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Old 05-08-2010 | 06:59 PM
  #646  
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Originally Posted by Dlewis4
Bit the bullet and bought one. Going in my MBX6Twith a JP1.

Anything i need to know about this motor before i bolt it up?
Just break it in according to the manual, then enjoy one of the easiest motors there is to tune! I think you will get better performance with the 8mm restrictor in a truck but run times will suffer some especially with the JP-1, no secret that they are fuel hogs. But the engine will run extremely well with it! Just keep an eye on how easy the needles turn, I havent had much trouble with the lsn, but have seen the hsn start turning real easy. If it starts turning with little effort replace the o-ring. My engine is one of the earlier ones and I'm pretty sure a different o-ring is used now, but just more of a preventative maintenance thing than anything (I have seen the hsn spin in the housing while the engine was running). This thread is full of good info on this mill, plus the customer service is excellent! So enjoy your purchase!
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Old 05-08-2010 | 08:07 PM
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Sounds great. Thank you Brian!

I have an OLD JP1 that the bottom is flat on.. is that going to be a problem? Should i just buy a new one? OR is there another pipe in the price range that i need to look into?
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Old 05-08-2010 | 08:15 PM
  #648  
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Originally Posted by Brian Alderman
Just break it in according to the manual, then enjoy one of the easiest motors there is to tune! I think you will get better performance with the 8mm restrictor in a truck but run times will suffer some especially with the JP-1, no secret that they are fuel hogs. But the engine will run extremely well with it! Just keep an eye on how easy the needles turn, I havent had much trouble with the lsn, but have seen the hsn start turning real easy. If it starts turning with little effort replace the o-ring. My engine is one of the earlier ones and I'm pretty sure a different o-ring is used now, but just more of a preventative maintenance thing than anything (I have seen the hsn spin in the housing while the engine was running). This thread is full of good info on this mill, plus the customer service is excellent! So enjoy your purchase!
Like Brian says...very easy motor to run.

The newer engines should no longer have the issue with the needles turning. As a precaution, a little Associate Green Slime on the o-rings is never a bad idea.

I'm running the JP-1 / 7mm restrictor / 14T bell in my truggy, and I'm getting about 7 and a half minute run time, while keeping my temp no higher than 235. Just for giggles, I'm going to put my 2050 on the next time I go out for practice and see how the motor feels with it.
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Old 05-08-2010 | 08:23 PM
  #649  
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I was at the Track today, having sum fun and seeing if I can get more out of this MIL... this is my first year with racing nitro and not beatin the snot out of them.... I have to say this engine is so easy to tune, and has plenty of power for a 3 port engine....

I have used the Ofna 086 Pipe today. It gave the engine Plenty of Low end Torque and Power.. Mid range was good till it got to 3/4 speed. Then It just hung..

I then Tryed a JP-4 Pipe. It gave the Engine Soo much top I couldnt open her fully on the straight. Low end was ok, and mid good to great... But I rather have low and mid over Top.

Between the both, I got great run times. But I think I got more with the JP-4. I think the Ofna is a gas hog cuz of low end power. Not sure if Im correct or not. I have to say Im getting 8 plus minutes on 1 tank.

Never had an issue with the Needles on the carb, or any air leaks. I used lucky 7 on all areas I was told to do so. Set my gap correctly. I am using the stock Venturi that came on Engine.

I also Used a 97T plug today and could see the difference in power from the 87T plug. So I know I will be stocking up on these Plugs... I have around 1.68 gallons on my Engine and at complete cold, I cannot turn it over. If you follow the break in manual to the T you will have NO ISSUES in my book, and I was kinda new to this.

Steve O!! You did it man. Great Job on an Excellent Product!!! I just may have to get another one.
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Old 05-08-2010 | 08:24 PM
  #650  
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Originally Posted by Stubbs
Like Brian says...very easy motor to run.

The newer engines should no longer have the issue with the needles turning. As a precaution, a little Associate Green Slime on the o-rings is never a bad idea.

I'm running the JP-1 / 7mm restrictor / 14T bell in my truggy, and I'm getting about 7 and a half minute run time, while keeping my temp no higher than 235. Just for giggles, I'm going to put my 2050 on the next time I go out for practice and see how the motor feels with it.
stubbs run the 2050 pipe, 7mm restrictor and 13t bell with 2x1.1 and 1x1.0 springs you will really like the feel of the motor.... plenty low end with a nice smooth transition to the top end... jeremy
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Old 05-08-2010 | 08:30 PM
  #651  
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Originally Posted by jer7469
stubbs run the 2050 pipe, 7mm restrictor and 13t bell with 2x1.1 and 1x1.0 springs you will really like the feel of the motor.... plenty low end with a nice smooth transition to the top end... jeremy
About the only thing I'll probably do differently than that is stick with the 14T. My local track is 1246 linear feet, and very fast. Even with a 14T, I still have plenty of pop in the infield, but I can leg it out more on the fast sections.
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Old 05-08-2010 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Stubbs
About the only thing I'll probably do differently than that is stick with the 14T. My local track is 1246 linear feet, and very fast. Even with a 14T, I still have plenty of pop in the infield, but I can leg it out more on the fast sections.
our straitaway is 125' feet long and have no issues with topping out.. try it both ways if you have time.... let us know what you like or dont like about both clutch bells.... i think you will get better fuel mileage due to not pulling the trigger on the infield to get over jumps and out of corners so hard.. jeremy
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Old 05-09-2010 | 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Dlewis4
Sounds great. Thank you Brian!

I have an OLD JP1 that the bottom is flat on.. is that going to be a problem? Should i just buy a new one? OR is there another pipe in the price range that i need to look into?
Its definately not good, when you have dents in a pipe it changes things. Now how much the change is may be a different story, I have seen plenty of pipes with dents in them. Just run it and see what you think, maybe someone at the track will have a straight one and you can try it and compare.
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Old 05-09-2010 | 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Stubbs
Like Brian says...very easy motor to run.

The newer engines should no longer have the issue with the needles turning. As a precaution, a little Associate Green Slime on the o-rings is never a bad idea.

I'm running the JP-1 / 7mm restrictor / 14T bell in my truggy, and I'm getting about 7 and a half minute run time, while keeping my temp no higher than 235. Just for giggles, I'm going to put my 2050 on the next time I go out for practice and see how the motor feels with it.
I agree with Jeremy on the clutch bell, but 7.5 mins in truck at those temps and restrictor doesnt seem like much run time. Depending on the size of the track I was getting 10-10.5 (smaller indoor tracks) and almost under any condition 9. Now that setup in a buggy is a different story. Just my opinion.
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Old 05-09-2010 | 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Brian Alderman
Its definately not good, when you have dents in a pipe it changes things. Now how much the change is may be a different story, I have seen plenty of pipes with dents in them. Just run it and see what you think, maybe someone at the track will have a straight one and you can try it and compare.
To get dents out of the pipe, close up the holes opn both sides, fill it with water and let FREEZE. The water will expand the ice, and thus pushing the walls back to where they were when you bought the pipe. Then when finished just let the ice turn to water again, bamn . Nice fixed pipe for yah
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Old 05-09-2010 | 07:43 AM
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Also when trying to find a pipe for this Mil. what type of pipe are we looking for a MR? Low end? Top end? What? Thanks guys
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Old 05-09-2010 | 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by PsycoB4
Also when trying to find a pipe for this Mil. what type of pipe are we looking for a MR? Low end? Top end? What? Thanks guys
From what I see the low end pipes are what works best, I definately don't think you need a top end pipe.
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Old 05-09-2010 | 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by PsycoB4
To get dents out of the pipe, close up the holes opn both sides, fill it with water and let FREEZE. The water will expand the ice, and thus pushing the walls back to where they were when you bought the pipe. Then when finished just let the ice turn to water again, bamn . Nice fixed pipe for yah
Who would have thought it? Nice information!
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Old 05-09-2010 | 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Brian Alderman
Who would have thought it? Nice information!
Old school buddy. Did this in my on road years. when the pipes were thin walls and easier, but should do the trick with these pipes....

Just dont crash on that side of the buggy or truck. Maybe we get some Header wrap from real cars?? Maybe that will help? lay it under the pipes on the flap and chassis?
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Old 05-09-2010 | 09:39 AM
  #660  
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Originally Posted by Brian Alderman
I agree with Jeremy on the clutch bell, but 7.5 mins in truck at those temps and restrictor doesnt seem like much run time. Depending on the size of the track I was getting 10-10.5 (smaller indoor tracks) and almost under any condition 9. Now that setup in a buggy is a different story. Just my opinion.
Speaking with Steve O, when running the motor in a truggy with a 7mm restrictor, I should expect 7.5 - 9 minute run time. I could get about 45 seconds more by going to a 6mm, but the overall power would be reduced.

I don't have a ton of experience with Jammin pipes, but all of the top drivers I've spoken with have told me the same thing....great pipes, but mileage suffers.

Anyway, my run time estimates are likely to be a bit on the low side since I try to never run my tank bone dry. I did however, try the mileage test that Steve explained to me. It goes as follows...

- Get the engine up to operating temp, and tuned appropriately for the conditions.
- Fill the tank and start the timer.
- Run 5 minutes at race pace and shut the motor down.
- In a truggy, with 7mm restrictor, if the tune is correct, the fuel level remaining in the tank should be just below the half way point. If the fuel level is way lower than that, the tune is off.

I was just a tad under the half way mark at the end of my 6 min. heats yesterday, so I'm sure I could have gotten more than 7.5 minutes run time, including what was in the filters and lines...
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