Got about half a gal on my b5. Have about 1mm gap (without insert) and both needles dang near flush (maybe a quarter turn in). Still running on the sluggish side, well I check my plugs and I pulled it and it was dang near bone dry (very small amount of residue) Weird.

Been keeping it pretty hot (220) and have been cycling it like usual. Any richer and it barely moves.

Just thought it was weird. Using sport blend fuel for the first gallon

why are you using sport blend fuel for the first gallon?

it's a clocked B5. Neil recommends breaking the engine in with a higher oil content like a sport blend. I do this as well for break in's. So really not "the first gallon", more like for break'in. When i can turn the flywheel over by hand when it's hot and no metal pinch, i usually switch.

hmm odd as I always thought a high oil content usually yeilds hotter temps...but to each his own Neil knows what he is doing so it must be good.

it does. Oil holds heat, but it gives added lubrication for breakin.

less oil means cleaner burning. And less oil to trap the heat.

fried turkey anyone?

Strange as it may sound, it works Great.

You might want to double check things because I'm not sure how you could possibly have an engine set so rich that it barely moves and at the same time have the engine running at 220 degrees. To me this seems a bit of a contradiction but you are heat cycling your engine which is something that I never do so who knows what you got going on there lol!

Hi guys,

The screw for the (TL21-140013) carburetor retainer managed to back out on me during the break-in process. Can someone confirm the screw type and size? I think it's a cap screw but have wanted to know the exact size to get.

BTW should I thread lock this screw? I've never had this back out on me on other engines.

Thanks.

no. You misunderstood. It's running great at 220, the full potential is obviously not there because it is not fully broken in. I am a big believer in plug reading, well my plugs were a little to dry for my liking, so if i richened it up a couple hours, temps would drop down well below 2 hundred and become very slugish.

But no it's running great, the plugs are really not that concerning to me, as they show no signs (other then being dry) of being lean. And after half a gallon, i popped the head off and took a peak and there was Lots of oil in there. So all is well, did not mean for the confusion.

I have broken in probably a dozzen motors and this one is going really well. But i will say this engine is VERY tight. Going to take a full gallon i am afraid to get it fully broke in.

I tend to be overly cautious sometimes, if i write something that is a bit looney, just realize who is writing it

i have never seen a Werks motor take that long to break in. they are by far the easiest motors i have ever broken in. just ran mine this weekend and it was running very strong and come off the track at 214. outside temp of about 60.

How and when are you reading the plugs? Because the only proper way to use plug color to check tune is to install a fresh plug make one pass shut it down and pull the plug to check it without allowing it to idle at the end of the pass etc, otherwise it is not accurate?

for some reason this is confusing people. Dry plug = leaner side, wet plug = richer side.

also detonation on the headbutton and piston head is a giveaway as well.

Just to be clear a dry plug does not necessarily mean a lean condition, it is indicative of optimum power.

are you one of those 3 gallon people?

J/K

i have broken in many engines, i know what a tight engine is and this one is tight. It is not a bad thing per se, just take longer to break in, i have had vspec that were unbelievably tight more so then this, turn around and the next one is broken in after several tanks.

I am several tanks away from a race tune. Put the full tune on to early and in my experience has significantly reduced engine life. That break in method that is at the top of the forrum i tried once and i was disappointed with how long my motor last. If i do it my way and get more gallons out of my motors. I know what works for me and i got tired of doing it this way or that way because someone said it's better.

Because some of the time it turns out NOT to be better, they just don't realize it until later. Not saying anyone is right or wrong, but their not going to jump on a forrum and post that are they?

It really is common sense in RC.

to break in? No. To fully wake up? maybe/probably

I have found pretty much all engines take at least a full gallon to wake up and stabilize... even engines I hand lap to a looser fit will still not show their true nature till about one gallon..... Some really tight engines wont shine till 2 to 3 gallons have passed thru........IMO there is nothing wrong with running an engine for a gallon before it is raced, gives you time to get accustomed to the engine and gives the engine time to stabilize......Usually guys who take it slow have less headaches then guys who take it to a race on tank 3......But not everyone has the luxury of a slower breakin.......Also should be noted is breakin time can vary greatly depending on the type of fuel used..