Car settings with the most effect...
02-05-2011, 03:31 AM
#20
I'm asking for 1/8th buggies!!
Which setup changes will have the most impact on handling???
I know that if we use hard-solid rear shocks it will steer like crazy BUT i want to know about small changes that will have the most impact on the handling of the car.
Say i have no steering...which will give me the most noticeable difference at once??
Which setup changes will have the most impact on handling???
I know that if we use hard-solid rear shocks it will steer like crazy BUT i want to know about small changes that will have the most impact on the handling of the car.
Say i have no steering...which will give me the most noticeable difference at once??
02-05-2011, 04:46 AM
#21
Tech Adept
Changes to try, think this list was from JQ
More Overall steering:
Softer front spring
Stiffer rear spring
Thinner front sway bar
Less rear toe in
Add more rear droop
Less Overall steering:
Take above list and do opposite
also try thicker front shock oil
front shock out on arm
These are quick changes you can make between runs. Don't forget about making small changes on your radio (EPA, EXPO Steering/Throttle,) can also make a difference.
More Overall steering:
Softer front spring
Stiffer rear spring
Thinner front sway bar
Less rear toe in
Add more rear droop
Less Overall steering:
Take above list and do opposite
also try thicker front shock oil
front shock out on arm
These are quick changes you can make between runs. Don't forget about making small changes on your radio (EPA, EXPO Steering/Throttle,) can also make a difference.
02-05-2011, 12:51 PM
#22
Tech Adept
Hey guys, when the kit is at full throttle (when turned off), should the carb be 100% open or somewhere like 90% open?
02-05-2011, 01:39 PM
#23
Tech Addict
02-05-2011, 03:14 PM
#24
Tech Master
02-05-2011, 03:22 PM
#25
TLR factory setup tips
Pistons And Shock Oil:
-In the front smaller holes take away turn in and increase mid corner steering. In the rear, smaller holes increase turn in and give more on power rear bite which means less on power steering. Smaller holes jump and land better.
-The problem is the dust. Nothing has traction on dusty surfaces. Try using smaller hole piston/lighter oil combination with the same springs your using now.
-Smaller hole pistons will have more pack which will make the chassis drive flatter around the track. They will also jump better. On really bumpy tracks small hole pistons will stay on top of the bumps and with big hole pistons your car will stay lower through the bumps.
-In the front small pistons take away response, and in the rear the big pistons are to absorb bumps
-Answer from Matt on how to get more side bite: Lighter front oil
-Front-More pack gives you more steering and more responsiveness. Less pack gives you less steering and smoother reaction.
-Rear-More pack gives you more forward traction and side bite. Less pack, just the opposite.
-The heavier your car is dampened the less chassis roll it will have. I feel this creates more stability and easier to drive. Lighter dampening makes the chassis roll. This at times can be good if you are on a track where you need rotation in the turns.
NOTE: Also keep in mind you will want to change your oil to keep up with outside temperature. For example, you practice at 8:00a.m. and its 70 degrees out and your car is dialed. Then you run your first qualifier at 12:00p.m. when the temp gets up to 95 degrees, suddenly your car feels unstable and unpredictable. Up your shock 5wt and your car will back to being dialed. This is something that you want to play with to get a good feel so you know when to increase or decrease your oil and how much to do it by.
Springs And Limiters:
-Buggy front springs work good when using the inside hole on the front arm. This creates a progressive feel and keeps the front end up with such a soft mounting location.
-Front limiters give more on power steering on smooth tracks, but on rough tracks takes away steering everywhere. Washers on both cancel each other out
-Inner limiters control weight transfer. As you move in on the mounting location of the arm, you must limit the shock to equal down travel of a farther out mounting location.
- Softer front springs give less high-speed steering and more low speed and less nose height when jumping. Softer rear springs, give less high-speed side bite, more exit corner steering, less forward bite, less height when jumping.
Anti Squat:
-Stock is 2 deg. less anti squat give more side bite and less forward bite. Vice versa.
Sway Bars:
-Generally, sway bars take away rear traction, which means on high bite tracks they give more on power steering.
Camber Links:
-A longer camber link gives the car less roll in the turns and more forward bite. Making it longer in the bulkhead is similar to moving it up on the inside in giving the wheel less camber change.
-What effect does changing the roll center on the car have, when the camber link is basically kept the same length? Specifically in the front: 3-B vs. 2-A? Answer from Matt: Going in on the front camber link takes away initial steering, making the car easier to drive.
Hub Spacing And Carrier Info:
-If you run the hubs forward it will increase forward bite, but decrease side bite. If you feel the car is too locked-in in the middle of the turn run the hubs forward. If the track gets really bumpy run the hubs back.
-When you raise the spindle it will make the car react faster. When the spindle is down it will smooth out the steering.
-25 degree castor blocks will be smoother going into the turn and have more steering coming out compared to 30 degree blocks.
-Washers under the spindle give the car bump in which makes it less responsive and more forgiving during jumping. Under he bellcrank give it bump out which increases responsiveness.
Tire Stuff:
-The softer the tire is the better a multi stage foam works. Soft tires have soft sidewalls, which roll over in cornering, and the multi stage foams hold the tire up. In firmer compound tires it is not necessary to use a multi stage foam, but can be to an advantage. On a general note, multi stage foam creates more corner speed.
-With foam, run firmer foam on smooth tracks and soft foam on rough tracks.
Shock Location:
-Adam- what is the advantage of changing shock positions from #2 and middle in the arm to #3 still using the middle in the arm in the rear of the XXXT. More forward traction or more side bite? Answer from Adam: Moving from the #2 hole to the #3 hole will make the truck square up faster and give you more forward traction. It will also go through the bumps better.
This info is from various LOSI manuals:
Ride Height:
-Raising the front ride height can cause quicker steering reaction.
Camber:
-Increasing negative camber in the front will increase steering.
-Increasing negative camber in the rear will result in less side bite.
Rear Hub Camber Location:
-Outer hole will make car feel stiffer resulting in straighter acceleration.
-Inner hole will go through bumps better and give feeling of more steering but from the rear end which may be the car swinging around.
Rear Camber Link Length:
-Longer camber link will usually result in more rear traction due to less chassis role.
-Shorter camber link will usually result in more steering from rear end due to increased chassis role.
Washers Under Front Camber Link Ball Stud:
-Less washers makes the steering more aggressive.
Front Camber Link Length:
-Shorter camber link will result in more front end role which increases high speed steering.
-Longer camber link will make the care feel stiffer and have less role.
Front Shock Location:
TOP
-Moving the top of the shock out will result in an increase in steering and the car will react quicker.
-Moving the top for the shock in will slow the steering response time.
BOTTOM
-Moving the bottom of the shocks in will result in more low-speed steering and less high-speed steering and will usually require limiters to limit downtravel (inside shock) and the springs should be changed to a stiffer spring.
-Moving the bottom of the shocks out will reduce overall travel, increase high-speed steering, and reduce low-speed steering.
Rear Shock Location:
TOP
-Moving the top out results in more side-bite.
-Moving the top in results in more forward traction and a softer spring should be used.
BOTTOM
-Moving the bottom in will make car smoother in bumps but reduce stability.
Rear Anti-Squat:
-Less anti-squat will give you more side-bite.
Rear Hub Spacing:
-Spacing the hub back will help on large, high-speed tracks (more traction).
-Spacing the hub forward will help on small, tight tracks (more steering).
Battery Location:
-Moving the battery back will improve rear traction. (Caution: Too far back will cause rear end to swing around)
This info is from RCV:
Need More Steering
• Batteries - Move batteries towards the front of the vehicle.
• Front Shock Mounting - Move the lower shock mount towards the outside
• Front Camber Link - Longer camber links increase steering
• Front Ride Height - Lower the front ride height
• Rear Ride Height - Raise rear ride height for more high speed steering
• Rear Shock Mounting - Move upper mount towards outside
• Wheelbase - Lengthen the wheelbase for more steering
• Rear Toe-in - Decrease rear toe-in
• Ackerman - Use less Ackerman for more sensitive steering
Need More Traction
• Batteries - Move batteries towards the rear of the vehicle (but not too far)
• Rear Ride Height - Lower rear ride height
• Rear Camber - Less camber (0 -1 deg.)
• Camber Link - Longer camber links
• Rear Shock Mounting - Move upper mount towards the inside
• Wheelbase - Shorten the wheelbase
• Rear Toe-in - Increase rear toe-in
• Slipper - Loosen slipper so wheels don't spin as much
Need Better Jumping
• Shock Oil - If bouncing too much or bottoms out over jumps, use heavier oil
• Shock Pistons - If bottoming out over jumps, use smaller hole pistons
• Rear Shock Mounting - If bottoming out over jumps move upper mount towards the outside
• Battery Position - If nose high during jumps, move battery forward, move rearward if nose is down during jumps
• Weight - Add weight to nose if it's too high during jumps
Need More High Speed Steering
• Front Toe - More toe-in gives you more steering coming out of the corners
• Front Caster - Less caster gives you more steering exiting corners
• Rear Ride Height - Raise rear ride height for more high speed steering
More Stable Over Rough Tracks
• Anti-squat - Less anti-squat allows better acceleration on rough tracks
• Rear Camber - More negative camber is more stable on bumpy tracks
• Rear Camber Link - Shorter camber links is more stable on bumpy tracks
• Front Shock Mounting - Move lower shock mount inside for bumpy tracks
• Battery Mounting - Place in the middle for most stable on all tracks
Pistons And Shock Oil:
-In the front smaller holes take away turn in and increase mid corner steering. In the rear, smaller holes increase turn in and give more on power rear bite which means less on power steering. Smaller holes jump and land better.
-The problem is the dust. Nothing has traction on dusty surfaces. Try using smaller hole piston/lighter oil combination with the same springs your using now.
-Smaller hole pistons will have more pack which will make the chassis drive flatter around the track. They will also jump better. On really bumpy tracks small hole pistons will stay on top of the bumps and with big hole pistons your car will stay lower through the bumps.
-In the front small pistons take away response, and in the rear the big pistons are to absorb bumps
-Answer from Matt on how to get more side bite: Lighter front oil
-Front-More pack gives you more steering and more responsiveness. Less pack gives you less steering and smoother reaction.
-Rear-More pack gives you more forward traction and side bite. Less pack, just the opposite.
-The heavier your car is dampened the less chassis roll it will have. I feel this creates more stability and easier to drive. Lighter dampening makes the chassis roll. This at times can be good if you are on a track where you need rotation in the turns.
NOTE: Also keep in mind you will want to change your oil to keep up with outside temperature. For example, you practice at 8:00a.m. and its 70 degrees out and your car is dialed. Then you run your first qualifier at 12:00p.m. when the temp gets up to 95 degrees, suddenly your car feels unstable and unpredictable. Up your shock 5wt and your car will back to being dialed. This is something that you want to play with to get a good feel so you know when to increase or decrease your oil and how much to do it by.
Springs And Limiters:
-Buggy front springs work good when using the inside hole on the front arm. This creates a progressive feel and keeps the front end up with such a soft mounting location.
-Front limiters give more on power steering on smooth tracks, but on rough tracks takes away steering everywhere. Washers on both cancel each other out
-Inner limiters control weight transfer. As you move in on the mounting location of the arm, you must limit the shock to equal down travel of a farther out mounting location.
- Softer front springs give less high-speed steering and more low speed and less nose height when jumping. Softer rear springs, give less high-speed side bite, more exit corner steering, less forward bite, less height when jumping.
Anti Squat:
-Stock is 2 deg. less anti squat give more side bite and less forward bite. Vice versa.
Sway Bars:
-Generally, sway bars take away rear traction, which means on high bite tracks they give more on power steering.
Camber Links:
-A longer camber link gives the car less roll in the turns and more forward bite. Making it longer in the bulkhead is similar to moving it up on the inside in giving the wheel less camber change.
-What effect does changing the roll center on the car have, when the camber link is basically kept the same length? Specifically in the front: 3-B vs. 2-A? Answer from Matt: Going in on the front camber link takes away initial steering, making the car easier to drive.
Hub Spacing And Carrier Info:
-If you run the hubs forward it will increase forward bite, but decrease side bite. If you feel the car is too locked-in in the middle of the turn run the hubs forward. If the track gets really bumpy run the hubs back.
-When you raise the spindle it will make the car react faster. When the spindle is down it will smooth out the steering.
-25 degree castor blocks will be smoother going into the turn and have more steering coming out compared to 30 degree blocks.
-Washers under the spindle give the car bump in which makes it less responsive and more forgiving during jumping. Under he bellcrank give it bump out which increases responsiveness.
Tire Stuff:
-The softer the tire is the better a multi stage foam works. Soft tires have soft sidewalls, which roll over in cornering, and the multi stage foams hold the tire up. In firmer compound tires it is not necessary to use a multi stage foam, but can be to an advantage. On a general note, multi stage foam creates more corner speed.
-With foam, run firmer foam on smooth tracks and soft foam on rough tracks.
Shock Location:
-Adam- what is the advantage of changing shock positions from #2 and middle in the arm to #3 still using the middle in the arm in the rear of the XXXT. More forward traction or more side bite? Answer from Adam: Moving from the #2 hole to the #3 hole will make the truck square up faster and give you more forward traction. It will also go through the bumps better.
This info is from various LOSI manuals:
Ride Height:
-Raising the front ride height can cause quicker steering reaction.
Camber:
-Increasing negative camber in the front will increase steering.
-Increasing negative camber in the rear will result in less side bite.
Rear Hub Camber Location:
-Outer hole will make car feel stiffer resulting in straighter acceleration.
-Inner hole will go through bumps better and give feeling of more steering but from the rear end which may be the car swinging around.
Rear Camber Link Length:
-Longer camber link will usually result in more rear traction due to less chassis role.
-Shorter camber link will usually result in more steering from rear end due to increased chassis role.
Washers Under Front Camber Link Ball Stud:
-Less washers makes the steering more aggressive.
Front Camber Link Length:
-Shorter camber link will result in more front end role which increases high speed steering.
-Longer camber link will make the care feel stiffer and have less role.
Front Shock Location:
TOP
-Moving the top of the shock out will result in an increase in steering and the car will react quicker.
-Moving the top for the shock in will slow the steering response time.
BOTTOM
-Moving the bottom of the shocks in will result in more low-speed steering and less high-speed steering and will usually require limiters to limit downtravel (inside shock) and the springs should be changed to a stiffer spring.
-Moving the bottom of the shocks out will reduce overall travel, increase high-speed steering, and reduce low-speed steering.
Rear Shock Location:
TOP
-Moving the top out results in more side-bite.
-Moving the top in results in more forward traction and a softer spring should be used.
BOTTOM
-Moving the bottom in will make car smoother in bumps but reduce stability.
Rear Anti-Squat:
-Less anti-squat will give you more side-bite.
Rear Hub Spacing:
-Spacing the hub back will help on large, high-speed tracks (more traction).
-Spacing the hub forward will help on small, tight tracks (more steering).
Battery Location:
-Moving the battery back will improve rear traction. (Caution: Too far back will cause rear end to swing around)
This info is from RCV:
Need More Steering
• Batteries - Move batteries towards the front of the vehicle.
• Front Shock Mounting - Move the lower shock mount towards the outside
• Front Camber Link - Longer camber links increase steering
• Front Ride Height - Lower the front ride height
• Rear Ride Height - Raise rear ride height for more high speed steering
• Rear Shock Mounting - Move upper mount towards outside
• Wheelbase - Lengthen the wheelbase for more steering
• Rear Toe-in - Decrease rear toe-in
• Ackerman - Use less Ackerman for more sensitive steering
Need More Traction
• Batteries - Move batteries towards the rear of the vehicle (but not too far)
• Rear Ride Height - Lower rear ride height
• Rear Camber - Less camber (0 -1 deg.)
• Camber Link - Longer camber links
• Rear Shock Mounting - Move upper mount towards the inside
• Wheelbase - Shorten the wheelbase
• Rear Toe-in - Increase rear toe-in
• Slipper - Loosen slipper so wheels don't spin as much
Need Better Jumping
• Shock Oil - If bouncing too much or bottoms out over jumps, use heavier oil
• Shock Pistons - If bottoming out over jumps, use smaller hole pistons
• Rear Shock Mounting - If bottoming out over jumps move upper mount towards the outside
• Battery Position - If nose high during jumps, move battery forward, move rearward if nose is down during jumps
• Weight - Add weight to nose if it's too high during jumps
Need More High Speed Steering
• Front Toe - More toe-in gives you more steering coming out of the corners
• Front Caster - Less caster gives you more steering exiting corners
• Rear Ride Height - Raise rear ride height for more high speed steering
More Stable Over Rough Tracks
• Anti-squat - Less anti-squat allows better acceleration on rough tracks
• Rear Camber - More negative camber is more stable on bumpy tracks
• Rear Camber Link - Shorter camber links is more stable on bumpy tracks
• Front Shock Mounting - Move lower shock mount inside for bumpy tracks
• Battery Mounting - Place in the middle for most stable on all tracks
02-05-2011, 03:34 PM
#26
08-11-2011, 05:00 PM
#27
TLR factory setup tips
Pistons And Shock Oil:
-In the front smaller holes take away turn in and increase mid corner steering. In the rear, smaller holes increase turn in and give more on power rear bite which means less on power steering. Smaller holes jump and land better.
-The problem is the dust. Nothing has traction on dusty surfaces. Try using smaller hole piston/lighter oil combination with the same springs your using now.
-Smaller hole pistons will have more pack which will make the chassis drive flatter around the track. They will also jump better. On really bumpy tracks small hole pistons will stay on top of the bumps and with big hole pistons your car will stay lower through the bumps.
-In the front small pistons take away response, and in the rear the big pistons are to absorb bumps
-Answer from Matt on how to get more side bite: Lighter front oil
-Front-More pack gives you more steering and more responsiveness. Less pack gives you less steering and smoother reaction.
-Rear-More pack gives you more forward traction and side bite. Less pack, just the opposite.
-The heavier your car is dampened the less chassis roll it will have. I feel this creates more stability and easier to drive. Lighter dampening makes the chassis roll. This at times can be good if you are on a track where you need rotation in the turns.
NOTE: Also keep in mind you will want to change your oil to keep up with outside temperature. For example, you practice at 8:00a.m. and its 70 degrees out and your car is dialed. Then you run your first qualifier at 12:00p.m. when the temp gets up to 95 degrees, suddenly your car feels unstable and unpredictable. Up your shock 5wt and your car will back to being dialed. This is something that you want to play with to get a good feel so you know when to increase or decrease your oil and how much to do it by.
Springs And Limiters:
-Buggy front springs work good when using the inside hole on the front arm. This creates a progressive feel and keeps the front end up with such a soft mounting location.
-Front limiters give more on power steering on smooth tracks, but on rough tracks takes away steering everywhere. Washers on both cancel each other out
-Inner limiters control weight transfer. As you move in on the mounting location of the arm, you must limit the shock to equal down travel of a farther out mounting location.
- Softer front springs give less high-speed steering and more low speed and less nose height when jumping. Softer rear springs, give less high-speed side bite, more exit corner steering, less forward bite, less height when jumping.
Anti Squat:
-Stock is 2 deg. less anti squat give more side bite and less forward bite. Vice versa.
Sway Bars:
-Generally, sway bars take away rear traction, which means on high bite tracks they give more on power steering.
Camber Links:
-A longer camber link gives the car less roll in the turns and more forward bite. Making it longer in the bulkhead is similar to moving it up on the inside in giving the wheel less camber change.
-What effect does changing the roll center on the car have, when the camber link is basically kept the same length? Specifically in the front: 3-B vs. 2-A? Answer from Matt: Going in on the front camber link takes away initial steering, making the car easier to drive.
Hub Spacing And Carrier Info:
-If you run the hubs forward it will increase forward bite, but decrease side bite. If you feel the car is too locked-in in the middle of the turn run the hubs forward. If the track gets really bumpy run the hubs back.
-When you raise the spindle it will make the car react faster. When the spindle is down it will smooth out the steering.
-25 degree castor blocks will be smoother going into the turn and have more steering coming out compared to 30 degree blocks.
-Washers under the spindle give the car bump in which makes it less responsive and more forgiving during jumping. Under he bellcrank give it bump out which increases responsiveness.
Tire Stuff:
-The softer the tire is the better a multi stage foam works. Soft tires have soft sidewalls, which roll over in cornering, and the multi stage foams hold the tire up. In firmer compound tires it is not necessary to use a multi stage foam, but can be to an advantage. On a general note, multi stage foam creates more corner speed.
-With foam, run firmer foam on smooth tracks and soft foam on rough tracks.
Shock Location:
-Adam- what is the advantage of changing shock positions from #2 and middle in the arm to #3 still using the middle in the arm in the rear of the XXXT. More forward traction or more side bite? Answer from Adam: Moving from the #2 hole to the #3 hole will make the truck square up faster and give you more forward traction. It will also go through the bumps better.
This info is from various LOSI manuals:
Ride Height:
-Raising the front ride height can cause quicker steering reaction.
Camber:
-Increasing negative camber in the front will increase steering.
-Increasing negative camber in the rear will result in less side bite.
Rear Hub Camber Location:
-Outer hole will make car feel stiffer resulting in straighter acceleration.
-Inner hole will go through bumps better and give feeling of more steering but from the rear end which may be the car swinging around.
Rear Camber Link Length:
-Longer camber link will usually result in more rear traction due to less chassis role.
-Shorter camber link will usually result in more steering from rear end due to increased chassis role.
Washers Under Front Camber Link Ball Stud:
-Less washers makes the steering more aggressive.
Front Camber Link Length:
-Shorter camber link will result in more front end role which increases high speed steering.
-Longer camber link will make the care feel stiffer and have less role.
Front Shock Location:
TOP
-Moving the top of the shock out will result in an increase in steering and the car will react quicker.
-Moving the top for the shock in will slow the steering response time.
BOTTOM
-Moving the bottom of the shocks in will result in more low-speed steering and less high-speed steering and will usually require limiters to limit downtravel (inside shock) and the springs should be changed to a stiffer spring.
-Moving the bottom of the shocks out will reduce overall travel, increase high-speed steering, and reduce low-speed steering.
Rear Shock Location:
TOP
-Moving the top out results in more side-bite.
-Moving the top in results in more forward traction and a softer spring should be used.
BOTTOM
-Moving the bottom in will make car smoother in bumps but reduce stability.
Rear Anti-Squat:
-Less anti-squat will give you more side-bite.
Rear Hub Spacing:
-Spacing the hub back will help on large, high-speed tracks (more traction).
-Spacing the hub forward will help on small, tight tracks (more steering).
Battery Location:
-Moving the battery back will improve rear traction. (Caution: Too far back will cause rear end to swing around)
This info is from RCV:
Need More Steering
• Batteries - Move batteries towards the front of the vehicle.
• Front Shock Mounting - Move the lower shock mount towards the outside
• Front Camber Link - Longer camber links increase steering
• Front Ride Height - Lower the front ride height
• Rear Ride Height - Raise rear ride height for more high speed steering
• Rear Shock Mounting - Move upper mount towards outside
• Wheelbase - Lengthen the wheelbase for more steering
• Rear Toe-in - Decrease rear toe-in
• Ackerman - Use less Ackerman for more sensitive steering
Need More Traction
• Batteries - Move batteries towards the rear of the vehicle (but not too far)
• Rear Ride Height - Lower rear ride height
• Rear Camber - Less camber (0 -1 deg.)
• Camber Link - Longer camber links
• Rear Shock Mounting - Move upper mount towards the inside
• Wheelbase - Shorten the wheelbase
• Rear Toe-in - Increase rear toe-in
• Slipper - Loosen slipper so wheels don't spin as much
Need Better Jumping
• Shock Oil - If bouncing too much or bottoms out over jumps, use heavier oil
• Shock Pistons - If bottoming out over jumps, use smaller hole pistons
• Rear Shock Mounting - If bottoming out over jumps move upper mount towards the outside
• Battery Position - If nose high during jumps, move battery forward, move rearward if nose is down during jumps
• Weight - Add weight to nose if it's too high during jumps
Need More High Speed Steering
• Front Toe - More toe-in gives you more steering coming out of the corners
• Front Caster - Less caster gives you more steering exiting corners
• Rear Ride Height - Raise rear ride height for more high speed steering
More Stable Over Rough Tracks
• Anti-squat - Less anti-squat allows better acceleration on rough tracks
• Rear Camber - More negative camber is more stable on bumpy tracks
• Rear Camber Link - Shorter camber links is more stable on bumpy tracks
• Front Shock Mounting - Move lower shock mount inside for bumpy tracks
• Battery Mounting - Place in the middle for most stable on all tracks
Pistons And Shock Oil:
-In the front smaller holes take away turn in and increase mid corner steering. In the rear, smaller holes increase turn in and give more on power rear bite which means less on power steering. Smaller holes jump and land better.
-The problem is the dust. Nothing has traction on dusty surfaces. Try using smaller hole piston/lighter oil combination with the same springs your using now.
-Smaller hole pistons will have more pack which will make the chassis drive flatter around the track. They will also jump better. On really bumpy tracks small hole pistons will stay on top of the bumps and with big hole pistons your car will stay lower through the bumps.
-In the front small pistons take away response, and in the rear the big pistons are to absorb bumps
-Answer from Matt on how to get more side bite: Lighter front oil
-Front-More pack gives you more steering and more responsiveness. Less pack gives you less steering and smoother reaction.
-Rear-More pack gives you more forward traction and side bite. Less pack, just the opposite.
-The heavier your car is dampened the less chassis roll it will have. I feel this creates more stability and easier to drive. Lighter dampening makes the chassis roll. This at times can be good if you are on a track where you need rotation in the turns.
NOTE: Also keep in mind you will want to change your oil to keep up with outside temperature. For example, you practice at 8:00a.m. and its 70 degrees out and your car is dialed. Then you run your first qualifier at 12:00p.m. when the temp gets up to 95 degrees, suddenly your car feels unstable and unpredictable. Up your shock 5wt and your car will back to being dialed. This is something that you want to play with to get a good feel so you know when to increase or decrease your oil and how much to do it by.
Springs And Limiters:
-Buggy front springs work good when using the inside hole on the front arm. This creates a progressive feel and keeps the front end up with such a soft mounting location.
-Front limiters give more on power steering on smooth tracks, but on rough tracks takes away steering everywhere. Washers on both cancel each other out
-Inner limiters control weight transfer. As you move in on the mounting location of the arm, you must limit the shock to equal down travel of a farther out mounting location.
- Softer front springs give less high-speed steering and more low speed and less nose height when jumping. Softer rear springs, give less high-speed side bite, more exit corner steering, less forward bite, less height when jumping.
Anti Squat:
-Stock is 2 deg. less anti squat give more side bite and less forward bite. Vice versa.
Sway Bars:
-Generally, sway bars take away rear traction, which means on high bite tracks they give more on power steering.
Camber Links:
-A longer camber link gives the car less roll in the turns and more forward bite. Making it longer in the bulkhead is similar to moving it up on the inside in giving the wheel less camber change.
-What effect does changing the roll center on the car have, when the camber link is basically kept the same length? Specifically in the front: 3-B vs. 2-A? Answer from Matt: Going in on the front camber link takes away initial steering, making the car easier to drive.
Hub Spacing And Carrier Info:
-If you run the hubs forward it will increase forward bite, but decrease side bite. If you feel the car is too locked-in in the middle of the turn run the hubs forward. If the track gets really bumpy run the hubs back.
-When you raise the spindle it will make the car react faster. When the spindle is down it will smooth out the steering.
-25 degree castor blocks will be smoother going into the turn and have more steering coming out compared to 30 degree blocks.
-Washers under the spindle give the car bump in which makes it less responsive and more forgiving during jumping. Under he bellcrank give it bump out which increases responsiveness.
Tire Stuff:
-The softer the tire is the better a multi stage foam works. Soft tires have soft sidewalls, which roll over in cornering, and the multi stage foams hold the tire up. In firmer compound tires it is not necessary to use a multi stage foam, but can be to an advantage. On a general note, multi stage foam creates more corner speed.
-With foam, run firmer foam on smooth tracks and soft foam on rough tracks.
Shock Location:
-Adam- what is the advantage of changing shock positions from #2 and middle in the arm to #3 still using the middle in the arm in the rear of the XXXT. More forward traction or more side bite? Answer from Adam: Moving from the #2 hole to the #3 hole will make the truck square up faster and give you more forward traction. It will also go through the bumps better.
This info is from various LOSI manuals:
Ride Height:
-Raising the front ride height can cause quicker steering reaction.
Camber:
-Increasing negative camber in the front will increase steering.
-Increasing negative camber in the rear will result in less side bite.
Rear Hub Camber Location:
-Outer hole will make car feel stiffer resulting in straighter acceleration.
-Inner hole will go through bumps better and give feeling of more steering but from the rear end which may be the car swinging around.
Rear Camber Link Length:
-Longer camber link will usually result in more rear traction due to less chassis role.
-Shorter camber link will usually result in more steering from rear end due to increased chassis role.
Washers Under Front Camber Link Ball Stud:
-Less washers makes the steering more aggressive.
Front Camber Link Length:
-Shorter camber link will result in more front end role which increases high speed steering.
-Longer camber link will make the care feel stiffer and have less role.
Front Shock Location:
TOP
-Moving the top of the shock out will result in an increase in steering and the car will react quicker.
-Moving the top for the shock in will slow the steering response time.
BOTTOM
-Moving the bottom of the shocks in will result in more low-speed steering and less high-speed steering and will usually require limiters to limit downtravel (inside shock) and the springs should be changed to a stiffer spring.
-Moving the bottom of the shocks out will reduce overall travel, increase high-speed steering, and reduce low-speed steering.
Rear Shock Location:
TOP
-Moving the top out results in more side-bite.
-Moving the top in results in more forward traction and a softer spring should be used.
BOTTOM
-Moving the bottom in will make car smoother in bumps but reduce stability.
Rear Anti-Squat:
-Less anti-squat will give you more side-bite.
Rear Hub Spacing:
-Spacing the hub back will help on large, high-speed tracks (more traction).
-Spacing the hub forward will help on small, tight tracks (more steering).
Battery Location:
-Moving the battery back will improve rear traction. (Caution: Too far back will cause rear end to swing around)
This info is from RCV:
Need More Steering
• Batteries - Move batteries towards the front of the vehicle.
• Front Shock Mounting - Move the lower shock mount towards the outside
• Front Camber Link - Longer camber links increase steering
• Front Ride Height - Lower the front ride height
• Rear Ride Height - Raise rear ride height for more high speed steering
• Rear Shock Mounting - Move upper mount towards outside
• Wheelbase - Lengthen the wheelbase for more steering
• Rear Toe-in - Decrease rear toe-in
• Ackerman - Use less Ackerman for more sensitive steering
Need More Traction
• Batteries - Move batteries towards the rear of the vehicle (but not too far)
• Rear Ride Height - Lower rear ride height
• Rear Camber - Less camber (0 -1 deg.)
• Camber Link - Longer camber links
• Rear Shock Mounting - Move upper mount towards the inside
• Wheelbase - Shorten the wheelbase
• Rear Toe-in - Increase rear toe-in
• Slipper - Loosen slipper so wheels don't spin as much
Need Better Jumping
• Shock Oil - If bouncing too much or bottoms out over jumps, use heavier oil
• Shock Pistons - If bottoming out over jumps, use smaller hole pistons
• Rear Shock Mounting - If bottoming out over jumps move upper mount towards the outside
• Battery Position - If nose high during jumps, move battery forward, move rearward if nose is down during jumps
• Weight - Add weight to nose if it's too high during jumps
Need More High Speed Steering
• Front Toe - More toe-in gives you more steering coming out of the corners
• Front Caster - Less caster gives you more steering exiting corners
• Rear Ride Height - Raise rear ride height for more high speed steering
More Stable Over Rough Tracks
• Anti-squat - Less anti-squat allows better acceleration on rough tracks
• Rear Camber - More negative camber is more stable on bumpy tracks
• Rear Camber Link - Shorter camber links is more stable on bumpy tracks
• Front Shock Mounting - Move lower shock mount inside for bumpy tracks
• Battery Mounting - Place in the middle for most stable on all tracks
POST OF THE WEEK..
Great Info that everyone should know and revise when possible..
Thanks for taking the time to type this it will help alot of people..
08-11-2011, 05:54 PM
#28
Hands down....roll centers. Play with these in practice, one hole at a time.
The change is undeniable and immediate.
The change is undeniable and immediate.
08-11-2011, 10:19 PM
#30
some really great Answers.....!!!!!
in short all the answers he was looking for are in the thread...
for the "General Norm"
i did not go through all of them? but i do not think anyone
"Answered His Question"....???
there are Seveal Difinitive answers....
BUT !!!!
Assuming the car is in "It's General Set" for the "DRIVER"
let's take away the track,oils,tires and engines......
yes, yes, we all know all that "Contributes"
but there are 6billion people so you'll get 42 trillion answers...
and Twice as many "Attitudes".....
keep in mind the Suggestions some will give is what
"Worked-or there Interpretation of what works of what worked for Them"
this does not Mean it will or Will Not work for you.
so go by the Recomendation of the Models "Starting set up"
Now,
Camber, Toe Setings and roll centers will have good Noticable "Effects" on cars in "General" and there some of the more
"Simpler" to Quickly ADJUST on the Fly...
"Except Roll-center" maybe the front for some Models.......
the rear however, for Most Models you'll have to re-adjust the camber settings,again this will "Vary for YOUR Model"
to all those, yes ,yes, we all know the other settings have "Effect" as well..
but,
the Camber and toe settings will be the "Easier" to adjust without Dismantaling the car...and the effects of course you'll "Feel" right away...positive or Negitive...
and the next will be the Roll centers....
the other will mostly be "Fine Tuning" to how you drive and will be Indicative to the track you drive on....
those are some of the easier settings with the cars 95% to 99% "Intact"
even still follow what is "Recommended Starting Set Up" for your Model....
then "Tires" for your Given track.......
from there you should be about 90% there
the rest "Confidence" and some practice.......
and of course the 20 Billion recommendations of oils,springs,tires,and ungodly modifications one will hear and read about,that can make any ones head spin...LOL
as many have mentioned the HUDY Manual will help the most for the basics in "General Understanding" it's a great "Primer"
and even BETTER talk to a few of the Fast guys at your track, if they dont wanna help move to the next guy,if they dont wanna help? there not fast "Enough" most of the Quick and Friendy guys been through the "Ringer" so there more Adept to help....
