Tamiya mini cooper
Tech Elite

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,367
With the above in mind, both bodies are very similar. However, in my hands, the BMW shell is crisper. Maybe if the Cooper S body were run lower, but for me the damn tires rub. However, this discussion may be moot cause the BMW body ha been discontinued.
If anyone has a BMW decal sheet they'd like to sell, PM me please. Thanx.
Hi Guys,
I notice a lot of you have upgraded to the TA-03 ball diff. Any reason that seems preferred over the new M-05 ball diff??? The TA-03 looks to me that most of the parts are plastic. Please tell me which one to get.
Thanks!!!
SoCal
I notice a lot of you have upgraded to the TA-03 ball diff. Any reason that seems preferred over the new M-05 ball diff??? The TA-03 looks to me that most of the parts are plastic. Please tell me which one to get.
Thanks!!!
SoCal
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,549
From: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
And in the rc-mini camp it's a 50/50 split between M03's and M05's for our race cars. With the M03 SWB winning the last couple of big events.

You're right though - working on an M03 is a joy by comparison with an 05/06.
Tech Elite

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,367
No indication from Tamiya that they are discontinuing them any time soon Jim. Still readily available everywhere. And I'm building up a new one at the moment.
And in the rc-mini camp it's a 50/50 split between M03's and M05's for our race cars. With the M03 SWB winning the last couple of big events.
You're right though - working on an M03 is a joy by comparison with an 05/06.
And in the rc-mini camp it's a 50/50 split between M03's and M05's for our race cars. With the M03 SWB winning the last couple of big events.

You're right though - working on an M03 is a joy by comparison with an 05/06.
The exception being carpet or ultra hi-grip asphalt. Since I don't run those 2 surfaces, will not comment.
I got to run the 03 tonight. I'd forgotten what a blast they are to drive. So easy compared to my 05. Not quite as fast as my 04 or 06, however. (we're running on grippy carpet. Overall, it was easy to deal with when I got it a bit sideways, forgiving through the corners...just a blast.
I'm very glad Tamiya is continuing to support the 03. I still may stock up on chassis parts and body posts. Stuff breaks proportionally to my enthusiasm on the driver's stand.
One downside to the evening: I ran a one way diff in it for a few heats and it turned into a demon. Not in a good way. It was still pulling randomly side to side at the end of the straight. Turn in was excellent, if a little unpredictable and power out of the corners was amazing. The power was probably assisted greatly by the 4 slot motor I was running. That thing had me cutting throttle at 3/4 on the back straight, just so I could slow down enough to make the turn, even with a regular diff. Whoo!
Jim
I'm very glad Tamiya is continuing to support the 03. I still may stock up on chassis parts and body posts. Stuff breaks proportionally to my enthusiasm on the driver's stand.
One downside to the evening: I ran a one way diff in it for a few heats and it turned into a demon. Not in a good way. It was still pulling randomly side to side at the end of the straight. Turn in was excellent, if a little unpredictable and power out of the corners was amazing. The power was probably assisted greatly by the 4 slot motor I was running. That thing had me cutting throttle at 3/4 on the back straight, just so I could slow down enough to make the turn, even with a regular diff. Whoo!
Jim
It is good to see that the MO3 and MO5 have supporters. I think with the right setup on either chassis, they will be at the front of the pack.
I agree that the MO3 is easier to wrench on, however I still have a preference for the MO5. I think the MO5 could be a better car, if some of the rules were altered so that you could get rid of the top roll cage and add some flex to the design, however that is not to be.
I will leave it at that, as both chassis types can be seen in the A finals at major events.
Now if only they made a MO7 with a FF03 style chassis, but in mini lengths with the short arms and three body styles we could all be happy.
Calvin.
I agree that the MO3 is easier to wrench on, however I still have a preference for the MO5. I think the MO5 could be a better car, if some of the rules were altered so that you could get rid of the top roll cage and add some flex to the design, however that is not to be.
I will leave it at that, as both chassis types can be seen in the A finals at major events.
Now if only they made a MO7 with a FF03 style chassis, but in mini lengths with the short arms and three body styles we could all be happy.
Calvin.
I agree that the MO3 is easier to wrench on, however I still have a preference for the MO5. I think the MO5 could be a better car, if some of the rules were altered so that you could get rid of the top roll cage and add some flex to the design, however that is not to be.
I thought there was also an updated outdrive, for durability? Or am i thinking of some other car.
Martin,
[QUOTEI am convinced i can run much grippier tyres on an M05 because it is less likely to traction roll, so in my opinion changing our rules to allow more flex would make the M05 faster. But then again the flex may induce the likelihood of traction rolling. ][/QUOTE]
We will not know unless we try and then it becomes a waste of time, except for clubbies.
WRT MO5 Ball Diff, (for SoCalGuy)
It can be built the standard way, if desired, however this does not work with the BL system and the stress we place on the bolt, through tightening.
The only parts in the MO5 diff I replace is to use the MO5Ra steel diff joints,(as the standard alloy ones wear, even with the blade), replace the standard screw with a 2.5mm screw, different thrust bearing and use the TRF 416 screw drilled out and a 2.5mm screw thread applied. Build as per instructions and this can now be built very tight.
The advantage of this is the wear from the universals is way less and you get to run a very tight ball diff.
The other option is to build the TAO 3 ball diff with minimal changes. The diff cups will just require changing as they chew out. You really need to ensure that you don;t let the diff cups come out of the splines or its otherwise history as you will strip the diff. Just replace the o ring with the shortened soft nitro fuel hose, cut so there is no binding. The other option is to make sure you replace the o rings regularly in the diff outdrives and add anti-wear grease to the splines on assembly.
Perhaps we will see a oil gear diff in the future that can be fitted directly to a MO3/MO5 with no modifications necessary. Would be really nice if Tamiya made one for us mini drivers.
Apologies for the long winded post.
Later,
Calvin.
[QUOTEI am convinced i can run much grippier tyres on an M05 because it is less likely to traction roll, so in my opinion changing our rules to allow more flex would make the M05 faster. But then again the flex may induce the likelihood of traction rolling. ][/QUOTE]
We will not know unless we try and then it becomes a waste of time, except for clubbies.
WRT MO5 Ball Diff, (for SoCalGuy)
It can be built the standard way, if desired, however this does not work with the BL system and the stress we place on the bolt, through tightening.
The only parts in the MO5 diff I replace is to use the MO5Ra steel diff joints,(as the standard alloy ones wear, even with the blade), replace the standard screw with a 2.5mm screw, different thrust bearing and use the TRF 416 screw drilled out and a 2.5mm screw thread applied. Build as per instructions and this can now be built very tight.
The advantage of this is the wear from the universals is way less and you get to run a very tight ball diff.
The other option is to build the TAO 3 ball diff with minimal changes. The diff cups will just require changing as they chew out. You really need to ensure that you don;t let the diff cups come out of the splines or its otherwise history as you will strip the diff. Just replace the o ring with the shortened soft nitro fuel hose, cut so there is no binding. The other option is to make sure you replace the o rings regularly in the diff outdrives and add anti-wear grease to the splines on assembly.
Perhaps we will see a oil gear diff in the future that can be fitted directly to a MO3/MO5 with no modifications necessary. Would be really nice if Tamiya made one for us mini drivers.

Apologies for the long winded post.
Later,
Calvin.
Tech Elite

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,367
Tony, this thread was getting a little too quite anyway. Let me start the discussion this way. When we were all running M03s, I was pretty much arse end Charlie around here. I was happy to get into the C Main at a TCS event. Then the M05 was introduced and like everyone else, I ran out and bought one. I am not the sharpest guy around, but it soon became apparant to me that this car was not what it was supposed to be. Of course,I went out and purchased many upgrades to "improve" the beast since I'm not the sharpest guy around. I stuck with the 05 for several months, not being the sharpest guy around, before returning to my "old" and slow M03.
After a few months, it seemed that I was now keeping up with and in some cases running away from some guys who are, I will readily admit, much better drivers than I. Plus, they were using their "fast" M05s and I was still driving my old and "slow" M03. There were many comments of how much my driving had improved. Not being the sharpest guy around, I accepted their accolades and also basked in the glory of how much I had improved in just a few months. Won the B main at the Nationals last year and made the A at the regional this year which really isn't too bad for a 75 year old man with not the greatest eyesight, who's not the sharpest guy around and was driving the same old and slow M03 against many "fast" M05s.
So, not being the sharpest guy around, I've decide to let everyone know that the M03 is the better car for most people. Still, i was smart enough to figure that out.
Tell a better story than that and you can win the discussion.
After a few months, it seemed that I was now keeping up with and in some cases running away from some guys who are, I will readily admit, much better drivers than I. Plus, they were using their "fast" M05s and I was still driving my old and "slow" M03. There were many comments of how much my driving had improved. Not being the sharpest guy around, I accepted their accolades and also basked in the glory of how much I had improved in just a few months. Won the B main at the Nationals last year and made the A at the regional this year which really isn't too bad for a 75 year old man with not the greatest eyesight, who's not the sharpest guy around and was driving the same old and slow M03 against many "fast" M05s.
So, not being the sharpest guy around, I've decide to let everyone know that the M03 is the better car for most people. Still, i was smart enough to figure that out.
Tell a better story than that and you can win the discussion.
Martin,
I would have to say the mini drivers at SMA are the sharpest guy's around. The club has the fastest and close to the most consistant drivers in the mini class.
Me, I'm just sticking to what works for me at present, until the next best thing comes along. Hopefully I will get some time to finish building a new mini and can be among the crowd. Perhaps I should pull a MO3 out of mothballs and have another run with it. For me it comes back to what I feel is comfortable for my driving style or lack there of and how I'm feeling on the day.
I think the sharpest mini driver for car setup is Deniz, who has his car working very well and as you know most of you at SMA are running the MO3L, although I have heard Deniz has started running a short wheel based car.
I will stick to being a middle of the pack driver and work on getting better with more practice and more testing.
Bob,
Sounds like you have found the chassis you like in the MO3. Great to hear that you are enjoying your racing and loving the MO3.
Later,
Calvin.
I would have to say the mini drivers at SMA are the sharpest guy's around. The club has the fastest and close to the most consistant drivers in the mini class.
Me, I'm just sticking to what works for me at present, until the next best thing comes along. Hopefully I will get some time to finish building a new mini and can be among the crowd. Perhaps I should pull a MO3 out of mothballs and have another run with it. For me it comes back to what I feel is comfortable for my driving style or lack there of and how I'm feeling on the day.
I think the sharpest mini driver for car setup is Deniz, who has his car working very well and as you know most of you at SMA are running the MO3L, although I have heard Deniz has started running a short wheel based car.
I will stick to being a middle of the pack driver and work on getting better with more practice and more testing.

Bob,
Sounds like you have found the chassis you like in the MO3. Great to hear that you are enjoying your racing and loving the MO3.
Later,
Calvin.



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