Ofna Force .21 JL
#737
NitroFreakManHo-
Clutch and bearings are all new, it does make a blubbering sound when I hit the throttle and then dies. It does not idle down very fast after WOT either!
Maximo-
Engine is stock
Tons of Pinch
Byrons 20%
The first 8 tanks I did small circles at half throttle, then started leaning it out.
I have a 1/4 acre area near my house the I run the car on, a few sharp turns and a few bumps here and there, to similate some what of a track environment.
I was wondering the same thing you mentioned about pulling one shim to see if it helps out any.
Clutch and bearings are all new, it does make a blubbering sound when I hit the throttle and then dies. It does not idle down very fast after WOT either!
Maximo-
Engine is stock
Tons of Pinch
Byrons 20%
The first 8 tanks I did small circles at half throttle, then started leaning it out.
I have a 1/4 acre area near my house the I run the car on, a few sharp turns and a few bumps here and there, to similate some what of a track environment.
I was wondering the same thing you mentioned about pulling one shim to see if it helps out any.
Hope this helps some
#738
#739
but you better be sure to calibrate the gun to the cooling head...these guns will read differently from engine to engine, so be sure the numbers you are using are actually accurate ! ..... However tuning to temps is the wrong way to tune... first being that there is no set temp for these engines to run, and secondly unless you calibrate the gun to the head you have no idea how accurate the gun is really reading..... Every time I go running the guys having the tuning issues are the guys using their temp guns......
#740
). Break-in is the only time I need a temp gun because I have the know-how to tune without one
OUCH!
#741
Breakin is an exception of course !...
but you better be sure to calibrate the gun to the cooling head...these guns will read differently from engine to engine, so be sure the numbers you are using are actually accurate ! ..... However tuning to temps is the wrong way to tune... first being that there is no set temp for these engines to run, and secondly unless you calibrate the gun to the head you have no idea how accurate the gun is really reading..... Every time I go running the guys having the tuning issues are the guys using their temp guns......
but you better be sure to calibrate the gun to the cooling head...these guns will read differently from engine to engine, so be sure the numbers you are using are actually accurate ! ..... However tuning to temps is the wrong way to tune... first being that there is no set temp for these engines to run, and secondly unless you calibrate the gun to the head you have no idea how accurate the gun is really reading..... Every time I go running the guys having the tuning issues are the guys using their temp guns......
#742
I really appreciate your help gents!
Got home yesterday, excited about removing a head shim and running the car, that soon turned into what the F, when my allen wrench broke and was stuck in the bolt, after standing there in disbelief, and trying to remove it, I gave up and ran the car.
It ran very well, I put tank after tank after tank thru it, for bout 30 minutes, and it only died twice, that happened just like it did before, but this time no gurggling sounds, just died.
So late lastnight I thought about what I should do to remove the bolt with the allen wrench in it, got a carbide ball file, chucked it up, ground down the bolt and allen wrench and drilled the fastener out, with no damage to the head or other parts what so ever...THANK YOU LUCK!
I removed one shim and will run it again today!
Got home yesterday, excited about removing a head shim and running the car, that soon turned into what the F, when my allen wrench broke and was stuck in the bolt, after standing there in disbelief, and trying to remove it, I gave up and ran the car.
It ran very well, I put tank after tank after tank thru it, for bout 30 minutes, and it only died twice, that happened just like it did before, but this time no gurggling sounds, just died.
So late lastnight I thought about what I should do to remove the bolt with the allen wrench in it, got a carbide ball file, chucked it up, ground down the bolt and allen wrench and drilled the fastener out, with no damage to the head or other parts what so ever...THANK YOU LUCK!
I removed one shim and will run it again today!
#744
I really appreciate your help gents!
Got home yesterday, excited about removing a head shim and running the car, that soon turned into what the F, when my allen wrench broke and was stuck in the bolt, after standing there in disbelief, and trying to remove it, I gave up and ran the car.
It ran very well, I put tank after tank after tank thru it, for bout 30 minutes, and it only died twice, that happened just like it did before, but this time no gurggling sounds, just died.
So late lastnight I thought about what I should do to remove the bolt with the allen wrench in it, got a carbide ball file, chucked it up, ground down the bolt and allen wrench and drilled the fastener out, with no damage to the head or other parts what so ever...THANK YOU LUCK!
I removed one shim and will run it again today!
Got home yesterday, excited about removing a head shim and running the car, that soon turned into what the F, when my allen wrench broke and was stuck in the bolt, after standing there in disbelief, and trying to remove it, I gave up and ran the car.
It ran very well, I put tank after tank after tank thru it, for bout 30 minutes, and it only died twice, that happened just like it did before, but this time no gurggling sounds, just died.
So late lastnight I thought about what I should do to remove the bolt with the allen wrench in it, got a carbide ball file, chucked it up, ground down the bolt and allen wrench and drilled the fastener out, with no damage to the head or other parts what so ever...THANK YOU LUCK!
I removed one shim and will run it again today!
#747
Just lean bottom a little bit, its good that it dies after sitting that long, sounds about right, Two cycle engines will load up at idle, this is normal, if it idles all day it wil run like crap, too lean, dont mess with it too much. When the engine is completely warmed up and cleaned out it should idle fairly stable till 20-30 seconds, then hit the gas, if it dies right away= too rich, if its crisp and strong= too lean, welcome to Nitro tuning Hell
You will get it
You will get it
#748
lol Billy, you just keep on toting that temp gun around and keep tweaking and fiddling with those needles chasing that perfect tune, while I'm out on the track driving my gear ( just like last year
). Break-in is the only time I need a temp gun because I have the know-how to tune without one
OUCH!
). Break-in is the only time I need a temp gun because I have the know-how to tune without one
OUCH!Listen to you! You are the fiddler. Besides Neal tunes your motors over the phone, does he not? Lmfao!!

Ah Billy, gotta love ya.....
#749
HELP!!!!
After running and running the car it started acting haywire. When I got the motor I did the seal aaround backplate and carb.
Today I did the leak check under water and it is leaking air from the Drum Barrel (Not the groove that is cut in it for the idle screw) but the small groove, yet the Idle screw itself isnt leaking.
I took the idle screw out to check the oring, and discovered that the end of the idle screw is all marred up.
I know I need to get a new idle screw, but what causes it to leak air from the groove. Could this part of the issue I am having?
After running and running the car it started acting haywire. When I got the motor I did the seal aaround backplate and carb.
Today I did the leak check under water and it is leaking air from the Drum Barrel (Not the groove that is cut in it for the idle screw) but the small groove, yet the Idle screw itself isnt leaking.
I took the idle screw out to check the oring, and discovered that the end of the idle screw is all marred up.
I know I need to get a new idle screw, but what causes it to leak air from the groove. Could this part of the issue I am having?



