Lapping the Piston/Sleeve
#46
So then really your just fine grinding the pistons for a blue printed fit and finish?, with a polished final surface finish?
You previous description of lapping the pistons were of a honing method/motion, which is why I assumed you were after some sort of cross hatched fine finish on the pistons.
My mistake then I guess, I just assumed you were doing something more than just basic engine blueprinting, I'm sure the language barrier is not helping in that matter.
You previous description of lapping the pistons were of a honing method/motion, which is why I assumed you were after some sort of cross hatched fine finish on the pistons.
My mistake then I guess, I just assumed you were doing something more than just basic engine blueprinting, I'm sure the language barrier is not helping in that matter.
#47
Originally posted by Bishop
So then really your just fine grinding the pistons for a blue printed fit and finish?, with a polished final surface finish?
You previous description of lapping the pistons were of a honing method/motion, which is why I assumed you were after some sort of cross hatched fine finish on the pistons.
My mistake then I guess, I just assumed you were doing something more than just basic engine blueprinting, I'm sure the language barrier is not helping in that matter.
So then really your just fine grinding the pistons for a blue printed fit and finish?, with a polished final surface finish?
You previous description of lapping the pistons were of a honing method/motion, which is why I assumed you were after some sort of cross hatched fine finish on the pistons.
My mistake then I guess, I just assumed you were doing something more than just basic engine blueprinting, I'm sure the language barrier is not helping in that matter.
On sleeve yes it is neccessary polishing surface, but piston never polish it, the surface from grinding is realy good. Lapping is for only repair tight fit ( when it comes from factories overtight).
I did many of factory made engines lapped and it is realy proven over the last 10 month, that life of P/S set 30-40 % longer, brak in period just one tank ( 30% open throtel reach), no conrod change after brak in etc.
So we can call lapping as correctin action, but not primary. If manufacturers will make fit right initialy, it will be totaly different pictures in power, life etc.
#48
I suppose a fair few "budget" engines could benefit from it then, with the process making up for a lower overall build quality in general.
I have noticed that lower end RC engines do tend to recommend a longer break in cycle than higher spec models, meaning they probably do have to make up for worse original factory fitted spec parts.
I think I may be pulling apart the next RC Nitro engine I buy, just to see just how close the factory tolerance is.
I think I may even pass on the specs of that lapping tool of yours to an engineering friend of mine, could be handy to have something like that around to experiment with.
I have noticed that lower end RC engines do tend to recommend a longer break in cycle than higher spec models, meaning they probably do have to make up for worse original factory fitted spec parts.
I think I may be pulling apart the next RC Nitro engine I buy, just to see just how close the factory tolerance is.
I think I may even pass on the specs of that lapping tool of yours to an engineering friend of mine, could be handy to have something like that around to experiment with.
#49
Originally posted by Bishop
I suppose a fair few "budget" engines could benefit from it then, with the process making up for a lower overall build quality in general.
I have noticed that lower end RC engines do tend to recommend a longer break in cycle than higher spec models, meaning they probably do have to make up for worse original factory fitted spec parts.
I think I may be pulling apart the next RC Nitro engine I buy, just to see just how close the factory tolerance is.
I think I may even pass on the specs of that lapping tool of yours to an engineering friend of mine, could be handy to have something like that around to experiment with.
I suppose a fair few "budget" engines could benefit from it then, with the process making up for a lower overall build quality in general.
I have noticed that lower end RC engines do tend to recommend a longer break in cycle than higher spec models, meaning they probably do have to make up for worse original factory fitted spec parts.
I think I may be pulling apart the next RC Nitro engine I buy, just to see just how close the factory tolerance is.
I think I may even pass on the specs of that lapping tool of yours to an engineering friend of mine, could be handy to have something like that around to experiment with.
I sugest to use lapping compaund 1500 grid, never use diamond base compaund, use silicon carbide oil based.
#51
Originally posted by Bishop
Actually, my engineering friend owns and runs a machine shop, which is kind of what I meant when I said I'd take the specs/pics to him.
Actually, my engineering friend owns and runs a machine shop, which is kind of what I meant when I said I'd take the specs/pics to him.
#53
Originally posted by nitrodude
You do have a friend with a machine shop Ed.
If you can give me the specs of the laping tools that would be great. I want to make me one.
You do have a friend with a machine shop Ed.
If you can give me the specs of the laping tools that would be great. I want to make me one.
I will send you set of drawings for lapping tools.
What machines do you have in your shop?




