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Old 11-12-2010 | 03:00 PM
  #35131  
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Originally Posted by adam lancia
I know this is a very specific long shot but I'm going to ask anyways. Does anyone have a T-bar car setup with a 1s NON-saddle pack LiPo, LRP SPX and a 1s LiPo Rx pack? If so, could you please post a pic for me? I'm struggling with how to lay everything out on my chassis. It's an L4 with the main pack on the right side. Thanks in advance!
Bueller....?
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Old 11-12-2010 | 03:48 PM
  #35132  
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Questions??

I have a neube question......

I just got a RC12R5 My First carpet car....
and the setup that was recommended to me has the front wheels set at 2 degrees camber.
I also just got an Ofna tire truer,
which has adjustments for angle cuts up to 2 degrees

BUT I was told that I should cut my front tires straight not at an angle,
Is that the "accepted" wisdom??????

It just seems to me that I would get better contact, increased traction & longer tire wear if I cut them at an angle.

So is it straight or angle????????
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Old 11-12-2010 | 03:52 PM
  #35133  
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The 4-dot (****) timing on the LRP X-12 motors, anyone know what actual number that works out to be? Also what about these 1s rotors, are you guys adding more teeth to the pinion with them/what are you guys rollout with them on a 90' X 45' track?
One more question- with running spec (no boost) classes, is it a good idea to run close to maximum motor endbell timing?
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Old 11-12-2010 | 04:41 PM
  #35134  
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Originally Posted by silversam
I have a neube question......

I just got a RC12R5 My First carpet car....
and the setup that was recommended to me has the front wheels set at 2 degrees camber.
I also just got an Ofna tire truer,
which has adjustments for angle cuts up to 2 degrees

BUT I was told that I should cut my front tires straight not at an angle,
Is that the "accepted" wisdom??????

It just seems to me that I would get better contact, increased traction & longer tire wear if I cut them at an angle.

So is it straight or angle????????
cut them with no taper. in gross terms the camber is set to get even tire wear. think contact patch condiiton in the corner, with caster camber and body roll combined. people do finetune for driving style but if they get very uneven wear then things are likely off elsewhere.
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Old 11-12-2010 | 05:16 PM
  #35135  
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Originally Posted by adam lancia
Bueller....?
Just substitute a receiver pack for the booster.





this works but the car will be better with a saddle pack
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Old 11-12-2010 | 06:57 PM
  #35136  
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Originally Posted by PDX-Spike
No, the point is, you still haven't answered my original question.

"Are you absolutely certain that this product [LiPo receiver pack] is better than a LiFe? If so, tell us why it is better"

Why would someone choose a LiPo, along with the extra hardware that is needed on many systems, instead of a LiFe? Don't say it's because you need a different charger. My LiFe charges just fine with my LiPo charger.
If you want a faster transit time from your servo while maintaining linearity, get the lipo.
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Old 11-12-2010 | 11:21 PM
  #35137  
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Originally Posted by JayBee
The 4-dot (****) timing on the LRP X-12 motors, anyone know what actual number that works out to be? Also what about these 1s rotors, are you guys adding more teeth to the pinion with them/what are you guys rollout with them on a 90' X 45' track?
One more question- with running spec (no boost) classes, is it a good idea to run close to maximum motor endbell timing?
Anyone? Bueller?
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Old 11-12-2010 | 11:25 PM
  #35138  
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Originally Posted by odpurple
Just substitute a receiver pack for the booster. this works but the car will be better with a saddle pack
Thanks OD, that's just what I needed to see to get the wiring sorted. I know the saddle packs are the correct choice with a T-Bar car but as I'm on a budget and 2 LiPo fell into my lap for the price of one saddle pack, I couldn't really turn it down. Besides, if I am able to get out and race a lot this winter I'll be picking up a DB12RR so I won't need the saddles
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Old 11-13-2010 | 05:24 AM
  #35139  
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Originally Posted by JayBee
The 4-dot (****) timing on the LRP X-12 motors, anyone know what actual number that works out to be? Also what about these 1s rotors, are you guys adding more teeth to the pinion with them/what are you guys rollout with them on a 90' X 45' track?
One more question- with running spec (no boost) classes, is it a good idea to run close to maximum motor endbell timing?
Originally Posted by JayBee
Anyone? Bueller?
the 4 dot is i believe 40 and i have seen setups with max motor and no timing esc
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Old 11-14-2010 | 01:22 AM
  #35140  
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Hi guys,

Looking to seek some valuable inputs from the gurus here,

Im looking to get back in to RC , looking at a pre-owned AE12R5 but they have the new 5.1 out for lipo n brushless

Would the handling differ alot between the R5 n R5.1 if I used brushless n 1s lipo ? ... except prolly the motor mounting would be a little bit harder to excess

Thanks guys
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Old 11-14-2010 | 08:25 AM
  #35141  
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Originally Posted by Vesa
For those who are interested in upgrade kits for 1/12, V-Dezign Carpet Ripper 4.0 version will be out soon. Email me [email protected] for more info, pricing and availability. Also US distributor is wanted! Check also www.v-dezign.net Reports below and more will be updated to the website soon!
V-Dezign Carpet Ripper 4.0

anyone running this car in America?

seems to popular in Europe
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Old 11-14-2010 | 09:30 PM
  #35142  
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Originally Posted by darrenoakley
I tend to apply a thin layer of shoo goo around the areas of most impact and wheel arches,then smooth it flat with finger tip. I works really well if you do it to a new shell and dry quickly. it has totally stopped splitting of the arches on my touring car and also 12th shell. I have used the specific RC lexan repair stuff but doesn't work as well as shoo goo. If you have any splits you can reinforce them with an off cut of lexan from a shell.
Thanks for the tip!! I picked up some shoe goo from Ebay and reinforced a few of my bodies yesterday. I had plenty of cracked wheel arches and busted body mount holes but the shoe goo fixed it all up better than ever. It really helped reinforce everything so it is stronger than new and I didn't pick up any more cracks today despite plenty of walls jumping out in front of my cars Awesome tip, thanks again!!
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Old 11-14-2010 | 09:55 PM
  #35143  
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Default Left hub coming loose?

I tried searching for this problem, but it is so hard to find specific info in these threads. Sorry if this has already been covered, I figure it has since I have 3 different cars with the same problem

I have a CRC 3.2R, 12R5.1 and 12L4 that all have the same problem keeping the left hub tight on the axle. No matter how hard I tighten the screw in the left hub, it eventually develops a little bit of side-to-side slop which ruins the handling. The faster my lap times are getting, the quicker I am working these left hubs loose.... and it is happening on all three 1/12s I am running Are there any good tricks for keeping the left hub tight on the axle?? The screw is not coming loose and it has always been tight when I checked it, but the hub will eventually move enough to cause ~1mm of play.
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Old 11-14-2010 | 11:06 PM
  #35144  
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Originally Posted by Funky
I tried searching for this problem, but it is so hard to find specific info in these threads. Sorry if this has already been covered, I figure it has since I have 3 different cars with the same problem

I have a CRC 3.2R, 12R5.1 and 12L4 that all have the same problem keeping the left hub tight on the axle. No matter how hard I tighten the screw in the left hub, it eventually develops a little bit of side-to-side slop which ruins the handling. The faster my lap times are getting, the quicker I am working these left hubs loose.... and it is happening on all three 1/12s I am running Are there any good tricks for keeping the left hub tight on the axle?? The screw is not coming loose and it has always been tight when I checked it, but the hub will eventually move enough to cause ~1mm of play.

What about making the gap in the hub alittle bigger with a dremel cutting wheel? Should allow you to apply more force to the axle.

Thats the only thing I can think of, never had the problem of the hub moving.

Shawn.
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Old 11-14-2010 | 11:56 PM
  #35145  
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Originally Posted by radio_car_racer
V-Dezign Carpet Ripper 4.0

anyone running this car in America?

seems to popular in Europe

Hi guys!

Not yet that I would know, so far limited marketing has been done to Europe market. More info will follow later on, working on the info during the end of this year.

v-dezign.net e-mail server has been down for some time already, please email to [email protected] for further questions and info!

at Facebook you can find lots of photos and info about the latest version, reports etc

http://www.facebook.com/vdezign

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...d=223123974212
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