Need some help... I ran 19t last week & fried my diffs.
They were the plastic outdrives. I got some IRS outdrives
but I'm having a hard time securing the diff's with the plastic
housing that surounds the nut. it seems to go to far for the ends to be secure. What do you use when running modifieds?
Thanks for any help. MJ

Be careful when replacing the diff outdrives with aftermarket ones. I discovered that Associated changed the design of the diffs between the first series and the latest. I too fried the plastic diif outdrives in my factory team kit and as a quick fix, tossed in the old ones from my original racer kit. When I got around to replacing them with Hardcore Racing outdrives, I couldn't get the diffs to work. I later discovered that one of the internal bearings (racer kit) had been replaced with a narrower bushing (FT kit) and made all the difference in the world. It kind of sounds like you may have the same problem, the aftermarket parts are a different generation than the the ones that fried. If that's not the issue, email IRS and ask them for advice, could be something simple. Hope this helps, good luck.

The AE steel outdrives and the AE plastic outdrives do not use the same thickness for the internal bearings/bushings.

Does anybody on this thread remember a post someone put up a link to their web sight and was a how to on milling the cassis out to move the batteries more center line it also had the ntc3 steering rack conversion on it anybody remeber whos web sight that was??


thanks
RandyB

Here.

Bling thanks man !!!!

Thanks Java 1970 & JWatt.
Have one of you used the light weight outdrives part #3913?
& if so How did they work for you?

Did associated ever come out with a different input gear. like a white-ish colored one??

RandyB- The new style input gear is not gray, it is the yellow/white color now.

Chef88- The plastic outdrives work fine, just don't last too long.

I ran the stock plastic hubs that came with the factory team kit and they melted!! (Wish I had a picture, it was cool, sort of) I replaced them with Hardcore Racing outdrives to help out the shop owner who is a friend of mine, he wanted honest, working feedback on them. I would recommend using the Associated aluminum replacements since they are at the exact same specs as the kit requires. (Since they are the ones who designed the kit in the first place) Hardcore work just fine, but it's almost always to get it from the original source. As for a concern about less weight, it should at a tic more speed since it is less roatating mass.

Hitec HS-5625MG $55
Speed: 0.14 sec/60 degrees at 6.0V
Torque: 130.53 oz/in at 6.0V

Futaba S3050 Servo Digital Standard High Torque BB MG $50
Speed: 0.16 sec/60 degrees at 6V
Torque: 90.2oz/in (kg/cm) at 6V

the hitec is pretty tempting...


the analog ones are cheaper.


Futaba S3305 Standard High-Torque Servo w/Metal Gears $35
0.20 sec/60 degrees at 6V
124 oz/in (8.9 kg/cm) at 6V


Hitec HS-625MG Servo Speed Metal Gear S/JR/Z $37
0.15sec/60 degrees at 6.0V
6.8kg-cm (94.43 oz/in) at 6.0V

what do you guys think? im trying to keep costs down to as low as possible without sacrificing potential. if its really worth it should i just go for the $90+ servos?

I have a digital KO servo, and believe me, a digital servo makes a noticable difference/improvement over analog servos. Not only are they extremely quick and strong, but you should never have to worry about the servo not centering or wandering. That HS-5625MG does look pretty good, not too expensive

I second the idea that digital servos far surpass the analog. The digital is worth the extra money, for sure!

Matt

Analog servo= AMC Pacer on valum

Digital servo= Ford GT on rocket fuel


'Nuff said!!!

are the new input gear and diff gears a running change in the new kits and how can you tell if you are buying a new kit?