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Old 04-10-2011 | 01:00 AM
  #2296  
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I quit pushing the antenna tube threw the body on my b4 & now just bend the tube down.
2.4 wire is so short now days , all you need to do ....
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Old 04-10-2011 | 05:26 AM
  #2297  
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To add to the other's comments: the team B4.1 setups tend to have awesome forward traction and off-power steering but the trade-off is a reduction in on-power steering. They tend to reward a more 'point-shoot' style where you basically drive to the apex, use the brakes / inertia to rotate the car as tight as possible to the kerb/pipe and then use the forward traction to accelerate hard down the next straight. This is definitely fast on a track that is tight and has 'sharp' corners (eg 90 deg / 180 deg) but if you try to drive it with a flowing style and get on the power earlier in the corner, it will feel like it understeers badly.

For more flowing tracks (and also bumpy tracks) like we have down here in Australia, Ive found a little extra weight at the front is required. I run 10g at the bulkhead and 10-20g in front of the servo, as well as battery middle or forwards. It helps a lot with on-power steering and keeps the nose planted over the bumps, but loses a little forward traction.

If your track is a typical tight / smooth indoor track, I would stick with the team setup and adjust your style to suit the cars strengths.

Ray


Originally Posted by Bonadona
Ok guys, I need some help. I am running a B4.1 on an indoor hard packed track that's mostly clay. I started with Cav's indoor clay setup and ended up going to silver springs fr and rr. I even tried greens up front but I can't seem to get much on throttle steering. I have tried shortening the rear camber link by moving the ballstud to the outside hole on the bulkhead. I've played with ride heigth and wheelebase. Been through tons of tires and nothing gives. How do you get this thing to steer on power. I can't imagine everyone is having to bump the brakes on every turn like I'm having to do in order to get the car to turn. The car jumps and settles great and I can get right back into the throttle, it just pushes REALLY bad. What am I missing????
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Old 04-10-2011 | 07:46 AM
  #2298  
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Thanks guys, I appreciate all the insight very much. I just figured I was missing something key to the setup.
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Old 04-10-2011 | 04:56 PM
  #2299  
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i noticed alot of guys are running blue springs in front and greens in the rear with #2 pistons all around.im running on a high bite clay track and i ran 32.5 and 30 in the rear as well at 30 all around and 32.5 all around.Truck felt really twitchy and i went back to silver/green with 3/1 pistons and 32.5 and 30 in the rear.what is everyone else running in there t4?
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Old 04-10-2011 | 05:01 PM
  #2300  
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Originally Posted by FantomLeopard
Hmmmmm My antenna broke at the track a little bit ago and I... I've just been letting it run loose in my truck Do I really need to have an antenna that sticks out of the body? Its an indoor track and my radio has a good range.. Am I able to just rap it and leave it under the body? I haven't picked up a receiver for my buggy yet but I was planning on doing it in my B4 too..
I stick the ant wire in the tube, put the tube in the chassis, then take a cig lighter and heat the tube just enough to bend it so it stays inside my body. One less hole in the body.

John
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Old 04-10-2011 | 05:43 PM
  #2301  
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I just use a short antenA tube,maybe 3 inches,my spectrum wire is short
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Old 04-11-2011 | 08:38 AM
  #2302  
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Anyone got the part numbers for the correct Kyosho springs? Good place to get? thanks
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Old 04-11-2011 | 08:49 AM
  #2303  
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I'm picking mine up from Amain.

This is what i'm getting:

KYOW5181-55 Short Orange #55
KYOW5181-60 Short Dark Yellow #60
KYOW5183-03 Long Black #50
KYOW5183-72 Long Cobalt Blue #72

I based this off of the spring comparison chart someone posted on here last week. I just picked some that were close to the brown fronts and green/black rears I usually run. Be sure to strip the paint off so they are stealthy.
Attached Thumbnails RC10B4.1 FT/WC-spring-chart.jpg  
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Old 04-11-2011 | 08:51 AM
  #2304  
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Originally Posted by Quickstang
Anyone got the part numbers for the correct Kyosho springs? Good place to get? thanks
Stormer hobbies has them all in stock.

Dont know the PN off hand, they are describes on stormers site well

Front #55 orange

Rear #60 dark yellow
#65 yellow
#68 dark blue

edit....jmuck posted while I was typing lol
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Old 04-11-2011 | 09:05 AM
  #2305  
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Originally Posted by Quickstang
Anyone got the part numbers for the correct Kyosho springs? Good place to get? thanks
KYOW5181-60 Short Dark Yellow #60
KYOW5183-04-Long Silver Rears #70

Both of these are a little stiffer then the brown/green combo I have been running.

Found them on ebay at stlouis-rc in stock and for good price.
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Old 04-11-2011 | 09:11 AM
  #2306  
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http://www.modrc.com/reference/offroad_springs.php

I found this link that compares and gives part numbers.
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Old 04-11-2011 | 09:31 AM
  #2307  
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Awsome! Thanks much guys! paint stripping will happen!
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Old 04-11-2011 | 09:59 AM
  #2308  
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these springs fit fine on the stock assoc collars?
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Old 04-11-2011 | 10:03 AM
  #2309  
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They are slightly larger diameter but will work with them. This is a pic of Cav's car from the EOS race where he was using K springs.
Attached Thumbnails RC10B4.1 FT/WC-img_4580.jpg  
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Old 04-11-2011 | 10:48 AM
  #2310  
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Im going to order some up. the dragging on the body is something I dont like.
Thanks!
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