63LikesThe New Werks B5 .21 Racing Engine
03-17-2010 | 05:01 PM
#2162
I will help but you should really be posting this on your own thread in regards to every item that isnt werks as this is a werks thread.
On the buggy. Take your pick Losi 8 2.0, Mugen mbx6, Associated RC8 B, X Ray. I would recommend picking a buggy that is very popular at your local track and you local hobby shop for parts support. The above buggies are capable. They are all different and suit specific driving styles.
For your servos pick two of these up:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Digital-Servo
For a starter box go with this one:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...er-Starter-Box
Battery for Starter box:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Charger-Combo
Glow plug Ignitor:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ot-Shot-2-Long
For a radio these two are very popular:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...d-Racing-Radio
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...stem-No-Servos
Tools I would go with Hudy Depending on the buggy you pick you will have to select standard or metric:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...iver-Set-8-pcs
These items above are just the tip of the iceberg. There are many other nick nack things that you will need to get.
On the buggy. Take your pick Losi 8 2.0, Mugen mbx6, Associated RC8 B, X Ray. I would recommend picking a buggy that is very popular at your local track and you local hobby shop for parts support. The above buggies are capable. They are all different and suit specific driving styles.
For your servos pick two of these up:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Digital-Servo
For a starter box go with this one:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...er-Starter-Box
Battery for Starter box:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Charger-Combo
Glow plug Ignitor:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ot-Shot-2-Long
For a radio these two are very popular:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...d-Racing-Radio
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...stem-No-Servos
Tools I would go with Hudy Depending on the buggy you pick you will have to select standard or metric:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...iver-Set-8-pcs
These items above are just the tip of the iceberg. There are many other nick nack things that you will need to get.
Great post, it took a lot of research to find all this stuff to "collect" this stuff on my own. Now you've got it all - one stop shopping.
As for the B5, I received mine today and am getting my tools together to install into my 8T2.0
03-17-2010 | 05:11 PM
#2163
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 357
Werks 2013 Pipe for sale!!
If anyone is interested, I have a brand new Werks 2013 pipe for sale!
It's the 2010' version and I'm asking $85 shipped. It's an opened item but has never produced a puff of smoke.
P.M. me if interested. I will gladly send you my ebay info. I have over 270/100% feedback!
Paypal is prefered!
SOLD!!! and fast too!
It's the 2010' version and I'm asking $85 shipped. It's an opened item but has never produced a puff of smoke.
P.M. me if interested. I will gladly send you my ebay info. I have over 270/100% feedback!
Paypal is prefered!
SOLD!!! and fast too!
Last edited by HyperB5; 03-17-2010 at 05:47 PM.
03-17-2010 | 06:58 PM
#2165
Got the engine this evening and I'm beyond excited to set it up. However, I've run into a little snag.
I have an 8ight T 2.0 RTR flywheel/clutchbell assembly and when I tighten the screw against the clutchbell (to secure the whole assembly), it locks the clutchbell against the flywheel.
I've read in one thread that also had the forward clutch bearing recessed ~0.65mm and that putting a washer behind the collet and the OWB would help.
Just in case my explanation isn't good enough.
Is there a flywheel/collet setup I can use with my clutchbell where this won't be an issue?
Thanks ahead of time.
-David
I have an 8ight T 2.0 RTR flywheel/clutchbell assembly and when I tighten the screw against the clutchbell (to secure the whole assembly), it locks the clutchbell against the flywheel.
I've read in one thread that also had the forward clutch bearing recessed ~0.65mm and that putting a washer behind the collet and the OWB would help.
Just in case my explanation isn't good enough.
Is there a flywheel/collet setup I can use with my clutchbell where this won't be an issue?
Thanks ahead of time.
-David
03-17-2010 | 07:11 PM
#2166
Judging by your photo, your going to need some shimming washers, and put them against the lock nut that goes over the collet on the crankshaft. This will push the bell assembly forward. You have alot of play between the clutchbell and the screw. The shims will push the clutch bell forward and clear the flywheel. By the looks of it, you will need 2 maybe three washers.
If your not sure what washers, get the Team Associated shim kit from amain hobbies. The washers fit perfectly on this engine.
Hopefully this helps.
If your not sure what washers, get the Team Associated shim kit from amain hobbies. The washers fit perfectly on this engine.
Hopefully this helps.
03-17-2010 | 07:11 PM
#2167
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (25)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 966
From: Wauconda, IL
Well I just got home from running my first 2 tanks through my new B5. This is the very first time that I have ever had an engine fire up on the very first try, and man did it sound good.
Tomorrow I'm going to run another 5 or 6 tanks in it and see how it go's but I can tell already that this engine might have just taken the place of my wife in our bed LOL..
Only 1 question about my tune that i have on it right now, when I get off the gas it revs up and then starts to dye down could one of you point me in the right direction of what would cause this. I'm not a pro engine tuner so little thing like that throw me for a loop.
Thank you WERKS Racing
Tomorrow I'm going to run another 5 or 6 tanks in it and see how it go's but I can tell already that this engine might have just taken the place of my wife in our bed LOL..
Only 1 question about my tune that i have on it right now, when I get off the gas it revs up and then starts to dye down could one of you point me in the right direction of what would cause this. I'm not a pro engine tuner so little thing like that throw me for a loop.
Thank you WERKS Racing
03-17-2010 | 07:41 PM
#2169
Got the engine this evening and I'm beyond excited to set it up. However, I've run into a little snag.
I have an 8ight T 2.0 RTR flywheel/clutchbell assembly and when I tighten the screw against the clutchbell (to secure the whole assembly), it locks the clutchbell against the flywheel.
I've read in one thread that also had the forward clutch bearing recessed ~0.65mm and that putting a washer behind the collet and the OWB would help.
Just in case my explanation isn't good enough.
Is there a flywheel/collet setup I can use with my clutchbell where this won't be an issue?
Thanks ahead of time.
-David
I have an 8ight T 2.0 RTR flywheel/clutchbell assembly and when I tighten the screw against the clutchbell (to secure the whole assembly), it locks the clutchbell against the flywheel.
I've read in one thread that also had the forward clutch bearing recessed ~0.65mm and that putting a washer behind the collet and the OWB would help.
Just in case my explanation isn't good enough.
Is there a flywheel/collet setup I can use with my clutchbell where this won't be an issue?
Thanks ahead of time.
-David
- losi collet/flywheel are fine, you will always need to run the losi collet if you're running a losi clutch setup
- see the clutch spacer in the picture - you need this, it's not just a washer
- use a flat head screw like in the picture, using a cap head screw can potentially wear against the losi fuel tank
- if you do all of the above, add shims behind the bell to get it to clear the flywheel, and in front of the bell to get .25 to .50mm play.
The part numbers are on the picture as well if you need these parts, this kit is handy to have...
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...dware-8ight-20
03-17-2010 | 07:45 PM
#2170
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (25)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 966
From: Wauconda, IL
Schmitty: Thank you that's what I thought it was only running at about 158 max that I saw on a temp gun but man did it have crazy bottom end when I hit the throttle just a little bit. Never pulled it full throttle yet but man I was tempted.
I will run the 5 or 6 tanks the way it is and then start to lean it out.
I will run the 5 or 6 tanks the way it is and then start to lean it out.
03-17-2010 | 08:06 PM
#2172
See attached pic.
- losi collet/flywheel are fine, you will always need to run the losi collet if you're running a losi clutch setup
- see the clutch spacer in the picture - you need this, it's not just a washer
- use a flat head screw like in the picture, using a cap head screw can potentially wear against the losi fuel tank
- if you do all of the above, add shims behind the bell to get it to clear the flywheel, and in front of the bell to get .25 to .50mm play.
The part numbers are on the picture as well if you need these parts, this kit is handy to have...
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...dware-8ight-20
- losi collet/flywheel are fine, you will always need to run the losi collet if you're running a losi clutch setup
- see the clutch spacer in the picture - you need this, it's not just a washer
- use a flat head screw like in the picture, using a cap head screw can potentially wear against the losi fuel tank
- if you do all of the above, add shims behind the bell to get it to clear the flywheel, and in front of the bell to get .25 to .50mm play.
The part numbers are on the picture as well if you need these parts, this kit is handy to have...
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...dware-8ight-20
03-17-2010 | 08:08 PM
#2173
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 357
Schmitty: Thank you that's what I thought it was only running at about 158 max that I saw on a temp gun but man did it have crazy bottom end when I hit the throttle just a little bit. Never pulled it full throttle yet but man I was tempted.
I will run the 5 or 6 tanks the way it is and then start to lean it out.
I will run the 5 or 6 tanks the way it is and then start to lean it out.
03-17-2010 | 09:02 PM
#2174
To get the correct play on the bell sometimes it takes one, two, or three shims behind the last screw that goes on the bell.
03-17-2010 | 09:11 PM
#2175
Your probably going to have to play with it a bit. Another thing to look for is when you do have enough space the bell should just have a small gap from the flywheel.
To get the correct play on the bell sometimes it takes one, two, or three shims behind the last screw that goes on the bell.
To get the correct play on the bell sometimes it takes one, two, or three shims behind the last screw that goes on the bell.
I'm going to add another shim on the front of the CB and then "snug" the screw until there is a tiny bit of friction between the two (CB and flywheel). I'll hold it all together w/ Loc-tite.
Thanks for the help.