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Old 01-09-2010 | 01:29 PM
  #33121  
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Manufacturers are using CA now to glue the foams on which is why acetone works. They used to use a contact cement type of glue which lacquer thinner worked to take the foam off. I find I can mount my own with contact cement and have less peeling if I sand the rims first...that is what is missing from current mounting procedures. Problem is the CRC rim melts in lacquer thinner...not sure if the Jaco rim would stand up either.

Andrew I've been looking for a good tire/rim alternative too...but still haven't found one. Been thinking on trying the ones on RC4Less but I'm not sure about how good their tire compounds are...and I'm not real fond of orange rims. But they do look sturdier. I've been wanting to try those Gecko tires but they are still donuts only and more expensive then mounted CRCs.
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Old 01-09-2010 | 01:40 PM
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AWD,

For what it's worth, I've run both the Jaco Prism and the Parma Blackhawk back-to-back, same compounds, and had much better luck with the Blackhawks.

I ran 3 full race nights (that's 12 heats total) on the same pair of Blackhawks (Yellow Rear/Dbl Pink Front) with minimal chunking/peeling and then the first heat out with Jaco Prisms (Yellow Rear/Dbl Pink Front) the rears came back all chunked to crap !

I don't know if I just got lucky or if Parma uses a different gluing process than Jaco but I know a few others with similar experiences to mine with the Blackhawks.

Cheers,
Mike
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Old 01-09-2010 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by JustMe2
Acetone in a metal paint can, sealed and leave ovenight, foam falls right off. Make sure you do this in a well ventilated area.

What is being used now to glue the new tires on the clean wheels? Is AJ's still available?
I use to mount all of my own tires and always just used Weldwood contact cement. Put a coat on the rim and a coat on the inside of the tire. Let dry for 15 minutes and then dunk both in a pan of laquer thinner and slip the donut on the rim. Very easy to do and the contact cement works way better than whatever is being used today by the mfg's. Be carefull of the CRC rims and lacquer thinner though.

One thing I have noticed is that the larger you run the newer tires, the easier it is to peel or chunk one. I typically cut my rears down to 43mm to start and have very few problems. The orange rears do hold up better than the yellow as they have yellow foam on the inside for forward traction and grey foam on the outter rim for durability and to free the car up in the corner a little.
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Old 01-09-2010 | 02:06 PM
  #33124  
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Originally Posted by Hyper_Mike
AWD,

For what it's worth, I've run both the Jaco Prism and the Parma Blackhawk back-to-back, same compounds, and had much better luck with the Blackhawks.

I ran 3 full race nights (that's 12 heats total) on the same pair of Blackhawks (Yellow Rear/Dbl Pink Front) with minimal chunking/peeling and then the first heat out with Jaco Prisms (Yellow Rear/Dbl Pink Front) the rears came back all chunked to crap !

I don't know if I just got lucky or if Parma uses a different gluing process than Jaco but I know a few others with similar experiences to mine with the Blackhawks.

Cheers,
Mike
My Blackhawks pealed just the same as my Jacos and had problems with the front bearings being loose. From my understanding Jaco makes the Blackhawks for Parma so the process would be the same.
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Old 01-09-2010 | 02:16 PM
  #33125  
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Thanks for the info guys!

What does glueing the sidewalls on the tires do? Reduce traction or sidewall flex?
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Old 01-09-2010 | 02:55 PM
  #33126  
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Originally Posted by SteveL
I use to mount all of my own tires and always just used Weldwood contact cement. Put a coat on the rim and a coat on the inside of the tire. Let dry for 15 minutes and then dunk both in a pan of laquer thinner and slip the donut on the rim. Very easy to do and the contact cement works way better than whatever is being used today by the mfg's. Be carefull of the CRC rims and lacquer thinner though.

One thing I have noticed is that the larger you run the newer tires, the easier it is to peel or chunk one. I typically cut my rears down to 43mm to start and have very few problems. The orange rears do hold up better than the yellow as they have yellow foam on the inside for forward traction and grey foam on the outter rim for durability and to free the car up in the corner a little.
I agree. larger diameter tires peel easier. I wish we had the traction to allow me to run a tire that starts at that size. I'll keep looking, thanks. Anyone know if you can get donuts of the yellow or grey-low foam CRC is currently using?
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Old 01-09-2010 | 03:33 PM
  #33127  
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What does glueing the sidewalls on the tires do? Reduce traction or sidewall flex?

What company makes Orange Foams?
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Old 01-09-2010 | 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by JustMe2
What does glueing the sidewalls on the tires do? Reduce traction or sidewall flex?

What company makes Orange Foams?
Both. Glueing the sidewall keeps the foam from grabbing as much which will reduce side bite a little. Can help if you are near a traction roll condition. If your car is already loose, this won't help any. Glueing also helps keep the foam from peeling as much too.

Parma and Jaco both have the orange compound.
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Old 01-09-2010 | 03:42 PM
  #33129  
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Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz
Hi!

Anyone use this bodies?
C12 Mark 2
http://www.hbeurope.com/piw.php?lang=en&partNo=61731
or C12 Mark 3
http://www.hbeurope.com/piw.php?lang=en&partNo=61732

?

Looking for info.

m.
Those bodies actually pre-date the HPI buyout of the original Hot Bodies company, based out of New Jersey. They Mark 2 is the HB Toyota GT-1, very similar in handling to the Protoform Nissan P-35, The Mark 3 is the HB Nissan NPT '91 which handled similarly to the Associated Nissan NPT body. Compared to the modern Proto, Parma, and Black ART bodies the HB shells would be lacking in downforce.
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Old 01-09-2010 | 03:49 PM
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tire peeling has become quite a problem in 1/12th scale racing lately. I find that it's not so much the rubber coming unglued from the wheel as the rubber ripping off the wheel. For some reason this peeling problem seems more pronounced since the switch to larger diameter wheels. Yellow rears seem the worst for peeling. But all the compounds share the same issue. Anybody who finds a reliable way to overcome this issue and shares the knowledge would surely become an instant hero to a great many racers. And any company who came to market with a tire that wouldn't peel and would still run the competitive lap times.......they would quickly earn the lion's share of the market. Everybody seems to be struggling with keeping the tires on the wheels these days.
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Old 01-09-2010 | 06:10 PM
  #33131  
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For the peeling issue I have found that "safety Gluing" the sidewalls of the rear tires works well just don't get it up too high. and you have to re-apply often to keep it strong.
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Old 01-09-2010 | 06:42 PM
  #33132  
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I had issues with Parma tires peeling off as well. The Jaco compound seems to be close to Parma but yet to see Jaco tires peel like parma.

Crc seems to be the way to go.
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Old 01-09-2010 | 07:03 PM
  #33133  
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CRC's defintely are less prone to peel, but the rim is more fragile. Choose your poison . . .
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Old 01-09-2010 | 07:32 PM
  #33134  
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To me, the Parma and Jaco tires/wheels seem to be identical except the Parma front wheels seem to be even looser in the bearings than the Jacos. I have had both peel.

The best thing I have found to reduce peeling is after truing, hit the outside edge with a tire file to make sure no rubber overhangs the wheel and then really round off that edge. Then glue the bead with thin CA. They can still peel but it helps.
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Old 01-09-2010 | 07:40 PM
  #33135  
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
CRC's defintely are less prone to peel, but the rim is more fragile. Choose your poison . . .
Which rims frt or rr are you breaking and at what spot on the wheel? I think I've only broken two wheels in several seasons of running the CRC wheels.....
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