I am building up a DB12RR and the term IRS parts keep coming up and all I can think of is independant rear suspension. What does it actually mean?

irrgang racing services

Dave Irrgang has been in RC for years making diff parts and other assorted parts for 12th and 10th pan cars. including full cars

http://www.teamirsrc.com/

If you have a kinetic 1s, spektrum receiver and ko servo the lipo is plug and play. The point is get the right setup and you can do it.

.....just discoloration Mike.

Oh boy...

I usually sand it off and start fresh. You'll notice when you actually "break in" or "run in" your diff, that slight discoloration will come back. When you actually feel a GROOVE thats when its typically bad. Either way, I sand it off. Why? I'm not sure... I feel better about it :P

-Korey

This may have been the funniest thing I've read on the net today.
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yes, that is a clever use of the BEC in the speedo. i guess you don't have to recharge your receiver pack more than once a week?

it never occured to me before, but how big a lipo receiver pack can you use before the sanctioning body demands it be in a hardcase?

Sorry for the 101 question but...

How do I wire in a receiver, receiver pack and transponder in the simplest possible way? (A diagram would be really nice.)

For information it is a 4 cell car, using a KO FM receiver, and Novak Atom ESC (Yes, I'm using a brushed motor – don't ask).

I may also have the use of a voltage booster, but assume I don't to begin with.

The unfortunate thing about your post is that the guys in my area with the Novak 1s get smoked on the track because the software doesn't allow it to perform like a Tekin or black diamond yet.

They are getting closer but not yet.

Thanks... Will check it out

It's not the drivers? Either way the Kinetic throttle response feels so much more linear to me. My Tekin feels like I'm pulling my finger through mashed potatoes no matter what throttle curve I set it to.

I may be wrong about the wiring thing as it appears Novak is using something similar to the schematic above to utilize the ESC BEC. I'm not sure what kind of strange things may happen if you feed 8.4v back to the Kinetic through the receiver wires.

in this particular case it is the speedo. Version 104 is supposed to rectify the issue that causes him to get pulled out of every corner with a lower start rpm to the speedos timing maniputlation.
Right now the powerband doesn't really come in soon enough.

I know Noavk will get the software dialed in and then he will be right where he needs to be....

No, the point is, you still haven't answered my original question.

"Are you absolutely certain that this product [LiPo receiver pack] is better than a LiFe? If so, tell us why it is better"

Why would someone choose a LiPo, along with the extra hardware that is needed on many systems, instead of a LiFe? Don't say it's because you need a different charger. My LiFe charges just fine with my LiPo charger.

It should be sanded out. Effectively, the balls a burnishing the surface of the washer. After a prolonged time, they will create a groove in the washer. The burnished surface is slippery, and so the diff is more inclined to slip under power, especially with ceramic-coated balls (Yeah, I said that too!! )

Irrespective of the use of a thrust race or cone washer in the outboard side of the diff, the burnishing of the rings encourages the diff to slip, and then it burnishes the rings more, and then it slips, and then... Providing the diff is kept tight with no slip, it will last longer.

As relevant to a smooth diff is the c**p that gets between the diff balls and their holes in the spur gear. This rapidly creates a 'grease' that drags on the balls and makes the diff 'sticky'. Often, simply cleaning out the diff balls and their holes in the spur gear will restore a diff to good condition.

Lastly, be sparing with the grease. It is only there to provide a lubrication between the ball and its plastic hole - it has no other function. It isn't there to lubricate any of the steel parts - if it was then the diff would slip all the time!!!

Thanks buddy. I guess I shouldn't have said 'groove', lol. There's no groove in my diff rings; that's just the first word that came to mind.
But you are absolutely right, a small thin film of grease on the balls (ewww!!) is all you need. I build up a pretty sweet diff and I use ceramic balls w/Shuie diff grease. And more often than not a simple cleaning of the spur gear holes leaves you with a crunch-free diff.