The New Werks B5 .21 Racing Engine
#2836
We sent a fresh shipment of 30% out that should be there on Thursday or Friday!
#2837
Ron, I'm not takin any chances tomorrow... Arizona Championship series finals, and I'm sitting 19th in points
tomorrow's race is good for 1.5Xpoints, and there's a 30 min A main that i'm gunning for...
got a new werks plug and it'll be my first run with it. new fuel lines, new exhaust gaskets, new clutch shoes and springs and bearings... if i don't get into the A main, i'll surely be givin em hell in the B

tomorrow's race is good for 1.5Xpoints, and there's a 30 min A main that i'm gunning for... got a new werks plug and it'll be my first run with it. new fuel lines, new exhaust gaskets, new clutch shoes and springs and bearings... if i don't get into the A main, i'll surely be givin em hell in the B


#2839
Tech Addict
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 544
Quick question. I'm ordering a B5 w/ a 2057 for a back-up. I normally run odo97T plugs. What are good "go to" needle settings after break. I'm usually a Nova guy but heard so many good things about this engine, and the price is right. Just like to have a good base line setting for race tune. Thanks
#2840
Tech Addict
iTrader: (22)
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 587
Quick question. I'm ordering a B5 w/ a 2057 for a back-up. I normally run odo97T plugs. What are good "go to" needle settings after break. I'm usually a Nova guy but heard so many good things about this engine, and the price is right. Just like to have a good base line setting for race tune. Thanks
From the stock flush high and flush low A race tune obviously will vary a bit depending on location,temp,etc.. but the ballpark with the 2057 pipe and WERKS 30% is 1-11/2 turn in on top and half turn to 1 turn in on bottom. These will not be exact but will be in the ball park.
#2841
We had a friday night lights race last night and i won ever round in pro truggy and had almost a lap on the field in the main and my motor flamed out i am using a od 97 plug and werks 30% fuel and the motor ran awsome all day it was a little fat on bottum and i have around 5 gallons on the motor.
#2842
Tech Adept
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 118
Just got back from racing the B5. B5 is going on 3 gallons and has never flamed out. Ran a 30 min A-main with no problems. Lead the last 15 min till the last lap when my front brakes faded and the tires were completly bald.
B5=AWESOME............
B5=AWESOME............
#2844
We had a friday night lights race last night and i won ever round in pro truggy and had almost a lap on the field in the main and my motor flamed out i am using a od 97 plug and werks 30% fuel and the motor ran awsome all day it was a little fat on bottum and i have around 5 gallons on the motor.
So now a 30-45 minute main comes along and your engine is tuned for how you were driving or you fatten the bottom a tad "just to be safe". Everything seems good and for the first 5-10 or 15 minutes you are driving as you normaly would, then you get "into the groove", things click, you've lost those pre-race jitter and are driving realy smooth and laying down some realy consistent laps. Guess what, your engine is now probably running about 10-15 degrees cooler. So now your fat bottom is even fatter and guess what, your idle is now lower because of that. So... Your now all the more likely to flame out which in this case is exactly what happened!
Allways set you bottom so that it is correct and if you tune by the system that I recomend it allways will be. If you want to be a little safe run a slightly rich top. Worst case scenario during a main if it starts to seem fat you can start using the throttle more agressively which will heat up the engine and lean it out. Alternatively if during a main you find that your engine is too lean (which you might notice because it is running on a bit or loosing a bit of punch) just back off the throttle a tad (say 2/10ths) for a lap or two and your engine will cool down and start running normal again so you can start driving agressive again. These are some ofnthe things that the pro's know and if you keep them in mind when tuning as well as driving it will help you have a better understanding of what is going on with your engine and why it is happening. Hope this helps!
Regards,
Ron
#2846
Ron, I'm not takin any chances tomorrow... Arizona Championship series finals, and I'm sitting 19th in points
tomorrow's race is good for 1.5Xpoints, and there's a 30 min A main that i'm gunning for...
got a new werks plug and it'll be my first run with it. new fuel lines, new exhaust gaskets, new clutch shoes and springs and bearings... if i don't get into the A main, i'll surely be givin em hell in the B


tomorrow's race is good for 1.5Xpoints, and there's a 30 min A main that i'm gunning for... got a new werks plug and it'll be my first run with it. new fuel lines, new exhaust gaskets, new clutch shoes and springs and bearings... if i don't get into the A main, i'll surely be givin em hell in the B



Hey BigNasty, how'd it go today???
#2848
Dennis, we touched on this last time we spoke just lean the bottom out. Running a fat bottom does nothing but result inthe issues that you are experiencing here. Running a fat bottom or I should say LS reAly serves no practical purpose and if you are doing this to reduce bottom end (I don't know that you are but if you are) this is not the way to do it, run a softer clutch set up or somethng. See one of the things that I realy learned from running 1/8th on-road is that your driving style affects the temps that your motor runs at. I'm mentioning this because most people have a tendenccy to tune their engines in practice, well when your in practice (or in a 5-10 minute qualifier) we subconsiously drive more agressively, this results in your engine running hotter.
So now a 30-45 minute main comes along and your engine is tuned for how you were driving or you fatten the bottom a tad "just to be safe". Everything seems good and for the first 5-10 or 15 minutes you are driving as you normaly would, then you get "into the groove", things click, you've lost those pre-race jitter and are driving realy smooth and laying down some realy consistent laps. Guess what, your engine is now probably running about 10-15 degrees cooler. So now your fat bottom is even fatter and guess what, your idle is now lower because of that. So... Your now all the more likely to flame out which in this case is exactly what happened!
Allways set you bottom so that it is correct and if you tune by the system that I recomend it allways will be. If you want to be a little safe run a slightly rich top. Worst case scenario during a main if it starts to seem fat you can start using the throttle more agressively which will heat up the engine and lean it out. Alternatively if during a main you find that your engine is too lean (which you might notice because it is running on a bit or loosing a bit of punch) just back off the throttle a tad (say 2/10ths) for a lap or two and your engine will cool down and start running normal again so you can start driving agressive again. These are some ofnthe things that the pro's know and if you keep them in mind when tuning as well as driving it will help you have a better understanding of what is going on with your engine and why it is happening. Hope this helps!
Regards,
Ron
So now a 30-45 minute main comes along and your engine is tuned for how you were driving or you fatten the bottom a tad "just to be safe". Everything seems good and for the first 5-10 or 15 minutes you are driving as you normaly would, then you get "into the groove", things click, you've lost those pre-race jitter and are driving realy smooth and laying down some realy consistent laps. Guess what, your engine is now probably running about 10-15 degrees cooler. So now your fat bottom is even fatter and guess what, your idle is now lower because of that. So... Your now all the more likely to flame out which in this case is exactly what happened!
Allways set you bottom so that it is correct and if you tune by the system that I recomend it allways will be. If you want to be a little safe run a slightly rich top. Worst case scenario during a main if it starts to seem fat you can start using the throttle more agressively which will heat up the engine and lean it out. Alternatively if during a main you find that your engine is too lean (which you might notice because it is running on a bit or loosing a bit of punch) just back off the throttle a tad (say 2/10ths) for a lap or two and your engine will cool down and start running normal again so you can start driving agressive again. These are some ofnthe things that the pro's know and if you keep them in mind when tuning as well as driving it will help you have a better understanding of what is going on with your engine and why it is happening. Hope this helps!
Regards,
Ron
#2850



63Likes