And I forgot to mention that a FrankenWerks won the truggy AMain by a full lap piloted by Manny Otmane.

I've never used shims before. Are they like washers... Please explain

Shims are super thin washers.

the d8 comes with no collet and the collet that comes with the b5 is too short. hb told me to use the savage collet regardless of motor. with the savage collet, the flywheel clears the carb, barely. you may need extra clutch bell washers. I run 1 more clutch bell washer than my vspec. this has been working for over a gallon.

Can u show me a link from amain with what I need please?

Yeah today i was in Jacksonville racing and i was the one having carb issues.
Someone reported on here incorrectly that i had it tuned incorrectly.......Well sorry he was wrong the story is i bought this motor from superior hobbies on the 14th of this month i broke it in and ran two tanks at wow raceway on that following weekend. And was so pumped about this motor i drove two hours to race only to have a disfuctional carb. So day was close to being near ruined. So any one who i know who can talk to so this issue can taking resolved. thanks kevin abbott

Yep, you can talk to me. What specifically was the "dysfunctional carb" issue that you had? Sorry to hear that you ran into these problems after having to travel so far to the race, did the carb issues not show up when you ran the engine during the break in process or when you ran the couple of tanks at wow raceway that you were referring to in your post? In any case let me know what the issue is and we'll see if we can work you through it.

Regards,

Ron

mike, razerthon is saying that you should us the collet from the HPI savage, if you look at a-mains site I'm sure that you will be able to find it. Regarding shimming of the flywheel this is a pretty basic thing that you are going to have to do with any clutch or engine. Basically you use the small shims (thin washers) to move the flywheel forward or backwards. This is done to move the flywheel away from the carburetor, to center the flywheel in the starter wheel cut out in the chassis, and also to adjust the positioning forward/backwards of the clutch bell. Again this is not really engine specific, you are going to have to shim these things on every engine/car. OFNA makes a nice shim kit which I'm sure that A-main also stocks. If not just about every hobby shop will have a clutch shim kit in stock. Hope this helps!

Regards,

Ron

What components make it a "FrankenWerks" engine?

what makes it a "FrankenWerks" engine

that would be a combination of different engine parts, maybe B5, with B3, or B7, or mostly werks parts with some other engine parts mixed in..any engine that is not all original designed parts that go with the engine are referred to as Frankenstein engines, because he was made up of different peoples parts. Todays lesson is over

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...5mm-Brass-21-2

With this collet, I didn't need any flywheel washers, just clutch bell washers. The b5 needed one more washer to keep the clutch bell from being sloppy as compared to my vspec. This is the same collet I used with my OS vspec because my v-spec didn't come with one. When I tried to use the b5 collet, my fly hit the carb. That's not to say you couldn't use the b5 collet with some flywheel shims. As noted, it's a fairly standard install procedure.

I believe it was a B7 Pro crankshaft, B5 P/S, B5 head, and a Sirio crankcase. I'm not sure which carb he used.

Raced yesterday and it seems i have to really lean my bottom end to get any power out of it. Car came off at 236 after main but the low end just didnt sound right, my buddy is running the same motor and his low end is almost flush where mine is in a ways. I tried to richin it but that was worse. I am going on about 3.5 gallons on the motor, and have been really happy with this motor. Any help would be great.

How is the top end on the motor? Can you lean that any more ? Also have you checked your clutch springs to make sure they havent started waring out and losing there spring?