit the throttle. I was just checking mesh, and makin sure belt sounded ok. Got 1 shim I'n rear tho, 2 I'n front. Much tighter an helps w the pin issue...

Awesome truck. I will let u guys know how it runs. I'm Rollin that way....-). I appreciate the very helpful info fellas...
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Old 05-11-2011 | 03:59 PM
  #495  
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Originally Posted by CraigV
Yes.

It can leak, make sure screw is tight.
What about the other questions?

The reason I ask is because I can't tighten these bleeder screws much without the tiny oring squirting out.
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