isn't it a parma 8hd?

Hey Brian,

Sure looks like a P35 to me. In what ways was yours different? IIRC there were two versions of the P35, one with an extra hump between the cockpit and the front fenders, and one with just a smooth curve. The one with the hump came out later to help clear some of the higher front ends and let people mount it lower.

You coming to the nats at Norcal in August?

-James

Is this scenario familiar to you?

Our Xray XII Link version has a strong tendency to lift the inside rear tyre in tight corners.
-driving mod on carpet
-carpet is not bumpy
-traction is medium to high
-tyres front 2xpink 39-40mm rear pink 41-42mm.
-tracktion compound front inside 25% 10 minutes rear

Which way should I start looking for to fix this
-harder compound tyre in front? takes away steering
-shorter additive time?
-center spring+oil, side shock oil and side springs are standard. Should it be harder?
-something else

That is a common thing when your side dampening is too thick. Try a lighter oil or softer side springs.

Since I'm the one who bought this painted body I thought might as well clear up the mystery.

It is the Protoform Nissan P35 ( 1603R ) body , I just bought a BNIB one
in the Netherlands to have this one as spare body and to paint the other myself as a training body.

They are hard to find but search and you might find one on the web .

Erik

To me it does look a mercedes and it might not have been made by Protoform at all but by a company called Andy's. I don't have any bodies to compare with but the sides of the rear wing look a bit wrong for the Protoform, I seem to remember the vertical sides towards the rear of the PF be smooth with no ridge on the side of the body near the rear wheels.

-------Mitch

Try reducing the camber on your front end.

.

Hi!

Try read this blog:
http://markpayneblog.blogspot.com/se...a%2012th%20Car

Btw, I do in 1st step balance r/l on hudy pin tool and then only correct
tweak by screws (t-bar 12L4 or screws for springs preload in my 12R5.1 ae).



Don't worry it take some time

Good luck!
M.

What I try to do is get the car balanced left to right and fore and aft during the build by the placement of the components on the chassis. Put your batteries in the chassis and then using either balance buttons or four mini scales and then start laying out your electronics. (Only the mini scales will measure fore aft weighting.) I try and do the chassis separate from the motor pod as it is easier to get the chassis balanced. The motor pod is what it is. To balance the pod you would have to add or remove material. Be careful about removing material from the motor. Some classes do not allow that kind of modification. After you have the car as balanced as you can get it, then with the car ready to go on the track, put the car on a tweak station. The balance beam type. We found that balancing from behind with the rear of the car on the balance beam produces a better setting. Make sure the rear tires diameter matched and the front tire diameter matches. I also disconnect the dampener tubes or side shock if you are using any as they can make getting the perfect setting harder. Use the set screws in the T bar to adjust. If you are using a link car then you can move the side springs up and down but we found that with link cars, you just have to have matching tires left to right and then back the springs off of the links or bottom plate of the motor pod so they are just clearing. Don’t forget to reconnect your dampener tubes or side shock. Been there, done that!!

Balancing the chassis is very important. You can use tweak screws to cover up chassis imbalance but being that you are preloading one side more than the other, the car will carve harder in 1 direction than the other due to uneven spring rates( springs are progressive and ramp up in spring rate as they are compressed). For this reason, you want to balance your car race ready before messing with tweak. This will yield the best results.

Try making the rear end of your car wider. Also, I would try going one or two steps heavier on your side springs.

I have a 1:12th scale on road car.

Was wondering what gear ratio i should run with a 4 cell nimh and a tamiya 23Turn RZ brushed motor. just approx.

thanks.

*Snigger* Dontcha just love the know-alls! *Snigger*