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Old 10-26-2009, 03:08 AM
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Default hotbodies d8 question

im planning to buy one of this buggy,i want to know what is this buggy's weak points,others say that you have to buy a lot of option parts for this buggy to make it durable..
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Old 10-26-2009, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by jeremiah23
im planning to buy one of this buggy,i want to know what is this buggy's weak points,others say that you have to buy a lot of option parts for this buggy to make it durable..
There has been alot of people braking rear drive shafts, most use the Hyper 8 drive shafts now and have no problems
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Old 10-26-2009, 07:08 AM
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There are nothing wrong with the driveshafts now. I have ran this buggy since the nats and have had no problems. The only thing I changed when got the buggy was changing out the plastic servo horn to aluminum one. I have many gallons on mine so I have replaced my outdrives and driveshafts. Just regular maintanence. With the price, bottom line, if your not a sponsored driver there is no reason why you should'nt be driving a D8. lol.
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Old 10-26-2009, 09:12 AM
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Two of us have d8's in my club, i had a front center drive shaft go out in the first month, he has had all but one of the drive shafts that had to be replaced.
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Old 10-26-2009, 09:22 AM
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the important part to keeping the cvd's working well is to pack them with grease.

the most important thing is to remember that hot bodies customer service it awesome. so if anything breaks just give them a call and they will probably take care of it for you.

also, check out the thread here: http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-560.html

lots of good info there
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Old 10-26-2009, 03:08 PM
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i have only had trouble with the CVD's which i fixed by putting some heat shrink over the end to cover the pin and stop it from falling out. never had a problem since

hope this helps
dane
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Old 10-26-2009, 04:22 PM
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Definitely replace both servo horns, especially the steering. I never had any problems w/ the drive shafts, I just used a dremel to smooth out the bevel on the inside of the axel cup(someone posted this solution on here) and used heat shrink around the cvds.
I think the weakest point on the buggy is the rear shock tower. The wing stay is only attached to the upper part of the tower, where as most buggies, the lower screws of the wing stay go into the bulkhead. This can cause the shock tower to break if you're prone to casing jumps or doing somersaults.
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Old 10-26-2009, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Miniracer23
Definitely replace both servo horns, especially the steering. I never had any problems w/ the drive shafts, I just used a dremel to smooth out the bevel on the inside of the axel cup(someone posted this solution on here) and used heat shrink around the cvds.
I think the weakest point on the buggy is the rear shock tower. The wing stay is only attached to the upper part of the tower, where as most buggies, the lower screws of the wing stay go into the bulkhead. This can cause the shock tower to break if you're prone to casing jumps or doing somersaults.
is this still happening with the revised rear shock tower? i havent seen it personally, but since i broke my original stock one i got the ACE towers and those things are super tough!
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Old 10-26-2009, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by fatdaddy
is this still happening with the revised rear shock tower? i havent seen it personally, but since i broke my original stock one i got the ACE towers and those things are super tough!
the revised shock tower is pretty nice i do want some ace shock towers though i hear they are BEEF!
anyways here is some pics of mine.

old tower next to the new one.


broke shock tower due to casing a jump and landing on the wing


new shock tower close up


i have not had a problem since with the older style tower because i learned to keep it on its wheels.
cars a bit dirty but i raced saturday lol


and my spare parts bin
not much in there because not much breaks.
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Old 10-26-2009, 06:01 PM
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Looking to get his buggy too.

Has the recent kit been updated to the newer parts?

Or are these something I have to purchase separately?

How do the front arms hold up?

Other than the alum servo arms, what other option part you guys think is necessary?

Still new to 1/8th, so looking for something durable. Am I looking at the right chassis?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 10-26-2009, 06:31 PM
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Check out the main thread:

1. Steering Servo Horn
2. Fuel Line-better grade
3. Captured Hinge Pins-which is not absolutely needed.

Go race-too date I have broken zilch and since my break from racing my skills have gone from good to crap. So crashing is on the upper % for me and no problems to date.

Name another car that can say that.
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Old 10-26-2009, 06:46 PM
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i have been running the stock servo horns for around 3 months with no problems except i got hit in the side and stripped the throttle horn out and i havent broke any plastic parts the car is pretty tough i dont wreck much but when i do it is a pretty good lick lol.
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Old 10-26-2009, 06:54 PM
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I own a DB, absolutely love it, there's 500 plus pages on the D8 forum, the team drivers post often, if you any questions, concerns, or any issues they reply, it's a great car, and the product support is awesome, OK I'll give you the plus 1 your right most hobby shops don't carry the parts for it, but you can order online manufacture direct. So I'll get off my soap box, now. good luck if you decide the D8 is for you, and see ya at the races. Scott.
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Old 10-26-2009, 08:13 PM
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Unless you are a very careful driver this buggy will break guaranteed. All buggys will break sure if they are beat hard enough, but the hot bodies seems a little more fragile than most. I believe that you get what you pay for. If price is your concern then pick up a used losi 2.0 they seem to go for about 350 and beat the hell out of it. Just what I have seen.
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Old 10-26-2009, 08:26 PM
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I disagree that the d8 is fragile. I have beat the crap out of mine and have yet to break or pull any screw out. in fact, I have all the original plastic on mine.

every car has its problems. its a very capable car.
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