Ive played with the JPs 1-4...4 is good. 2013 is good. 2057 is good. So for my style I like the JP4... Everyone is different.

What about the JP-4 did you like??

There's someone at Rev who uses the JP-3 and he loves it. I would still get the 2013 when you can.

I've used the jp4 and I was very unimpressed with it compared to the 2057. To me, it was night and day. The b5 will work decent with it, but fuel economy and low end was so much better with the 2057.

I like the JP-4 as well. Puts the power to the ground way better for me over the 2057. Fuel consumption remains the same.

Well racing is done for the year and practice days are numbered. I was thinking about ordering a set of tko ceramic bearings to install over winter. Is it worth the money? The stock bearings are still good (3 gallons on motor) and the motor is running great. Just wondering if I you should mess with it or just leave it. Will the bearings add anything at all?

Thanks for the input

I installed TKO's @ 3 gallons as well. I did notice the motor spooled up quicker and better on top end....but i also had problems with dirt getting by the front bearing...so I just ran with a rear ceramic and stock front bearing. Not saying that problem will happen to you.

I am all of a sudden having trouble setting the idle. Each time I get it to idle, it idles fine then goes up in rpm. Even when I richen it. Any help would be great. I have also just replaced all fuel lines.

if it idles then raises its a sign its too lean somewhere Im going to say richen top and bottom to flush and go from there

I had a wonky idle on the weekend due to a gasket leak between my muffler and header pipe.Replaced the gasket and the B5 idled and ran like a dream again.

Im at the RCPro east and I just got through runnig my B5 with the JP4 and delivers all the power I can use on this track. Had a great practice night with it and it gives me about 9 mins I guess because I want to pit at the 8 min mark and it hasnt run out of fuel yet.....

Can a b7 rod be used in a b5 engine?

Well I just recently purchased the new Werls Pro Clutch to go with my new B5. The supplied collet put the flywheel a little to far forward and the clutchbell will not spin freely when you tighten down the screw at the end of the crankshaft. Shimming it just makes the problem worse. I measured the collet at 7mm and I noticed that in all my other engines the flyweel sits nearly flush to the front bearing.

Anyone know where I can get a 6mm or 5mm collet or am I doing something wrong?

Well... I was practicing at a local club racing track today and set the new track record lap time with my B5 in my buggy. 3 laps after I set the lap time the rod snapped The piece of the piston broke too. It had no more than 6 gallons on it maybe a tad more.

So your saying the bearing sets flush or past the end of the crank? What I'm asking is the clutchbell hitting the flywheel pins or is the binding caused by screwing the screw on the end of the crank?