Hello guys new here on the forums first I try to read as much as I can about the 1/12 cars but seems to be so much info that some is lost on this sea of post.

First I like to know what batts should I use I read in some places about lipos but don't find which is best 1s or 2s and if 2s what size or mah's it should be,second will be motors for the car if use 2s how many turns or KV should I use.I see some guys at a local track with stock brushed motors and speed seems fine to me what is comparable to that in brushless.

Any help here would be appreciated.

raypa- The best place to start is to talk with the local racers to see what they are running, so that you have someone to compete with and have comparable motors and batteries. Car choice should be made with parts availability in mind, plus the ability to share information with other racers...so you may want to choose one of the more popular cars at your local track.

In general, a 17.5 brushless is considered "stock" in many places in the U.S. Also, 1s lipos are used at all major races for 1/12 scale. Almost any name brand lipo in the 4000-5000 mah range, and 30-40c should be quite adequate to begin.

Stick with it for awhile...there is a lot to learn but there is a lot of fun in the competition and the friends you will make.

I apologize if this has been asked already, I have tried searching, but there are a million different answers that come up.

I have a RC12R5.1 and RC12L4. The L4 body is not too bad, but the R5.1 body is trashed. Both cars could use a new body. Is there a standard body that most people run on 1/12 scale pan cars (similar to the Mazda Speed6 that many Touring cars race with)? I was thinking about the Protoform Speed 12, but I wasn't sure if this was a good choice. Unfortunately I have the first 1/12 scale cars at my track so there is nobody there to ask.

I am still pretty rough on the track, so I would like a body that can handle some abuse without splitting after the first mishap

There are a number of different bodies used. Largely it depends on personal preference of how much down force you want. But if you are looking for durable bodies look a the Parma Speed 8 or Speed 8 HD. Parma molds their bodies thicker than others so they are more durable...but heavier as well.

If you're just practicing and not going for ultra lightweight you can use Duct tape to reinforce the body around the post holes and across the front. The Protoform AMR is the current body of choice among pros, but it has a lot of steering built into it's aero, so if you have a problem with rear grip the Parma Speed 8HD is more forgiving.

Hey everyone, I just have a set-up question. I just got into 1/12 scale racing and although I have racing experience, I have no experience with setting up pan cars. I have a CRC Gen XL and I'm running on carpet so of course I'm in a high traction environment. The car handles really well but I can be faster if the diff didn't unload as easily when I exit corners. I was thinking that I probably need stiffer side springs...is this correct or is there something else that I should try first? In any other form of racing you'd have the option of tightening the diff but the manual says that in 1/12 scale racing it is critical to have the diff as loose as possible without slipping.

With harder side springs the car will "feel" easyer but tent's to lift it's rear wheels faster. Try running softer side springs and also a softer center spring.
The softer side springs will make the care lift it's wheel less easy. The softer center spring will slow down the weight transfer and there fore lift the wheels also less easy. But softening the side springs will make a set-up changes and maybe loose some reaction. If you don't like that make the side tubes a litte stiffer.
Also try to drive les camber at the front wheels (1deg) and try putting some sticky stuff on the front susp shafts (under the front springs). This will also slow down the weight transfer. Less but not least put the battery in front (if not already there) and just try to "corner" easyer, try some steering curve (-10%).
I assume you have already widend the front end (168mm / 169mm) and glued the front tires?

Good luck!

Best Regards
Robert

Robert

Dear 1/12 race frineds

Does the pro guys use 16 or 14 AWG to wire up their speedo/motor/LiPo in the modified class?

On asphalt what is the difference in lap times between 1/10 touring car and 1/12 pan car? Pan cars look extremely fast in video's.

I would say 14 is good... but most important is to make sure the wires don't affect the motion of the suspension by binding or being too thick.

Most people I know use 16 AWG wire. The TQ/CRC wire is particularly good.

Trev

When the grip is high enough, the past 2 events ive run my 1/12 and Modified car at (2009 Aus Nationals and 2010 South Australian Titles) My 1/12 and Tourer have done the same lap time This was 3.7V on both equation in the 12th. Its more to do with the corner speed in 1/12

Antoni

I tend to apply a thin layer of shoo goo around the areas of most impact and wheel arches,then smooth it flat with finger tip. I works really well if you do it to a new shell and dry quickly. it has totally stopped splitting of the arches on my touring car and also 12th shell. I have used the specific RC lexan repair stuff but doesn't work as well as shoo goo. If you have any splits you can reinforce them with an off cut of lexan from a shell.

Thanks! I will try softer springs. So I guess this means that harder springs would be better for less traction? That seems weird. I hadn't tried widening the front end or gluing the front tires or any of that yet, but perhaps I'll try that too if needed.

Start with the tires and front end ;-) This will do a lot more then the springs!

Your "think wise" is good about the springs. In general: Softer spring, more traction, stiffer spring more reaction. Although it's a pancar with (as far as I understand from your post) a lot of grip. Some physic laws don't just work anymore (because of both!). Making the side spring softer will make the car "lean" more, instead of flippin' over or lifting it's wheels because of a too hard side spring.

Robert