I found a big roll of this solder:

Kester "44" Rosin Core #66 44

Any good?

Thanks!

Yes, it'll do......


http://www.kester.com/data%20sheets/...0(14jun07).pdf

Agreed, Kester's solder is what MANY professionals use(myself included, pretty much every place I've worked uses it, & I've been with over a half dozen different employers in the electronics field), it's quality stuff, & can be bought at a MUCH better price than the stuff you see at Radio Shack or most R/C related companies(& that tiny bit of silver content in some of them isn't enough to make a big difference in the quality of connection, especially since the technique & tools you use are FAR more important to getting a good low resistance solder joint). Trust me, you will not be disappointed....

Thanks guys, I appreciate the input! I have a 1 pound roll...gonna take me forever to use it all...lifetime supply probably!

Kester actually makes an equivalent racing type solder, but its hard to near impossible to find, its Sn62Pb36Ag2, used to be KE1119 or KE1120 both of which show as discontinued. I'm waiting for them to reply to my email - thats the reason I knew where that pdf on Ke44 was.

Bet it was discontinued due to the 36% lead content. Everyone is trying to go lead free.

Hope not, they are still making the 63/37 mentioned above. I think it was low demand and the cost that caused it to be discontinued. Could be wrong..... I know ISO pressure is moving things in that direction - prob the reason you can't buy Deans solder any more. I have a good supply, but if I could get a lb of this Kester, I'd be set for a long, long time.

I don't care for the lead free solder.

Guys, so since this is a topic of solder, what is the difference between different kinds?

From what I played around with, it seems that solder with lead flows much better than lead free. I have some solder, lead free, fairly thick stuff, and I can not get it to bond good. Should I use a special flux?

Sorry for these generic type questions, I dont have very solid knowledge of this stuff

Any feedback with the Novak solder? It's lead free too. Do you need to separately use flux with it?

What I've read was less than encouraging.......

It's true that lead-free solder is more difficult to use, because lead DOES flow more easily(its melting point & consistency are big reasons why it's been popular). With lead-free, you need more heat(so if your iron isn't the best in the world, its flaws will become much more apparent when using the more difficult solders), & while some will have flux in it, having some of your own can sometimes be helpful.....

The big problem with current lead free solders is the ‘tin whiskers’ problem. Has caused a ton of issues in the electronics industry, even with some very expensive and previously well built equipment. There are other generally less serious drawbacks as well. Of course remember to be careful with leaded, use as little as possible, wash hands and such.

BTW, does anyone know of a good way to dispose of leaded items?

Regardless, strongly agree on using a little paste flux , makes it work sooo much better and easier.

Another thing to point out is that the lead-free and lead solders don't mix to well due to the different melting points.

The Novak stuff is pretty good.. but again, you need a good iron and it's really expensive!

I have been buying my 60/40 Rosin Core Lead/Tin solder from Radio Shack for the last 20 years... They did discontinue it for about 6 months way back about 15 years ago when all the lead free freaks were out and about... but the 40/60 less lead solder was crappy and difficult to use... glad them came to their senses quickly.

I imagine now that I'm using LiPo batteries these days, a 1lb roll is going to last me years!

Jerome

Novak solder is teh suck. Our LHS got some in and the consensus is its pretty much the worst solder any of us have tried... Deans was/is the best, if you can ever find any of the freaking stuff (they still advertise it!). Radio shack's seems to be fine.