Originally Posted by RB FIVE View Post
Naa i wasn't but now i am.


Mo was pitting at 7:30 soo stop lying. The thing is junk after a gallon and has no low end. I have one i took it out for that race cause it was garbage on the low end. The only person touching my needles is mazzara
so don't even go there on that one.

You wanna call me out smoking crack well whatever. Your boy was gonna get smoked if the other guy didn't flame out. The toothless guys in the pitlane repping your motor looked like they were on crack.

To be honest i was almost certain he would flame out again.

You couldnt be more wrong ron. I took your engine out on friday cause it was JUNK on the corners!!! Words out playa..... no low end after a gallon.

Noo i just don't drink the Kool aid.

I bought one of these. My friends have them too. They all bought them. I feel bad cause they are gonna need new engines soon.

you wanted a engine discussion or comparison. You get what you pay for.

These things are good for a gallon.

*********

Now that is some funny stuff! You know I've been polite and I've been nice in the past dealing with you but the reality of the matter is that you are the typical type of person that is NEVER happy and NEVER satisfied! As I told you a couple of pages back if you do not like the engine then by all means stop running it and get something else, really I mean it, please do this we will all be happier! Your response after that was basically no way this engine is the bomb, now it's suddenly junk again lol!

There is nothing worse than having to deal with a person that does nothing other than continually try to stir the pot and create issues and frankly that is what you seem to specialize in. So I'm going to kindly ask that you refrain from posting on this thread, I don't want to deal with it. I'm completely open to criticism, I'm completely open to trying to work through issues with people, what I'm not open to is dealing with some one that seems to have multiple personalities and likes to create drama. This has for the most part been a very productive and constructive thread, I think that is because we have avoided most of the drama on here and everyone has been doing what they should, acting like adults, trying to help each other out and using this as a venue to exchange ideas and information. You on the other hand have contributed nothing productive, have used every opportunity to create drama, talk negative about things, whine, complain and now even call me and another driver out as a liar. That's completely over the top and not something that I want to deal with.

And as far as your statements about the thing being junk after a gallon, and only doing 7:30 etc. there is a reason that this is one of the best selling engines in the US and it is not because it does not make any low end, is junk after a gallon and that it can not make run time! And as far the "my boy was gonna get smoked" comment, if you think that your all that (or any of your boyz) feel free to come on down to CA or any of the big races and run against my other boy, Kortz and show me exactly how these engines are junk and don't have any bottom and cant make run time! He runs box stock engines, exactly the same stuff that you guys buy, no differences, not gone through, not massaged, nothing just completely box stock. And last weekend that was good enough to deal with all of the engines ran by most of the top guys in RC so I'm going to have to say that it cant really be that bad can it?

Ron

personal prefererence well said. b5 great engine,great value,but not my favorite.

Thanks..I guess I am just confused on where all the adjustment screws are located that Ron mentions...

I dunno i tried to edit that out after you told me i smoke crack to be a little better of a man. I just see a different story at that race.... and with our B5 engines.

It's ok ron. I apologize. your engine won pro buggy it's better then the MTE and goes 11:30 min on 125cc of fuel driving strapped for peanuts. The oil change on my boat is 2,800 dollars...

I submit. Good luck in all your endeavors. I am gonna go sober up now.

I am very satisfied with alot of my stuff.


Again i rescind that post. it was really mean. That's just not the way things should be said. for that I apologize.


Yo i run losi stuff tell your boy to go beat one of those guys out CA.

Your absolutely correct, engines are just like cars. There is no one is better than the other, there is only which one is best for you and your driving style. Everything is a compromise and trust me I know all too well about the ever changing cycle of which engine/brand is on top thing over the years. That is not what this is about and I've never alleged or stated that anyone else's products are junk or inferior. The issue stems from some one making those type of statements about our product and when that happens I'll take the time to rebuke statements that I think are false. It's not to start drama, its to ensure that factual data gets passed around.

Nice Ron, very well put. And RBFIVE please don't post here your embarrassing yourself!

I would like to note that the b5 was very easy to run too lean on the top for me, and it really seemed to be working well. If you're losing compression or performance after a gallon, it could very well be a hidden tuning problem that doesn't show up as a major issue.

The only indication for me was that it tended to be too fat in the low/mid range at times. I continued to get better performance by leaning out the main needle, but I was probably being tricked by an increase in acceleration, not top speed. When my motor was too lean on the main, and idling at the correct mixture on the LSN, it was boggy down low if let it load up at all, but other than that it worked very well and temps were stable. Additionally, a long high speed run on the street took my motor to 280F after I had just temped it at 220, and THAT was the real wake-up call that I had something going on for sure.

I have noticeably less compression now than I did just weeks ago when I started really running this motor lean. When you run lean, even if you don't overheat, that period where there is little fuel there is also little oil, and that does lots of wear. I cannot realistically expect to get the full 6+ gallons out of this motor before a refresh is needed now, and it's my own doing. It still is just nuts on the bottom end though, so it's not like it's done, or even close, it still has *plenty* of good 'kick' in the compression for sure.

Needle imbalance is a bitch. Since temperature takes time to develop, you really can have it starving in one place and rich/cooling in another and not see an issue because the overall temperature has gravitated to a safe place. Unfortunately, when you were lean and starving, excessive wear is being done, and it adds up.

Keep in mind that I raced my motor with the main needle set a full 8-9 hours leaner that my recent re-tune for multiple club racing events. EIGHT TO NINE HOURS! After my races, when I'd pull into the pits, the motor would be in the 200 - 220 range always. Same tune on the street produced 280F in one pull. If I hadn't kept coming in here and reporting very slight strangeness, strangeness that was NOT keeping me from doing very well, I would have had no motivation to keep addressing the tune on the motor and my motor would surely have been done in very short order and it would have looked as if I had tuned it right, it ran well, and crapped out in 2 gallons.

It is almost a curse that the b5 runs so well with a bad tune because running well doesn't mean lasting long.

Wayne

Dude I was joking with you about the "you must be smoking crack" comment. You must be smart enough to be able to realize that. And as far a your sarcastic "your engine won pro buggy it's better then the MTE and goes 11:30 min on 125cc of fuel driving strapped for peanuts. The oil change on my boat is 2,800 dollars..." stuff, I don't need that and frankly I dont want it. What I want is either you start acting like and adult and bring something positive to this thread, or even negative (if you want to look at working through issues a negative) but bring something other than a 10 foot paddle that you use to continually stir up crap. That gets old...

Perfectly understandable Ron.

Your engine gets old.... after a gallon.....

If anyone feel they need more bottom from a B5 you can simply remove a head shim or two...the B5 comes shimmed relatively conservative and has plenty of room to bump the compression up, at least IMO....This alone will instantly beef up the power.....As long as you know how to tune you wont have any issues...I run my B5 quite aggressively on the compression and it runs like a champ..... Tho I must say even with the stock shimming the B5 makes excelent torque...

WTF??

Hello sjracing, first off thank you for picking up one of our engines! I'm sorry that your request for info is kinda getting lost in between all of this drama lol! In any case in regards to break in please take a look at my break in instructions, this is a really simply system to use and is especially good to use if you are newer to tuning these type of engines as it is virtually impossible to run the engine too lean, which is important during break in!

Now you mentioned that your experience was in running nitro planes, so you have experience tuning engines. As you mentioned planes are a little different as they only have a HS needle and of course they are cooled by the prop so temps are not so big a factor. In any case with your carbs we have 3 basic adjustments, that is the HS needle that you are familiar with which sticks up from the top of the carb on a brass post, we have the LS needle which is the one on the end of the slide right where your servo linkage connects and we have the idle stop screw which is the screw that sits at a 45 degree angle right behind the carb venturi (if you look at the engine from the top). These are the three screws that you will be adjusting to break in your engine.

The way that you have to look at these is that the HS affects the overall fuel delivery (across the entire range of throttle movement), the LS affects the initial fuel delivery (from roughly throttle closed to about half way open) and the idle stop screw only dictates the minimum amount of air that the engine will get or basically how far you can close the throttle. At half throttle and above you would basically tune the engine the same way that you would your airplane motor. But at half throttle and below look at the LS and the HS kinda like your garden hose and the tap. The HS needle is the tap at the wall, if you turn it wide open you can move a lot of water through the hose (or in our case fuel through the carb) but if your nosle on the end of the hose (LS needle) is barely open you will only have a little bit of water going through it. So when breaking in your engine you want to have a lot of air and fuel flowing through your engine (you want the engine to be rich). The way that you do this is set your idle stop screw pretty far open (so you have a lot of air coming into the engine) and then you have your needles open really far so that you have a lot of fuel coming through the engine also.

Following my instructions each tank you lean the needles slightly, this means that you then have less fuel coming into the engine so you naturally need to reduce the amount of air also which is why you reduce the air gap using the idle stop screw. Take a look at my instructions with the engine actually in your hand and I think that it will start to make a little sense. Keep in mind that while doing this your engine will be telling you what needs to happen by what it is doing so once you start the system it really makes sense. Give it a shot and while your doing it if you have any questions please do not hesitate to ask!

Regards,

Ron

ordered my clocked b5 last night, so it should be on its way anytime. from talking with neal i matched it up with a 2013. im expecting some pretty good thing out of it going off of what im told. nice to see ron here helping everybody out. thats certainly a plus here... o btw its going in my new 2.0 roller...

I have about a gallon and a half on my b5 now and it seems to be getting stronger everytime I drive it. I don't race and never have(one day I will try it) but for the most part I just drive it out in an open area that has some BMX jumps. I guess I am pretty hard on it lots of WOT runs and I seem to average about 10:30 per tank from full to fumes. The 1130 min mark seems possible with the right driver on a track I assume. This is my first .21 motor so I can't really compare it to anything. My tuning is not the greatest as it took me some time to find the right needle balance and eliminate the high idle. It temps at around 215 with werks #5 plug and 2013 pipe. Byrons 30% Thanks Ron for all the good info you post on here it's what made me get this motor and helped me tune it.