Dragula426

iTrader: (4)

Lots of questions on esc setup, please check the Tekin site. There are lots of them posted there. The v212 software is almost identical to v208 with some small enhancements. If your changing over from v203, the GUI is vastly different looking, but put your previous settings in and try it. Watch your heat in the motor and go from there. What I like is running a higher start rpm. This creates more torque to get the vehicle moving and for me, dropped my motor temp, and I found more rip.

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

+1

The team setups make a great starting point, you might not even need to make any changes.

evostyle

iTrader: (103)

I would start off with Hara's setup for the IIC.
http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire/ESC...C-IIC-2010.pdf

Quietman

Hi
I have a tekin rs pro with a redline 13.5 it has a decent top end but dont understand what to do for bottom end punch?Gearing is fine but just feels to bog down i have to do a lot of stick movement for it to move then only seems to pull when the turbo kicks in,in the infield when i just want a bit of bottom end torque.
Thanks

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

post your setup

DEIGIMA

i need a set of body posts for my hpi rs4 rally where can i find a set?

Mugen10

iTrader: (9)

I saw the craziest thing last race day. The track we run on is a small carpet track with 45 ft. straight with about 35 ft. wide track. My FDR in TC is about 5.2 and my timing boost is 50 with turbo at 7. My end RPM is 5000 and start is 2800. Which I think the car has very good rip and top end.
The strange thing is another guy had equal and maybe even a bit better and was running totally opposite setup. He was running a FDR of 6.2 and timing boost was 40 and Turbo was max! His end rpm was 20000 and start was like 2500.
So is this normal or is someone running at a disadvantage? Both our timps. are around 120.

Dog Bone

iTrader: (4)

That's the beauty of dynamic timing. You can use the ESC to optimize any gearing setup...and to even fix gearing problems.

Regarding your setup, your gearing is too low, and your start/end RPM's are too close. If you add any more timing, you'll run the risk of overheating the motor due to the very short RPM range where timing is being added.

Based on the FDR, I'm assuming that you're running 17.5's. A more normal setup is to run a FDR of around 6.2 (which I'm running), with a much larger RPM range. I don't have my ESC handy to check, but I think for 17.5, my RPM range is around 10,000 (perhaps a bit less).

If you think about it, it's much easier for the ESC to add timing to a motor that's spinning at a higher RPM, since the inertia of the rotor is very high. If the rotor is spinning slower, the motor has to work that much harder to add the timing, especially if the RPM range is so narrow.

Try it out - as with all things, different things work for different people, and if you have a setup your happy with, go with it. But you'll never know (without doing a bit of testing) if there's something better out there!

Good luck!

Mugen10

iTrader: (9)

Thanks I will give it a try next time. It just sounds so odd. Everything I have read is on a small track you do not want to run much turbo due to it hitting to late. I guess with the shorter gear will allow the RPM to stay higher. Which in return will allow the turbo to kick in faster.

theisgroup

iTrader: (10)

if you are not loosing other racers in the straights or the infield, then i think your setup is right on for you. timing is the best thing since sliced bread. I like to think of it as a compensator for different driving styles and different motors. i am usually very hesitant giving setup advise to any racer that I can not directly see how the track is, how they drive and what their car is doing on the track. for a driver that I don't know at my home track, i usually give them a generic setup and then watch their car around the track and then adjust from there. i have yet to find 2 driver that run the same setup on their speedo and end up with the same laptime.

JR007

THere is no way your car is running optimally with those seconds. I think the only way it's getting by is because it's a small track.
By the time your car is a 1/4 throttle, you've added 50 degrees of timing. That can't be a good thing. I don't think i've seen any pro set-ups under about 12,000 end rpm

Edwin Pibal

iTrader: (1)

dude thats the idea of the start and end rpm to allow for different size tracks

my end rpm is at 11000 for the CMR track, but if i ever go back down to your neck of the woods ill crank that up!

ed

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

I think it depends on the driver's throtle finger. I run at Speedworld Raceway which has the longest straight in Northern cali and my start/end RPM is 2960/9000 and I TQ'ed and won a couple of times running this set up with 45 boost and 10-14 on turbo. Straight is 120ft. Every driver drive's differently and what works for some may not work for others. I am going to try Hara's iiC set up on asphalt the next time out. My redline 17.5 has so much bottom end that I'm sure I can produce the same end results with the different RPM range. I love my tekin

Tomasb

iTrader: (2)

Hey Guys

I'm running a RS in a 12R5.1 powered by a Epic Duo2 1S. Just installed the latest software & need a good starting point/esc/setting any help would greatly be appreciated

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

My crystal ball must be broken
What wind is your Epic2 ?
What is the track size, surface ?

You could also check the Team Tekin Hotwire Driver Setup page.