tmaxx bulkhead issues
#1
Thread Starter
Tech Rookie
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 18
every time I run my 2.5 t-maxx the rear bulkhead loosens up .... I have a aluminum bulkhead and the aluminum trusses underneith, and aluminum skidplates..... I don't have to even hit anything just running it around and it will get so loose the top screws fall out
. I've tried changing screws to the allen head style .. its fustratign .
. going to pull the back completely off and see if there is crud in the joint that might be causign it .....
Any ideas ?.... the only thing I can think of is thread locker .... but easy as these screws strip ... might not be a good idea......... any one else have this issue ?
. I've tried changing screws to the allen head style .. its fustratign .
. going to pull the back completely off and see if there is crud in the joint that might be causign it ..... Any ideas ?.... the only thing I can think of is thread locker .... but easy as these screws strip ... might not be a good idea......... any one else have this issue ?
#2
Ever considered replacing them screws with 12.9 grade hex heads? Screws going into metal will shake themselves loose unless you threadlock.
There are downsides of course; 12.9 grade screws rust. Can't beat them for functionality and practicality tho.
DF
There are downsides of course; 12.9 grade screws rust. Can't beat them for functionality and practicality tho.
DF
#3
Thread Starter
Tech Rookie
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 18
where do I get those ?.. mine is a bashin truck anyways.... might need to use some elastomer on the threads to keeps from steel to aluminum issues. that does sound like a good idea .... might just solve it .. gets old pulling the engine all the time
#4
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 11,530
From: Houston, TX
You need to use a med thread locker. It will stop the loosening nad will not cause anything to strip when you remove them. I use blue loctite and don't have screws coming loose. Don't use the red - it is semi permanent!
You need to start with clean, grease free screws and screw holes. I use a shot of motor spray (alcohol will work too) to clean the screws and holes before applying loctite. Use a cleaner that is evaporating so it doesn't interfere with the loctite curing. Loctite needs some time to set also - don't apply and expect it to cure instantly, it doesn't. Depending on temp, it needs a few to several hrs. I usually try to let mine cure overnite, that way I'm sure its set.
I use Tony's Screw kits - 1st thing I do to a new RC, replace everything with high strength alloy steel hex heads. Tony also sells individual screws.
You need to start with clean, grease free screws and screw holes. I use a shot of motor spray (alcohol will work too) to clean the screws and holes before applying loctite. Use a cleaner that is evaporating so it doesn't interfere with the loctite curing. Loctite needs some time to set also - don't apply and expect it to cure instantly, it doesn't. Depending on temp, it needs a few to several hrs. I usually try to let mine cure overnite, that way I'm sure its set.
I use Tony's Screw kits - 1st thing I do to a new RC, replace everything with high strength alloy steel hex heads. Tony also sells individual screws.
#6
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 11,530
From: Houston, TX
Those screws sound like they're SS ones? They are soft and the heads will strip after a few uses. The alloy steel ones - heads don't strip out even after many uses. The other thing - you need a really good hex driver, something that has hardened tip. It might be your wrenches that are rounding off. I use Thorp drivers, expensive, but they last.
#7
Thread Starter
Tech Rookie
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 18
Yeah its the SS ones. its the dam screw heads that strip out grrrrrrrrrrrrr ...... at least I didn't buy the 25.00 set .... where can I get the good alloy steel ones ?... I've already had to dremel out 3 of these cheap pieces of crap .....
I really do appreciate all the help on this small yet fustrating issue
I really do appreciate all the help on this small yet fustrating issue
#8
If you don't mind the rust, Tony's Screws are great.
If you have a slightly higher budget, Hexcrews's AP 12.9 bright nickel plated screws are a good alternative. These more expensive screws are more corrosion resistant than regular black oxide kit.
DF
If you have a slightly higher budget, Hexcrews's AP 12.9 bright nickel plated screws are a good alternative. These more expensive screws are more corrosion resistant than regular black oxide kit.
DF
#10
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 11,530
From: Houston, TX
Guess I'm unusual in that I seem to take enough care of mine, they don't rust. Maybe its the denat/Simple Green cleaning mix I use or the WD 40 spray/wipe down, but the screws I get from Tony do not rust.
Maybe its their blackoxide coating....
Maybe its their blackoxide coating....
#12
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,039
From: San Diego, CA
You need to use a med thread locker. It will stop the loosening nad will not cause anything to strip when you remove them. I use blue loctite and don't have screws coming loose. Don't use the red - it is semi permanent!
You need to start with clean, grease free screws and screw holes. I use a shot of motor spray (alcohol will work too) to clean the screws and holes before applying loctite. Use a cleaner that is evaporating so it doesn't interfere with the loctite curing. Loctite needs some time to set also - don't apply and expect it to cure instantly, it doesn't. Depending on temp, it needs a few to several hrs. I usually try to let mine cure overnite, that way I'm sure its set.
I use Tony's Screw kits - 1st thing I do to a new RC, replace everything with high strength alloy steel hex heads. Tony also sells individual screws.
You need to start with clean, grease free screws and screw holes. I use a shot of motor spray (alcohol will work too) to clean the screws and holes before applying loctite. Use a cleaner that is evaporating so it doesn't interfere with the loctite curing. Loctite needs some time to set also - don't apply and expect it to cure instantly, it doesn't. Depending on temp, it needs a few to several hrs. I usually try to let mine cure overnite, that way I'm sure its set.
I use Tony's Screw kits - 1st thing I do to a new RC, replace everything with high strength alloy steel hex heads. Tony also sells individual screws.
All you need as Duster said is some loctite. Takes very little and you'll never have the issue again. You should ALWAYS use blue loctite on ANY metal to metal connection on the chassis.
#13
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 11,530
From: Houston, TX
Tony's or Hexcrews won't do that. I've been using Tony's kits for several yrs and I'm getting ready to order another.




