Adam Drake

SupermaxxRich- Thanks.

losi_racer

iTrader: (25)

adam, im having issues with my grp. ive always checked temps on it but for some reason after the nitro challenge i cant get temps below 220 and i have very little pinch left, but there is still enough there. there is only like 2.5 gallons if that on this motor. i can only get it to run around 225 and its still runnin rich. i dont tune by temps but this just has me worried because i know grps are supposed to run 160-200 but other people have told me its fine at 225

turners3215

iTrader: (8)

Sound like an air leak. I would start with the carb. In my experience air leaks are coming from the carb 99.9% of the time.

Adam Drake

losi_racer- Are you running the engine in buggy or truck? What fuel, gearing and clutch set-up? Has the engine always run around 225? Is the tuning consistent?

Mr. Twister

iTrader: (4)

Adam, the head on that motor seem's to be the wrong color, Avitar

roadracer43

iTrader: (1)

Adam, Im looking to buy my son an 1/8 scale buggy and now that the losi 8ight 2.0 rtr is coming out I will most likely get that one for him do to the awesome package they have put together. Is there much difference between the rtr and roller ?

scottk

iTrader: (72)

Hi Adam,
Just a few quick questions.
Do you use the turbo button on your plus 4 in your buggy?
And why is it you drill 55 pistons to 54 on the 8? what is wrong with the losi 54?

cheers

T4-RC8 RACER77

Hello drake. I have just got rid of a rc8 an a ft t4. Now I have the 8-2.0 buggy and xxxt cr. where do I go for the Ele truck setups?? Ur setups or mikes setups?

aaron_buran

Hi Adam, I posted this on the smart diff thread, but I am not sure you would see it there, let me know your toughts please:

I have only tried the center and here is what I have seen. I am a little new to off-road, but have been racing on-road longer than I'd like to admit. I have tried it back to back a number of times in Columbus as well as outdoors this last weekend. While it seems to help increase the low speed steering it seems to lack in transition from High to Low speed, you can really see it at the end of a straight away. Both columbus and akron have 90's at the end of the straight requiring significant braking, with the smart diff I almost always push wide to the wall, with the standard diff this doesn't happen. It's as if the smart diff isn't disengaging fast enough, so I went to the next stiffest spring on the smart diff to get it to disengage quicker, and I get the same result?

After pushing into the tubes at the end of the straight every lap at Akron this weekend, after the race I took it out again and put the center back in, and the car was 100 times better at the end of the straight away. Any low speed steering and forward bite that was lost going back to center diff was undetectable, but the end of the straight was night and day. Both tracks had high bite, maybe this in itself makes the smart diff a bad call? Do you guys think a loose track is better suited? Maybe I need to run the front with it to get to turn with the center installed at the end of a straight?

With everyone talking about cutting and or reducing the number of springs I would think that it would further make the "disengagment" worse?

Thx,

Aaron

aaron_buran

Adam, one other question.

I have been running the Truhe setup since I purchased the car, and other than trying the smartdiff, and different tires and inserts, what other advice can you offer to get the car to turn more? It seems like everyone that runs the car in Columbus run the Truhe / Drake setup to the T. What else do you like to try to get the car to turn and rotate more?

Thx,

-A

T4-RC8 RACER77

Hey drake where u at!??

Adam Drake

Mr. Twister- LOL! I need to figure out how to change that.

roadracer43- Most of the items are the same, but the shock towers, chassis, and a few other items are simplified to lower the cost.

scottk- I run the turbo button on the Nova Rossi Plus 4. When using a 55 piston and drilling all six holes with a #54 drill bit, the holes will actually be a little smaller then a 54 piston.

T4-RC8 RACER77-

XXXT-CR (Matt Chambers)

Front:
..5 degrees to in
Ride height= 30mm
-1 camber
30wt oil
57 Piston
Silver Spring
.....210 limiting
spindle height= bottom
axle spacer = outside
Inside hole on bellcrank with 2 washers under ballstud
3 washers under spindle ballstud
2-B Camber Link with 2 washers
Shock location = #1 on tower, inside on arm
VLA=Short

Rear:
Toe = 3 degrees (stock)
Ride height= 29mm
Rear Hub Spacing= Back (in the upper hole of hub)
30 wt oil
55 piston (standard)
White Spring
no limiters
2-B camber link with 6 washers
Shock location: #3 on tower, middle on arm
VLA= short

aaron_buran- When going from a standard diff to the smartdiff I always add one full turn of front brake. At the Silver State I ran with two .15 springs (not cut) and the std. smartdiff grease. You want use a lot of grease in the smart diff. Try running more toe-out in the front, 55 pistons in the rear with 32.5 oil, and moving the rear hubs forward one spacer.

Integra

iTrader: (8)

would going straite to the the 2 .15's as apposed to the 4 .15 outta the box be preferable ? I hear lots of guys saying they are only running 2 .15's.

ABURTON

iTrader: (24)

Nick, In buggy yes. I am almost positive when the guys run the SD in truggy they stick to all 4 .15's.

Talk to ya soon

T4-RC8 RACER77

thank you drake!