hmm getting a box with a shiny pro would be very prosuasive

i want to protect the cooling head. Any ideas?

And before anyone says it, i will try not to flip

Well the first night out with the new B5 2013 went pretty good I was able to get a good tune on the engine and it ran great through practice and the night of racing. Engine felt strong and did sound pretty pissed off as well. The engine had a smoother power delivery than I expected wich was a nice surprise I ran it on the rich side most of the night but it seemed to be happier this way anyways.
As for the results they could have been better however I am running a used truggy and come to find out I bought someones problems not their race truck but anyways I have another truggy waiting to be built. The race night went like this but also keep in mind I only had 5 laps with the truck before tonight and I have not even gone through the shocks or diffs.
First qualifier
I had a couple of bobles on lap one but quickly moved into 1st by the end of the 2nd lap and held the lead the rest of the qualifier setting the fastest qualifying time of any class the entire night by more than 10 seconds.
Second qualifier
I jumped out to the lead right from the start and stayed there until a truck failier put out of the race.
Main
I started in TQ position and had a clean start and ran clean laps giving me a pretty convincing lead of close to 10 seconds at around the 6 minute mark where I again had a truck failure ending my night.

As for the engine I am very happy the engine does everything I asked of it and made fast laps very easy to repeat.

There is one area I still need a small amount of help with however and that is still the idle and LS needle setting I have what I believe is between .5 and 1.0mm idle gap but the idle seems extremely picky as I warm up the truck and have a good steady idle but I cant get the truck to warm past around 150 or less without making laps on the track so I run a few and get everything up to temp and I pull in to check temp and the car has a very high idle lean sound to it ( ding ding ding) sound you all know the one lol so I richen the LS by an hour or less and it then seems overly rich with a very low idle. First thought would be that the engine is very hot causing the lean sounds however the engine temps most of the night where around 205 to 210.

Let me know what you think I can do to make it run even better than it already does and thanks again to all that helped me get a better understanding of the tuning basics.

3-4 small black zip ties should blend ok or white to make it stand out.

what plug are you running "now" once you are in the zone of a perfect tune 1 hr. adj. are HUGE...just nudging the needles is all it takes and what I mean is putting the screw driver in the slot and barley even turning them almost to the point of where you think you did not even move the needle but in fact you did lol.

does the truck idle high then come down to a lower idle? we call this a 2 stage idle in the nitro world if so then your LS is actually rich yet and the idle gap is to big I know makes no sense at all.

-Ryan

I agree, but for some reason on my B5 if my idle/LS/HS combo is at traditional settings i get a crazy almost out of control lean rev but this only happens when the tank hits about 3/4 empty, I know that there can be many other things that cause this but I have definately narrowed it down to the motor. high alltitude here in CO may be a factor but I am not sure, only way I found to fix this is to run some first timer settings, running a rich bottom and a tad leaner top, I know this sounds crazy but thats what works to keep it consistant threw the whole tank. I am sure that i will get some slack about my post but i know 5 of my good buddies here that are running B5's that will agree. Im am not doggn on the motor because these things rip im just sayn thats how it is

I am running the OS p3 plug and I have tried the tiny adjustment and same result. As for the question does it high idle then drop I could not tell you for sure because it does the crazy high lean idle and I try to make the change ASAP maybe within 5-8 seconds but going from crazy lean idle I just adjust rich 1/4 hour and it drops to lower than I like close to dieing.with this said the too large of idle gap is highly possible as I am not sure of the gap but I would say the change that it is too big is much higher than it being too small so I will start there.

could you take a picture with the air filter off so we can see your idle gap? like a pic down the venturi at idle

amain finally got werks plugs in, so i put the items that i needed in the cart, went to go do something for just a minute and just like that they are backordered again. I asked around about orion plugs (#6 in particular), and the concensus was that they would work very well with this engine.

Picco's too but they are the most expensive plug on the market (darn good plug though)

So is orion #6 and werks #6 the same thing? Same company? I saw this question asked earlier, but no answer. really, i am just curious more then anything.


btw, I absolutley LOVE this motor.

Plugs are the same as the engines, we specify exactly how we want them built and that is how they are made. So the honest answer is that I have no idea. Either way though a- mains ordering system is automatic so if they are out of stock on an item a PO is automatically generated for us. We sent them I think it was 2 or 3 shipments of plugs last week and have more #6 plugs in stock here. So if they have indeed already entered all of the shipments that they received from us last week (which is doubtful, so they may have more plugs just sitting in receiving) and are showing out of stock just back orde them as they will order automaticaly from us. We are a next day delivery to them via ups ground so you are looking at a 1 day delay worst case scenario.

Here is a quick picture of my idle gap without the insert in let me know what you think.

http://s1089.photobucket.com/albums/...t=IMAG0125.jpg

way to big of a gap ,it should be half that size,richen your top two hours and lean the bottom 2 hours ,and start from there

+1 About half of that. Once you get your idle gap set right you shouldn't have to touch it again. If your idle is to low lean the bottom, if it's to high richen the bottom. Don't adjust any of your settings until the engine is completely warmed up. When you first start your engine it should be a little bit rich as it warms up it will get leaner. I'm not expert by any means just trying to help.

I dont think that is to big you are seeing a big gap but look at it again he doesnt hae a venturi in it. When the venturi is in it i bet 1/2 to 3/4 of that gap will be gone.

Also on another note, I can see your clutches in the picture. You have the bell shimmed to far forward, which means you need to shim it more from behind the flywheel.