3LikesBMI Racing "Copperhead 12" discussion and support
03-17-2011, 10:11 PM
#1728
To me it really depends on the grip levels, I only have access to one carpet track and its next to an indoor off-road track. So the carpet is constently dusty and the grip is low, thus I really like the speed 8hd, second choice is the speed 12, if you have med+ grip levels then the AMR 12 will be good. For asphalt my choice was the speed 12 but no asphalt now so I have'nt been able to try out the AMR.
03-28-2011, 06:35 PM
#1734
I had a much better race day with my CH12 yesterday 
I still think I need a tire change to pink rear 2X pink front but the car was very close. It had a tendency to lose grip on a couple of the right hand corners so I need to take another look at the balance. But overall the car was pretty decent. I ran the servo flat and on the left side of the chassis and really liked how much smoother the car felt. I also ended up decreasing the amount of caster I was running and that helped as well. I found an interesting thing with my shock...when getting the car ready I ran out of time to rebuild the shock so I just set the rear droop with the shock as it was. When setting the droop I noticed I had near 3mm of rear droop which I'm sure didn't help handling either. So I removed the washers I use on the threaded part of the shock to set shock length and set the car to the right droop. Then later in the race day I got a chance to rebuild the shock and ended up having to put the washers back in to get the right shock length. The only thing I can think of is that I am not always getting the bottom part of the shock back on the shaft the same way length every time. So just a word to the wise...if you are going to do spring changes or shock rebuilds...make sure your overall shock length hasn't changed!
Also I got to compare running my o-ring mod on the front to not running it. Sometime during my 2nd run the o-ring broke and I didn't even notice. Cut the other o-ring off and ran the rest of the day without them and the car felt the same so it appears there is no detrimental effects that I could detect. As for beneficial effects...well the droop in the front was actual arm movement now instead of play in the pivot balls. I'm not sure if that is worth it or not though. Hopefully I can do some more testing next race.
I still think I need a tire change to pink rear 2X pink front but the car was very close. It had a tendency to lose grip on a couple of the right hand corners so I need to take another look at the balance. But overall the car was pretty decent. I ran the servo flat and on the left side of the chassis and really liked how much smoother the car felt. I also ended up decreasing the amount of caster I was running and that helped as well. I found an interesting thing with my shock...when getting the car ready I ran out of time to rebuild the shock so I just set the rear droop with the shock as it was. When setting the droop I noticed I had near 3mm of rear droop which I'm sure didn't help handling either. So I removed the washers I use on the threaded part of the shock to set shock length and set the car to the right droop. Then later in the race day I got a chance to rebuild the shock and ended up having to put the washers back in to get the right shock length. The only thing I can think of is that I am not always getting the bottom part of the shock back on the shaft the same way length every time. So just a word to the wise...if you are going to do spring changes or shock rebuilds...make sure your overall shock length hasn't changed!Also I got to compare running my o-ring mod on the front to not running it. Sometime during my 2nd run the o-ring broke and I didn't even notice. Cut the other o-ring off and ran the rest of the day without them and the car felt the same so it appears there is no detrimental effects that I could detect. As for beneficial effects...well the droop in the front was actual arm movement now instead of play in the pivot balls. I'm not sure if that is worth it or not though. Hopefully I can do some more testing next race.
03-28-2011, 10:11 PM
#1735
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Hey InspGadet,
Its been awhile since I've been in this thread. for your Front end Mod would you consider making a front sway bar? just a thought.
Its been awhile since I've been in this thread. for your Front end Mod would you consider making a front sway bar? just a thought.
I had a much better race day with my CH12 yesterday I still think I need a tire change to pink rear 2X pink front but the car was very close. It had a tendency to lose grip on a couple of the right hand corners so I need to take another look at the balance. But overall the car was pretty decent. I ran the servo flat and on the left side of the chassis and really liked how much smoother the car felt. I also ended up decreasing the amount of caster I was running and that helped as well. I found an interesting thing with my shock...when getting the car ready I ran out of time to rebuild the shock so I just set the rear droop with the shock as it was. When setting the droop I noticed I had near 3mm of rear droop which I'm sure didn't help handling either. So I removed the washers I use on the threaded part of the shock to set shock length and set the car to the right droop. Then later in the race day I got a chance to rebuild the shock and ended up having to put the washers back in to get the right shock length. The only thing I can think of is that I am not always getting the bottom part of the shock back on the shaft the same way length every time. So just a word to the wise...if you are going to do spring changes or shock rebuilds...make sure your overall shock length hasn't changed!
Also I got to compare running my o-ring mod on the front to not running it. Sometime during my 2nd run the o-ring broke and I didn't even notice. Cut the other o-ring off and ran the rest of the day without them and the car felt the same so it appears there is no detrimental effects that I could detect. As for beneficial effects...well the droop in the front was actual arm movement now instead of play in the pivot balls. I'm not sure if that is worth it or not though. Hopefully I can do some more testing next race.
I still think I need a tire change to pink rear 2X pink front but the car was very close. It had a tendency to lose grip on a couple of the right hand corners so I need to take another look at the balance. But overall the car was pretty decent. I ran the servo flat and on the left side of the chassis and really liked how much smoother the car felt. I also ended up decreasing the amount of caster I was running and that helped as well. I found an interesting thing with my shock...when getting the car ready I ran out of time to rebuild the shock so I just set the rear droop with the shock as it was. When setting the droop I noticed I had near 3mm of rear droop which I'm sure didn't help handling either. So I removed the washers I use on the threaded part of the shock to set shock length and set the car to the right droop. Then later in the race day I got a chance to rebuild the shock and ended up having to put the washers back in to get the right shock length. The only thing I can think of is that I am not always getting the bottom part of the shock back on the shaft the same way length every time. So just a word to the wise...if you are going to do spring changes or shock rebuilds...make sure your overall shock length hasn't changed!Also I got to compare running my o-ring mod on the front to not running it. Sometime during my 2nd run the o-ring broke and I didn't even notice. Cut the other o-ring off and ran the rest of the day without them and the car felt the same so it appears there is no detrimental effects that I could detect. As for beneficial effects...well the droop in the front was actual arm movement now instead of play in the pivot balls. I'm not sure if that is worth it or not though. Hopefully I can do some more testing next race.
03-28-2011, 10:49 PM
#1736
The o-ring mod I did was simply to put tension between the upper and lower arms. The idea behing it is to hold them together tight enough that it takes the play out of the pivot balls so that I can more precisely adjust droop, toe, and camber.
04-01-2011, 09:08 AM
#1738
How much of a gap is everyone running between the uptravel limiters and the lower arm?