JayBee

iTrader: (31)

PITA= pain in the ass, lol.
And yes my ride is balanced as close as it can be left/right. I'll post pics soon of my car on pegs and you shall see. I must admit my car is 20grams overweight. I attribute that to the SXX (although small in its own right) and the NON-lightweight Speed8 HD, lol...

protc3

iTrader: (13)

You do want to make sure the car is balanced very good left to right. THis goes for any 1/12th car. Balance is very important.

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

blah blah blah, never balanced mine

protc3

iTrader: (13)

Thats why your not an omni turner

xrayaustin

iTrader: (12)

thats why u didnt turn consistent 8's or any for that matter

itbvolks

iTrader: (6)

Hey guys, been through this entire thread reading about the new CH12 and I'm looking to pick one up with the revised front end. Sounds like Jason has done his homework and it's quite the setup.


Being about 20yrs removed from 1/12, curious how is the setup/tuning in regards the to CH12? Fairly easy to get setup and running? I saw Jasons setup and looks pretty straight forward.

I've been running 1/8th truggy for about the last 10 years (leccy now) but that 1/12 bug has always been there and I've wanted to get back into it for years. Seems now is as good a time as any.

What's the hot setup now a days? Seems 13.5T seems pretty std. I see lots of LRP power plants in use.

Thanks,
E.

skypilot

iTrader: (14)

jaybees balancing act

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

try balancing it with out the pod,thats what i was told

chris moore

iTrader: (96)

It seems that every club does its own thing for motors, someplaces(like here) we run 13.5. Other tracks follow ROAR rules and run 17.5 for their stock class. Same with esc's, I like the Tekin but the BD and LRP are great too. The besst thing to do is hit the local track and see what rules are in place for the class there.


I've tried both ways and did not see any difference in how my cars have balanced in the past

CarbonJoe

A quick fix for this is to take some blue painter's tape (or even plain masking tape), put a 1 inch square over the outside bearing hole. Then, take an Xacto knife and slice an X in the tape where the bearing goes. Press the bearing in, and then trim the excess tape around the bearing. The outside bearing hole is the one causing the slop, and this method removes that slop.

whynot

iTrader: (18)

Hey guys I have my ride height set and trying to set front droop now. how do you go about doing this? when I start to turn in the droop screw to set droop I am getting the droop screw touching the lower arm bracket and the ride height screw both touching down at the same time Is this bad? I cant seem to find an accurate method to measure this thanks
mike

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

Last night went reasonably well with the DB12RR w/d-strut frt. end. Super steering batman!! Didn't really have a lot of time to test and tune but found out a few things that will definitely help out with my next raceday.
The new SXX v.2 performed flawlessly with no hiccups. We run 13.5 w/no boost out here, so really the only thing to fiddle around with is the "feel" (punch). I ran the whole night w/profile #4 but felt the "feel" was a bit too flat off neutral. Moved it to profile #6 for next time...
Anyone out there run a LRP X12 13.5? Have you played with the endbell timing; what was the effect?

I think Jason nailed it with this new front end. No more springs, kingpins, kingpin lubing, and spacers.

* 2 thicknesses of front flexplates w/set screws for ride height & frt end flex.
* 1 setscrew in each lower arm for droop.
* front damper tube
......set it and forget it and everything is slop free.

Btw J....can't wait to try out those BSR's

protc3

iTrader: (13)

Your droop screws may just touch the chassis when the car is in your hands, you want to have it sitting on the table and have the car at ride height. From the weight of the car loading the wheels, you may compress the springs a little while at ride height. You want about .5-.75 uptravel over ride height for droop. What you want to do is back the droop screws out. Then set ride height with the set screws in the flex plates. Once this is done, turn the droop screws in just about until they touch the sub plates. At this point you want to start measuring your up travel. I do this by slowly lifting the car with an exacto blad until both front wheels leave the ground at the same time. You want them both to leave the ground about .5-.75mm over your ride height measurement.

avs

iTrader: (2)

that is a good suggestion.

i tried using a plastic bag, which was not a good idea, it shifted around too much. the weak adhesive of the blue tape would probably be just right.
thanks!

Joost K.

Mine is being shipped today!!! In 3 - 5 days it will be mine!!!

Jason, THANX!!!