I am interested in moving from 1/10 TC to 1/12 th. I was wondering how reliable and low maintenance the 1/12th differential is in comparison to the typical 1:10 scale 4wd belt driven differentials are. Assuming my goal is not eeking out the last tiny increment of speed but rather maximizing my track time relative to my wrench time.

I usually rebuild it during the week before I go to the track and it's fine all day. If I'm lazy and have to run a second day on it, it's still fine. Since you are not looking for that last tiny fraction of speed, use a thrust bearing instead of the usual cone pushing on the ball bearing. And then when you do rebuild it, it is MUCH easier to do than a TC.

Hi i'm new to 1/12 not ever owned one. ive just bought a CRC Gen x to have a play with indoor, nothink serious !

Anyone tell me if i can fit 1 cell lipo and a brushless motor without having to purchase any special parts that are used on the XL version ?

Also what the crack with receiver packs ? Are these required to power the receiver due to the voltage of the batterys used ?

I think i'm going to use My Lrp SPX with this.

Any information would be apprecieted, i havent received the car yet hence the questions.

thanks

mike

This will depend heavily on how clean the surface you race on is and also how much power you bolt in. On a clean track with a 10.5 you can do an entire day with a few practice runs with no problems. Bolt in more serious power (AKA 5.5t and lower) and you will need to rebuild the diff more often just as you do when you bolt in heaps of power in a TC.

Keep in mind that rebuilding a 12th scale diff only takes a few short minutes. It is a very simple case of removing one bolt, cleaning the plates and spur, greasing, and re-assemble. The most time consuming thing to do between runs on a 12th scale (assuming no setup changes) is swapping the wheels from side to side so they wear evenly and then gooping.

12th scale is very easy to run once you know what you are doing.

The slapmaster thrust bearing will allow you to run for a very long time with hardly any need to service the diff. An IRS type of solid cone will yield the most free diff possible. But it's a little hard on the diff's outer bearing. So, while the IRS setup will give you the absolute best possible diff action, it does require a little more attention. I run the solid cone in mine and, for club racing, I go a couple of weeks between cleaning and re-lubing the diff. At big events, I re-do the diff once per race day. As others have said, servicing the diff in a 1/12th scale car is a quick and easy process. If you don't want to change the outer bearing occasionally, I suggest the slapmaster thrust bearing. And if you want the freest diff action possible, then the solid cone is the way to go. As a side bar, it's important to use a diff nut that goes straight onto the threaded stud that's sticking out of the axle. Often the plastic nuts don't thread on straight. So they push harder on one side of the thrust cone (or bearing) than on the other side. A crooked diff nut will make it impossible to obtain a free diff action. The easiest way to overcome this issue is to use an aluminum nut with the nylon locking collar. Those are threaded at the factory so the threads are square with the flat surface that presses on the diff cone. Lot's of guys overlook this simple item. If you use a crooked nylon diff nut with a rigid diff cone, the outer bearing will go bad almost immediately, and your always crunchy diff will drive you crazy. So it's well worth the trouble to find a diff nut that threads on absolutely straight. Just buy a couple of the aluminum locknuts. Problem solved. Happy motoring.

I hadn't thought of that... But my diff has been very good latley WITH the plastic nut... will be interesting to see if it is any better with a proper nut.

The difference isn't in whether the diff nut is plastic or aluminum w/nylon, but if the plastic diff nut is threaded on STRAIGHT Dragonfire.

Hey Mike, depends on which gen x you got. Because some later ones have the brushless pod on them so all you would not have to buy any special parts. If you could post a picture that would help. You do need a small receiver pack because the speed controllers are not set to run on the 3.7v they normally use 6v. You can get a li-fe pack that will give you 6.6v max no regulater needed or a small 2s li-po pack 7.4v and pick up a regulator. There is another option of using a booster I know novak makes one and i forgot the other one people were using but I myself us a receiver pack.

Don't mess around with a receiver pack. Just get one of these: http://www.rcdynamics.co.uk/Products.html

The TQ Boosters work good to but the RC Dynamic boosters are located in the UK. That is all I use now.

The Novak will cut off under heavy amp draw loads about mid way through a 8 minute run. There is a way to disable the lipo protection but you need to contact Novak as you have to do some work on the device.

just a quick picture of the 7.5 test bed
pulled a cyrul and lenghtened the shock location on my genx not sure if it's helping anything but my mental state. but it has seemed to soften it out on the bumpy portions of the track. atlest I haven't gotten air from the front end bouncing up in the air like it did with the 10.5 in the car last winter.

i m new to pan car, just having a quick question. what kind of traction compound you guys use for indoor on your foam tires?

PARAGON GROUND EFFECTS FOR LIFE

ok that is the best for 12th scale lasts the full race on any track. now with that being said some tracks mandate other brands like jack the gripper as it doesn't smell like wintergreen which I don't mind. stickyfingers from trinity suxs and even jack has issues for a 8 minute race unless everybody is using it. Niftech has some stuff that some of the other 12th scale drive stand by but I have not used it. I would check with your local track to see if they have a preference so that you can get it and that your permiating the carpet with similar compound.

Most tracks now use Jack the Gripper, Sticky Fingers, or Niftech, as much as Nashrcracer wishes we'd use Paragon.

Crashby, why is it worth the extra cost + shipping to run the RCDynamics vs the TQ Booster. I use the TQ Booster and like it, but I like to know about all products on the market. Educate me!

Does anybody have a release date for this item? i see the parts are on the Yok Japan site but not USA? Anything would help.

ME