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Old 11-22-2010 | 09:11 AM
  #35146  
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Originally Posted by radio_car_racer
V-Dezign Carpet Ripper 4.0

seems to popular in Europe
Anybody tried lowering the 5 pivot balls by 0.6mm?

Something there doing in Europe on the for V-Dezign CR4 which helps improve the handling. The CR 4 uses the AE pivot balls etc
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Old 11-22-2010 | 05:11 PM
  #35147  
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I need to paint up a few bodies. I've been pretty much just running the protoform amr 12. Do 12th scale bodies affect handling as much as TC bodies? It took me a year, but I finally settled down on a TC body that I like. It took me going through at least 2 of each of the popular bodies. Suggestions?
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Old 11-22-2010 | 05:29 PM
  #35148  
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Yes the body has a big impact on the handleing of the car. Alot depends on the level of grip, here we have a very low grip(dusty) carpet track so I've found that the HD8 is best for my car/style. If the grip is high the CRC bodies and the AMR should be good. You really should try a couple of bodies with no changes to the car and you'll see the differences.
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Old 11-22-2010 | 06:39 PM
  #35149  
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Originally Posted by Funky
I tried searching for this problem, but it is so hard to find specific info in these threads. Sorry if this has already been covered, I figure it has since I have 3 different cars with the same problem

I have a CRC 3.2R, 12R5.1 and 12L4 that all have the same problem keeping the left hub tight on the axle. No matter how hard I tighten the screw in the left hub, it eventually develops a little bit of side-to-side slop which ruins the handling. The faster my lap times are getting, the quicker I am working these left hubs loose.... and it is happening on all three 1/12s I am running Are there any good tricks for keeping the left hub tight on the axle?? The screw is not coming loose and it has always been tight when I checked it, but the hub will eventually move enough to cause ~1mm of play.
I find that the clamping hub's little allen bolt often doesn't do a good job of applying force to squeeze the hub on the axle if the bolt is installed dry. It seems to help if you put a dab of grease on the underside of the bolt's head. Somehow, adding a little lube to this area allows you to get more pulling force on that bolt without straining either the threads in the hub or the allen recess in the bolt. Obviously you don't want any of this lube on the axle or the inside bore of the hub. But some lubricant on the pinchbolt itself does seem to help it to thread in easier and to squeeze the clamping hub tighter on the axle. Since i've been doing this, my clamping hubs have been staying put. Also adding a little lubricant to the bolt seems to help to make both the hub and the little pinchbolt last indefinitely.
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Old 11-22-2010 | 07:00 PM
  #35150  
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Originally Posted by Funky
I tried searching for this problem, but it is so hard to find specific info in these threads. Sorry if this has already been covered, I figure it has since I have 3 different cars with the same problem

I have a CRC 3.2R, 12R5.1 and 12L4 that all have the same problem keeping the left hub tight on the axle. No matter how hard I tighten the screw in the left hub, it eventually develops a little bit of side-to-side slop which ruins the handling. The faster my lap times are getting, the quicker I am working these left hubs loose.... and it is happening on all three 1/12s I am running Are there any good tricks for keeping the left hub tight on the axle?? The screw is not coming loose and it has always been tight when I checked it, but the hub will eventually move enough to cause ~1mm of play.
I think if the hub is not tight it will spin on the axle.

The side, or end play issue you point out is from the bearing, and bearing holders seating into the pod.

Over-tightening of the hub will only loosen the hub on the axle more over time, it does not have to be that tight to do it's job, hence the small screw used to lock it down.

This of course is just from my experience with the R5, perhaps other brands have an issue ?
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Old 11-22-2010 | 07:25 PM
  #35151  
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I think my hub problem was related to a tweak issue. I didn't know how to adjust tweak so when I was setting up the cars, I just screwed down both sides until they looked even Luckily another member on this site explained it to me in a PM and after checking (and fixing) the tweak, I didn't have a problem with the hubs coming loose. All 3 cars were hooking pretty sharp in one direction before fixing the tweak. I think this combined with a ton of traction was slowly working them loose over time. I ran all day sunday and the hubs didn't loosen up once.
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Old 11-23-2010 | 02:39 PM
  #35152  
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Hello

A question regarding tires:

Are BSR tires similar or even equal to CRC?
Particularly pink and magenta

Thanks...
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Old 11-23-2010 | 02:56 PM
  #35153  
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Yes....John @ BSR does the foams for Frank @ CRC.
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Old 11-23-2010 | 08:02 PM
  #35154  
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Originally Posted by chris moore
Yes the body has a big impact on the handleing of the car. Alot depends on the level of grip, here we have a very low grip(dusty) carpet track so I've found that the HD8 is best for my car/style. If the grip is high the CRC bodies and the AMR should be good. You really should try a couple of bodies with no changes to the car and you'll see the differences.
I knew that was coming. Thanks. I'll give a few a shot.
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Old 11-23-2010 | 08:11 PM
  #35155  
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Seriously, if your track doesn't have a lot of grip start with a Parma Speed 8 HD. If you're in the middle try a Protoform Speed 12 or a Parma EE-1, if you have lots of bite go Protoform AMR or CRC R8C. But like Chris said try at least 2 because they are different and you will like one more than the other.
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Old 11-27-2010 | 11:19 AM
  #35156  
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UK 12th Nationals Live

next meeting is Tamworth on 11th & 12th December

In an effort to keep 12th scale racers and followers up to date and in the loop with news and results, the national series will now be covered online.

From the Tamworth national onwards you'll be able to visit pages on Facebook and Twitter to see what's going on if you're not at the meeting!


On the facebook page there will be round by round updates including images of the qualifying lists as well as notable occurrences and things that happen worth mentioning. Following each meeting you'll also be able to see photos, videos and reports from the event.

To access the facebook page, Click Here


Twitter will be used in a similar way, but due to its more basic nature it'll be limited to short text updates on the movers and shakers in each round and the finals.

To access the Twitter page search for '@BRCA12thScale'

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Old 11-27-2010 | 04:32 PM
  #35157  
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Originally Posted by racer357
in this particular case it is the speedo. Version 104 is supposed to rectify the issue that causes him to get pulled out of every corner with a lower start rpm to the speedos timing maniputlation.
Right now the powerband doesn't really come in soon enough.

I know Noavk will get the software dialed in and then he will be right where he needs to be....
I am having the trouble finding the ESC timing and Motor timing so that I can use boost. I also don't really understand the boost from conflicting information I have gotten. Does it come on imediatly after the delay no matter what RPM or go through the timing/RPM ramp set points then boost on. I am under the impression that it comes on no matter what timing or RPM after the set 100-500ms delay. For instance say I have the timing at 40* and a ramp of 2000-4500. It will come on full boost even at 1900RPM if I have exceeded the delay. Do I have it right? IF so then that is just horrible and going full timing all the way through the RPM range is no different than a fixed timing esc. I hope I am wrong but I need to know and I need help. I am running my Kenetic 2s in my 1/12 with a 1s lipo, Ballistic 17.5. 1.66" diameter tires. I bought the Kenetic 2s in case this thing is a joke but would be a suitable esc and an upgrade from the GTB's in the SC10/T4.

Thanks for the help
Jeremiah

Last edited by ThrottleKing; 11-27-2010 at 04:32 PM. Reason: revision
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Old 11-27-2010 | 05:46 PM
  #35158  
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Originally Posted by Funky
I think my hub problem was related to a tweak issue. I didn't know how to adjust tweak so when I was setting up the car.
How do we adjust tweak, I believe my car needs adjusting. Though first I need to replace the standard 12awg wire.
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Old 11-27-2010 | 06:14 PM
  #35159  
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Mark talks about a CRC car here but the principles apply to all:

http://markpayneblog.blogspot.com/se...a%2012th%20Car

These days balancing has almost replaced tweaking. If you balance the car exactly, it should be nearly perfectly tweaked. Which he explains.
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Old 11-27-2010 | 07:26 PM
  #35160  
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t-bar less
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