RC10B4.1 FT/WC
#946
Try moving the shocks inside front and rear for more rotation. Drill the 4th inside hole on the rear tower if you are running the truck.[/QUOTE]
can someone shoot a pic of this mod so I know where to drill and not mess up a tower
thx
can someone shoot a pic of this mod so I know where to drill and not mess up a tower
thx
#947
Tech Regular
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 480
That's what I thought, just wanted to make sure. Tri-Cities is my home track, nice big open track, so I'm not use to the tight indoor tracks. A couple of us went to Portland yesterday to test and tune. I was pushing bad through a tight section that leads to the front stretch, went to the 0.5/2.5toe in, it felt better than the 0.5/3.0, but I was still looking for a little more rotation.
Thanks for the help. I'll see you at the ECT race in December.
Thanks for the help. I'll see you at the ECT race in December.
Inboard toe produces more friction at the outdrive and drive pin. This creates a feeling of more traction and the car will drive quite a bit stiffer. This will allow the car to rotate a little more and have more forward bite at the cost of stability. Also, if you increase inboard toe, gradually move your hubs back as the car gets shorter with the higher angle.
For more rotation I would try these things: shorter wheelbase, higher front ballstud, more antisquat, cvds instead of cvas.
And don't forget to play with ride height, a little change may result in a more drastic difference than expected.
#948
#949
If you have, or can borrow someones spare tower then bolt it up to yours and drill out the new inside(4th) hole. You could also just make an indent, remove the overlaying tower and drill out the new hole.
#954
#956
#960
Tech Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,480
From: Las Vegas, NV
You can also run the longer aluminum upper shock mount, the one thats normally used in the front. This makes it so you don't have to grind the tower and compromise the integrity of it.



