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Old 04-16-2010 | 09:46 PM
  #2836  
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Originally Posted by fordstang50
hi ron.a main has been out of 30% werks fuel for about a month.do you have any idea when they will be receiving another shipment?running low and would perfer to keep using the werks fuel.
We sent a fresh shipment of 30% out that should be there on Thursday or Friday!
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Old 04-16-2010 | 09:53 PM
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Ron, I'm not takin any chances tomorrow... Arizona Championship series finals, and I'm sitting 19th in points tomorrow's race is good for 1.5Xpoints, and there's a 30 min A main that i'm gunning for...

got a new werks plug and it'll be my first run with it. new fuel lines, new exhaust gaskets, new clutch shoes and springs and bearings... if i don't get into the A main, i'll surely be givin em hell in the B
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Old 04-17-2010 | 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Werks
We sent a fresh shipment of 30% out that should be there on Thursday or Friday!





thanks ron.
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Old 04-17-2010 | 03:24 PM
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Quick question. I'm ordering a B5 w/ a 2057 for a back-up. I normally run odo97T plugs. What are good "go to" needle settings after break. I'm usually a Nova guy but heard so many good things about this engine, and the price is right. Just like to have a good base line setting for race tune. Thanks
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Old 04-17-2010 | 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Miniracer23
Quick question. I'm ordering a B5 w/ a 2057 for a back-up. I normally run odo97T plugs. What are good "go to" needle settings after break. I'm usually a Nova guy but heard so many good things about this engine, and the price is right. Just like to have a good base line setting for race tune. Thanks

From the stock flush high and flush low A race tune obviously will vary a bit depending on location,temp,etc.. but the ballpark with the 2057 pipe and WERKS 30% is 1-11/2 turn in on top and half turn to 1 turn in on bottom. These will not be exact but will be in the ball park.
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Old 04-17-2010 | 05:05 PM
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We had a friday night lights race last night and i won ever round in pro truggy and had almost a lap on the field in the main and my motor flamed out i am using a od 97 plug and werks 30% fuel and the motor ran awsome all day it was a little fat on bottum and i have around 5 gallons on the motor.
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Old 04-17-2010 | 05:15 PM
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Just got back from racing the B5. B5 is going on 3 gallons and has never flamed out. Ran a 30 min A-main with no problems. Lead the last 15 min till the last lap when my front brakes faded and the tires were completly bald.
B5=AWESOME............
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Old 04-17-2010 | 05:15 PM
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Ron,

did you get my PM.
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Old 04-17-2010 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by DPowers
We had a friday night lights race last night and i won ever round in pro truggy and had almost a lap on the field in the main and my motor flamed out i am using a od 97 plug and werks 30% fuel and the motor ran awsome all day it was a little fat on bottum and i have around 5 gallons on the motor.
Dennis, we touched on this last time we spoke just lean the bottom out. Running a fat bottom does nothing but result inthe issues that you are experiencing here. Running a fat bottom or I should say LS reAly serves no practical purpose and if you are doing this to reduce bottom end (I don't know that you are but if you are) this is not the way to do it, run a softer clutch set up or somethng. See one of the things that I realy learned from running 1/8th on-road is that your driving style affects the temps that your motor runs at. I'm mentioning this because most people have a tendenccy to tune their engines in practice, well when your in practice (or in a 5-10 minute qualifier) we subconsiously drive more agressively, this results in your engine running hotter.

So now a 30-45 minute main comes along and your engine is tuned for how you were driving or you fatten the bottom a tad "just to be safe". Everything seems good and for the first 5-10 or 15 minutes you are driving as you normaly would, then you get "into the groove", things click, you've lost those pre-race jitter and are driving realy smooth and laying down some realy consistent laps. Guess what, your engine is now probably running about 10-15 degrees cooler. So now your fat bottom is even fatter and guess what, your idle is now lower because of that. So... Your now all the more likely to flame out which in this case is exactly what happened!

Allways set you bottom so that it is correct and if you tune by the system that I recomend it allways will be. If you want to be a little safe run a slightly rich top. Worst case scenario during a main if it starts to seem fat you can start using the throttle more agressively which will heat up the engine and lean it out. Alternatively if during a main you find that your engine is too lean (which you might notice because it is running on a bit or loosing a bit of punch) just back off the throttle a tad (say 2/10ths) for a lap or two and your engine will cool down and start running normal again so you can start driving agressive again. These are some ofnthe things that the pro's know and if you keep them in mind when tuning as well as driving it will help you have a better understanding of what is going on with your engine and why it is happening. Hope this helps!

Regards,

Ron
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Old 04-17-2010 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by srt4s
Ron,

did you get my PM.
Just checked and not seeing anything from you, please re-send.
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Old 04-17-2010 | 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by BigNasty
Ron, I'm not takin any chances tomorrow... Arizona Championship series finals, and I'm sitting 19th in points tomorrow's race is good for 1.5Xpoints, and there's a 30 min A main that i'm gunning for...

got a new werks plug and it'll be my first run with it. new fuel lines, new exhaust gaskets, new clutch shoes and springs and bearings... if i don't get into the A main, i'll surely be givin em hell in the B

Hey BigNasty, how'd it go today???
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Old 04-17-2010 | 05:40 PM
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You are an absolute genius at explaining the technical aspects of a nitro engine, Ron.
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Old 04-17-2010 | 05:41 PM
  #2848  
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Originally Posted by Werks
Dennis, we touched on this last time we spoke just lean the bottom out. Running a fat bottom does nothing but result inthe issues that you are experiencing here. Running a fat bottom or I should say LS reAly serves no practical purpose and if you are doing this to reduce bottom end (I don't know that you are but if you are) this is not the way to do it, run a softer clutch set up or somethng. See one of the things that I realy learned from running 1/8th on-road is that your driving style affects the temps that your motor runs at. I'm mentioning this because most people have a tendenccy to tune their engines in practice, well when your in practice (or in a 5-10 minute qualifier) we subconsiously drive more agressively, this results in your engine running hotter.

So now a 30-45 minute main comes along and your engine is tuned for how you were driving or you fatten the bottom a tad "just to be safe". Everything seems good and for the first 5-10 or 15 minutes you are driving as you normaly would, then you get "into the groove", things click, you've lost those pre-race jitter and are driving realy smooth and laying down some realy consistent laps. Guess what, your engine is now probably running about 10-15 degrees cooler. So now your fat bottom is even fatter and guess what, your idle is now lower because of that. So... Your now all the more likely to flame out which in this case is exactly what happened!

Allways set you bottom so that it is correct and if you tune by the system that I recomend it allways will be. If you want to be a little safe run a slightly rich top. Worst case scenario during a main if it starts to seem fat you can start using the throttle more agressively which will heat up the engine and lean it out. Alternatively if during a main you find that your engine is too lean (which you might notice because it is running on a bit or loosing a bit of punch) just back off the throttle a tad (say 2/10ths) for a lap or two and your engine will cool down and start running normal again so you can start driving agressive again. These are some ofnthe things that the pro's know and if you keep them in mind when tuning as well as driving it will help you have a better understanding of what is going on with your engine and why it is happening. Hope this helps!

Regards,

Ron
Yeah i new i needed to lean it an hr or two but it ran fine for the 5 minutes qualifiers but i see what your saying but they did mention werks about 30 times lol while i was whooping some but and the fuel is some good stuff my motor ran cooler versus the byrons.
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Old 04-17-2010 | 05:47 PM
  #2849  
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Just ordered my B5,2013 and 2 werks plugs!Thats one more B5 comin to Canada!! Cant wait to get it goin!!
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Old 04-17-2010 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Semple
You are an absolute genius at explaining the technical aspects of a nitro engine, Ron.
Lol, thanks I try! Now if uncoils just make my fat thumbs a little thinner I might stop hitting the wrong buttons on my iPhone so I would not look like I can't spell lol!
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