magenta magenta cut right best, and get a new car parts are hard to come by sometimes for the older cars.

Come see me Thursday night or Sunday and I will either cut some for you or show you how to do it yourself. Better yet, I will give you a set of smaller tires to run to see if it makes a difference. I find it odd that your left rear is doing that considering the current layout. All of the fast corners are right handers and the outside boards are on the right. You might check the body to see if the wheel wells are cut out enough and not causing that.

I think a major portion of the peeling/chunking issues being seen is the extreme speed that the cars are going now and the extra load put on the side walls. We would rarely see this in the old days and actually, most of this started when all the companies started making the rims bigger. Not sure how that could cause the problem, just an observation.

I've had the best luck cutting rears to 43mm to start and super glueing the sidewalls a little along with rounding over the edges. I think this not only helps keep the foam from separating but actually frees up the car a little to eliminate some of the side wall stress that can tear the foam. I know that Drew and I are both running yellow and orange rears and not having the extreme issues that you show in your picture. Sure, we will get an occasional chunk or peel but not like that.

And to Jack, if the manufacturer of the rims can't fix this, you should be looking for a new vendor. I doubt that Assoc., Losi or Xray would accept those tolerances. I know I wouldn't. If the material being used is shrinking that much after shipping, I would think the rims would be out of round as well. Sounds more like a mold issue to me as any competent injection molding company would factor the shrinkage into the mold design from the beginning. Other than the bearing issue, I like the newer rim design.

True, but the 12l4 parts will work and upgrade the 12l3 if money is tight as it is for a lot of us. CRC and these guys have parts readily available; http://www.losipartshouse.com/servlet/StoreFront
LPH are great people to deal with! Fast shipping and live inventory help make it all good.

That's exactly what I do...we run 2 quals and a main so I only need 3 sets of dbl pink all around...but running on asphalt I don't get as much races out of them...I usually end up replacing tires about every 4 to 5 races.

I was talking about the rears.

the only thing that you might have trouble with is mounting the brushless motor into the pod. some are longer and then there is the sensor wire. i think maybe the new novak ballistics may be a good candidate for an 12l3 pod

The hardest part will be mounting the brushless motor in the rear pod, but I wouldn't rule out the possibility of getting a brushless setup to fit properly. I had a CRC Carpet Knife 3.2R that required minimal modifications to the left side pod plate to accept the sensor wire, otherwise the motor fit without any problems. You'll probably be limited to using very small spur gears (72-74 teeth), and you'll also be limited in your choice of gear ratios due to the limited space. I'd borrow a brushless motor from a fellow racer, install it in the pod to see where mods need to be made, and proceed if it seems that you'd be able to perform the modifications while allowing the suspension to work properly.

LiPo battery selection will be limited to the new SpeedZone 1S LiPo saddle pack - racers have tried other adaptations, but use of the new saddle pack is really the way to go.

While most bodies will "fit", stick to the ProtoForm AMR-12 since it has the most room for motor wiring and proper side-to-side pod articulation.

Hope this helps - better get the Dremel ready!!!

No worries. I ran a Nosram/LRP X11 10.5 in an original L3 rear pod and IRS Rug Rat without any issues. Didn't have to modify anything. I've now installed a CRC lowered pod to be able to drop the rear axle and use smaller tires, also without any issues. I still use 4 NiMh cells, but will purchase the Speedzone saddle pack lipo for next season.
Go for it!

Thanks Steve,
I'll run you down Sunday.
Cheers,
Jeff

+ (another!) 1

Doesn't work! After two or three laps tyres pick up the traction from the line on the carpet, and the whole tyre is working with the additive. When you sauce half the front tyre, test it when it comes off - it has the same traction across the whole width!

Understood - in which case all my tyres chunk, and you can sleep easy in your bed!! Like I said, this isn't a complaint, just some information. I have no problem with your product, whatever colour wheel it comes on!

Jack, have you heard we have a problem with the hole in the centre of the rear wheel being too big??!! (Sorry, couldn't resist that smart remark!) I received some today, following batches received in the last three months, and none of them 'click' onto my truer mandrel like the early batches received in the middle of last year. I have a temporary fix for the fronts, so its now just a mild irritation, but the rears are not so easy to fix, and the tyres do run out of true if you don't get them right.

I agree with others about the speeds of the cars, and the extra grip we have using modern tyres. My car now has 200 watts of power that I can use for eight minutes. Ten years ago it had about 120 watts of power that I couldn't use for eight minutes or it would go flat. Guess what has taken up that slack - the tyre!

Again, Jack, thanks for coming on here and being helpful, it's very brave. Bearing holes are a glitch - form is temporary, class is permanent!

I consider the chunking to be my fault.

But, the bearing fit on the front wheels is a bit loose.
Also the rear wheels require a bit of work to run true.

I've found the front wheel bearing fit to be a problem, but haven't encountered the issue with the rear tires. I'm using small strips of masking tape to take up the slack in the bearing bores, which tightens things up nicely.

And yes, I too consider chunking my fault.

Jack,

Like InspGadget and SlowerOne said, thanks for coming on and taking interest. In my original description, I streamlined my process to try to chunk down the length of my post. Yes, I've been doing this (R/C) for a while and understand "chunk" vs "peel".

When I talked of peeling up the edge 5-7mm "right out of the box" it is a bit more involved (which is why I quit using Jaco's). My experience that just the initial stress on the tire of the first couple of runs or the first passes on a truer are enough to "loosen" up the edge. I typically true down my tires a fair amount before they even see the track. So, right out of the box, for me, they go to the truer, then get the edge worked on. The 3M weatherstrip adhesive is very flexible and like Gadget said, when the rim flexes, the CA is brittle and gives way. Having re-glued the edge with the 3M gives the tire support when the rim flexes. If a set of tires hasn't loosend up the edge right off the truer, it will within the first pass on the track. I have to watch carefully and get the 3M on it before there is a chance it will chunk. Once the 3M is applied, I still have to keep on on sidewall maintenance with CA glue to prevent chunking. That's fairly common no matter what make of tire you choose.

Again, I found this to be a lot of extra work and decided to go a different direction. That's a consumers choice. If you can use the information being given here it may assist you down the road. I do like your rims and referred to my current tire choice as having "rims like a Jaco and foam like a CRC" From my perspective, each company has it about half right.

I buy rc4less tires-black(50)frnts;black(45)rears.Great traction,great wear,good rims(even if they are orange).Oh and good prices too.Havn't had a prob with them and they DON'T CHUNK or peel,and wear like iron.I used to go thru jaco yellows in 3 runs the front jaco blacks were 6 run tires.I like jaco's but ----

G'day guys, I have a dilemma that I need some help with.

Yesterday I got my new 1S Lipo's and went to plug it into the GTB 4 Cell installed - and as soon as I plugged it in, it generated so much heat on the connection (deans plug on battery to ESC connection) that is de-soldered the wires on the ESC side of the connection!

Any ideas on what may have happened? I haven't dared to re-solder it and try again. The Battery still reads voltage on th multimeter - so it hasn't been fried. Not sure about the esc though.

Any ideas?
Cheers
NT