3LikesM03/M05's - The Aussie Mini Racing thread
07-28-2009 | 07:22 PM
#1277
M05 Set-up Sheet
M05 set-up sheet from the Tamiya web site ...
http://www.tamiya.com/japan/download.../m05_blank.pdf
http://www.tamiya.com/japan/download.../m05_blank.pdf
07-29-2009 | 12:33 AM
#1278
Thanks for the link to the setup sheet. It is interesting to see that they refer to three different swaybar's for the front and rear of the car.
Hopefully they are made from spring steel and work better than the MO3 set.
Now they just need to release some more Hop ups for the car before the other inferior hop ups are released.
CYA,
Calvin.
Hopefully they are made from spring steel and work better than the MO3 set.
Now they just need to release some more Hop ups for the car before the other inferior hop ups are released.
CYA,
Calvin.
07-29-2009 | 03:29 AM
#1280
Cory,
You will need to decide what type of diff you want to run in the car. I have fitted a tight TAO3 ball diff in my car. Before I joined the front and rear chassis parts together I sprayed the joint area with Nulon Ezi-glide clear silicon lubricant, so that I could pull it apart easily. I also use this spray on my internal gears. The instruction sheet is a little vague at step 6 regarding what size screws fit where. The 3 x 12's go on the bottom holes, the 3 x 15 goes to the top of the gearbox and the 3 x 16 countersunk goes near the front body post.
You need to make sure that your servo is between 47-50mm max in width and 30mm and below in height from the servo ear.
The steering linkage can do with shimming. One side took a 0.1mm shim and the other side a 0.2mm shim. This was placed on the post that the 850 bearings go on.
The biggest change to the standard kit is to completely ball race the car and get rid of the plastic bearings.
Replace the dogbones with universals. I fitted M chassis TRF shocks to my MO5 lifted from my MO3M. This has Blue short TRF springs front and short TRF yellow springs rear. Three hole pistons front and rear with 50 wt oil front and 40 wt oil rear. These were built as per instructions.
The biggest decision with the kit is what wheel base you want to run. If you decide MO5L then follow the instructions from Step 15 (half way down page 10), avoiding Steps 15 to 18 page 9/10.
I did not use the new battery straps, as they prevent you from running lead across the Lipo. I used the old MO3 battery retainers. The lead makes the battery wider which prevents the new straps from closing properly to place the small battery pins.
The rest of the build is straight forward. Just make sure that nothing binds during the build process. The car weighs a lot less than a standard MO3, coming in at around 1300 gms, with your electronics fitted.
Good luck and enjoy your build.
Regards,
Calvin.
You will need to decide what type of diff you want to run in the car. I have fitted a tight TAO3 ball diff in my car. Before I joined the front and rear chassis parts together I sprayed the joint area with Nulon Ezi-glide clear silicon lubricant, so that I could pull it apart easily. I also use this spray on my internal gears. The instruction sheet is a little vague at step 6 regarding what size screws fit where. The 3 x 12's go on the bottom holes, the 3 x 15 goes to the top of the gearbox and the 3 x 16 countersunk goes near the front body post.
You need to make sure that your servo is between 47-50mm max in width and 30mm and below in height from the servo ear.
The steering linkage can do with shimming. One side took a 0.1mm shim and the other side a 0.2mm shim. This was placed on the post that the 850 bearings go on.
The biggest change to the standard kit is to completely ball race the car and get rid of the plastic bearings.
Replace the dogbones with universals. I fitted M chassis TRF shocks to my MO5 lifted from my MO3M. This has Blue short TRF springs front and short TRF yellow springs rear. Three hole pistons front and rear with 50 wt oil front and 40 wt oil rear. These were built as per instructions.
The biggest decision with the kit is what wheel base you want to run. If you decide MO5L then follow the instructions from Step 15 (half way down page 10), avoiding Steps 15 to 18 page 9/10.
I did not use the new battery straps, as they prevent you from running lead across the Lipo. I used the old MO3 battery retainers. The lead makes the battery wider which prevents the new straps from closing properly to place the small battery pins.
The rest of the build is straight forward. Just make sure that nothing binds during the build process. The car weighs a lot less than a standard MO3, coming in at around 1300 gms, with your electronics fitted.
Good luck and enjoy your build.
Regards,
Calvin.
07-29-2009 | 04:51 AM
#1281
Just thought you mini fanatics would like to see my new mini body i painted up today!
Bit of a quick job and didnt have good quality masking tape for the racing stripes so used cheap sh$t masking tape!
Other than that, it came out alright!
Bit of a quick job and didnt have good quality masking tape for the racing stripes so used cheap sh$t masking tape!
Other than that, it came out alright!
08-01-2009 | 03:45 PM
#1288
Guys and Girls, The South Australia EP State titles are coming up on the weekend of Friday the 4th to Sunday the 6th of September. We are running Mini to the National rules. We should have a better idea of numbers after today's club meet but im putting it out there to any of you maniacs that we would love to have you over. Entry is $60 and includes a BBQ on the saturday after qualifying. Details of the track and entry forms can be found here
http://www.rrcsa.org.au/
Cheers Benzaah.
http://www.rrcsa.org.au/
Cheers Benzaah.
08-01-2009 | 03:46 PM
#1289
Hey Greywolf
Pull out some of that hard earned cash and ring Greg Fisher you will need some of his TRF M shocks. You should ring me and I will come down for a
drive at the track close to your home.
Pull out some of that hard earned cash and ring Greg Fisher you will need some of his TRF M shocks. You should ring me and I will come down for a
drive at the track close to your home.