RC10B4.1 FT/WC
#1442
#1443
I run modified with a 7.5 and I run the normal RS. I doubt that he will be running 5.5 or lower in his truck ever. I doubt that most racers never can't use the extra power you get from anything lower than a 10.5
Getting the RS pro isn't being taken advantage of. Maybe he wanted it so that later on down the line if he wanted to run modified he wouldn't be limited as to what turn motor he could run
#1444
I agree to that. All that extra power down the straight and end up going wide in the next corner you just gained nothing.
#1446
Ok, I think it's time I asked a question, just getting back into offroad & I go ahold of a B4(not a B4.1, but that's neither here nor there). Working on getting to handle better(is still a bit loose on power) & I'd like to add maybe a half degree of rear toe-in, but I'm having trouble making sense of the available rear hubs. I see the FT ones come in 0, .5, 1(& I think 1.5) varieties, but I want to be sure that it means they add that much, or wonder if they give precisely that much toe-in. My car currently has the original molded ones, & I have NO idea what amount of toe those provide(looks like there's a little, but not sure how much). Can you guys help me make some sense of this?
#1447
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 15,739
From: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Ok, I think it's time I asked a question, just getting back into offroad & I go ahold of a B4(not a B4.1, but that's neither here nor there). Working on getting to handle better(is still a bit loose on power) & I'd like to add maybe a half degree of rear toe-in, but I'm having trouble making sense of the available rear hubs. I see the FT ones come in 0, .5, 1(& I think 1.5) varieties, but I want to be sure that it means they add that much, or wonder if they give precisely that much toe-in. My car currently has the original molded ones, & I have NO idea what amount of toe those provide(looks like there's a little, but not sure how much). Can you guys help me make some sense of this?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXZWK3&P=M
#1450
I think its been posted before and I measured it and its true: The new B4.1 standard rear arm carrier (the part that adjusts toe in) has more slightly toe-in than the old B4 standard block even though they are both supposed to be 3 degrees.
If you get a B4, I would recommend getting the B4.1 rear block system first and try the 3.0 block. If that doesnt resolve the loose on power feeling, I would suggest the .5 rear hubs.
This is the new part:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...t-Set-25-335-4
Lastly, you may also want to invest in the ballast weight that fits in front of the transmission.
If you get a B4, I would recommend getting the B4.1 rear block system first and try the 3.0 block. If that doesnt resolve the loose on power feeling, I would suggest the .5 rear hubs.
This is the new part:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...t-Set-25-335-4
Lastly, you may also want to invest in the ballast weight that fits in front of the transmission.
#1451
Rick, saw a shot of you with your rides yesterday on RC Insider. I really like the paint scheme & good luck!
#1453
+1 on the paint jobs. Reminds me of the Porsches of the late 70's early 80's in the Martini colors.
#1454
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 15,739
From: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
I was told AE has not shipped any .1 chassis anywhere. Getting an old chassis in the RTR plastic is as close as you can get and it's a direct fit.




