Hey Ron Thanks for your quick response. Yes sir it did not fault at all during break in or the two tanks at wow. Now with that being said yesterday the motor was great for the first half of a tank then it wouldnt go like it was starving for fuel so i put on a new tank fuel line and the issue still was there. Then Manny otman had stop by to see whatthe problem was he took a part the carb cleaned it and we put it back together i tried it again and seemed to be a little better but then it started to spit and spuder out of the blue. so fro the main i put o and different carb retuned the motor and ran it and had now issues the motor came off 231 and ran 10 mins no issues. So that is where i stand narrowing it down to a carb issue.

Ran my B5 yesterday for the first time since break-in. Needle setting were still very rich, and had good smoke, but the temps were still a little warm(250-270). During the last qual, had a high end lean bog, so I knew what the problem was instantly. Clunk fell off the fuel tank tubing. Fixed that problem, re-tuned, and the engine ran like a top the rest of the day. Great engine, I was gonna use it as a back-up for my +4C at the AMS, but now I might run it and keep the +4 as a back-up.

Assuming that there are no fuel system/clutch/pipe related issues I'm going to guess that you are just out of whack on the needles. If you have to run a lean bottom end and richening only makes it worse this would indicate to me that you are running a rich top. So what I would do is just set the idle gap to roughly .5mm, set your HS and LS needles flush. Fire up the engine and let it warm up. Use the LS needle to adjust the idle (lean the LS to increase idle speed, richen LS to slow down idle speed). Once you have a smooth, consistent idle toss the car on the track and adjust the HS to give you the top end that you need on the straight/temp that you want. This will also affect your idle so once again adjust the LS to give you the smooth, steady idle and you should be done. Again this tuning tip assumes that everything is ok with you fuel delivery system/clutch, if there are issues with that they would need to be resolved before the engine can be tuned properly. Lots of times ambient weather conditions i.e. temperature or humidity changes since the last time that you ran can just cause your needles to be set incorrectly and it some times can be a bit of a challenge to get them back to where they need to be.

Regards,

Ron

If you could please stick the carb back in and try the system that I just wrote in the post above and let me know what happens.

Regards,

Ron

Glad that you were able to figure out what was going on and get it resolved! Now that you have some fuel through the engine what are your thoughts on it and if you do not mind I would be really curious to hear how you feel it compares to the 21+4 engine as far as performance is concerned?

The Hot Bodies flywheel has an offset that on a lot of engines it will rub on the carb or engine case. SO basically you are just adding washers to the shaft before you put the collet on until the flywheel does not hit the case/carb. You can also run a different flywheel that is not offset, or a different collet as mentioned before or just add the shims.

Something is wrong..The B5 has insane bottom end... So put the setting back where ron suggests, Flush high and low. And check your Flywheel nut is tight,clutch is in good shape with no weak springs, fuel line,tank etc... You should not be that far in on the bottom screw so there is another problem that you have to find.. if you are to lean on the bottom you will lose bottom also.

FYI guys - I also had the same clearance problem mounting the M2C 4 shoe kit to my B5. I used 2 shims found in the Ofna OFN10099 shim kit.

finally got to run my B5 again today at a medium size outdoor track that has a lot of speed. i was getting well over 10 min with it. im very pleased with this engine. racing this friday night or saturday for the engines first time.

I'd swap in a new glow plug first.

Ron, I finally purchased mine!

How many people run the B5 in a truggy? I got the 2013 pipe because most of my tracks are tight and not very much wide open space. I'd like to hear they're/you're results

The B5 and 2013 is the perfect truggy setup. Throws a truggy around like a rag doll

B5 with a JP3 pipe 11+ min run time plenty of power small or big tracks just adjust gearing and thats in my RC8T.

Honestly, the two seemed to perform pretty similar. But its hard to give an accurate comparison cause my first race w/ the B5 was also my first time at a new track. The track was really slick, where my usual track is a little more grippy. I like both engines. The only difference I did notice so far was that the mid range on the B5 seems to come in a little stronger than the +4.
I plan on trying both engines during the practice day at the AMS. I'll try to give you some better feedback then.

Hey im lookin at getting another motor, Is there any other pipes besides the 2013 and 2057 that work good with the werks b5 motor? Im pretty low on money and cant afford a 100 dollar pipe. You got any other recommendations. I have the jp2 how would that work?