the chassis is plastic. the rest is still graphite-loaded plastic.

I think I'm getting it - you guys put WAY too much torque on the tranny case... it just needs to be closed shut, not to be locked tight forever. Just use a tiny bit of threadlock on the motor plate threads, tighten normallly (not full grip on the handle, just 2 or 3 fingers) not past the plastic elasticity, and you're all set, free transmission. This is a 10th scaler, not a 8th scale truggy... be nice to the plastics

Paul

Arms and towers are definitely plastic in my B4.1 FT kit. Apparently the team guys are running graphite arms in high temp / high grip conditions.

Ray

mmh. Mine are graphite, they both have the "powdery" look and break "brittle" from the parts tree mold...

Paul

The old team cars are plastic too, but there is fiber in that too.

Then you have the FT carbon, wich has more fiber or diferent type of fyber.

why they change? because plastic car has better handling in many conditions.

Losi changed too when they gone to the CR. damn i said the L-word...

Refer to this post concerning the carbon parts. This is from Chris Jarosz
Team Associated Customer Support.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/7797334-post106.html

The new car comes with new plastic parts that are both a different material and a new mold. They are very similar to the older plastic parts.

I have had the the same problem with binding the transmission on all my B4 builds. Usually I tighten the screws finger tight, run the car for a day or two and typically the transmission loosens up on its own. Recheck the screws and you should be good to go.

I've heard of ppl shaving a SMALL bit of length off of the top shaft spacer #9602 to free up the transmission. Apparently, not much material needs to be removed to be effective.

Is the RC10B4.1 good for beginners?

What servo are you guys putting in your B4's? I had a hobbico cs170 in mine but my 1/8th scale throttle servo decided to stop working at the race sunday so I had to rob the one out of my B4. And I don't feel like buying another cs170. I need something a little less powerful and cheaper.

Well I finally fixed my tranny and figured out what the deal was. The top shaft was loose so i added an axle shim, just helped the play in the shaft but didn't do much for the binding. The real kicker was the screw that runs through the wing mounts, once I tightened that one down the tranny would bind. I think the spacing is off just a booby hair and it twists the whole tranny a little when torqued. I added a washer between the gear side wing mount and motor plate, worked like a charm.

Jr9100s but...

I drove a b4 with the ae servos and it was pretty dead on. That's prolly your best option.

How much rebound do you set the shocks shafts at?

"added a washer between the gear side wing mount and motor plate" - A pic would be great!!! I am having problems too.