So if I let off or brake coming into the corner it'll dive in more with 30 degree than 25 right?
If I let off then punch it into the corner it'll push more with the 30 degree caster block, right?

I put in AKA med (only ones they make for now) and they are very, very hard but the kit foams are way too soft, at least for my indoor smooth track.
The 1/8th scale nitro guys say the AKA foams are best when broken in after a set or two of tires and thats after a 7 1/2 pound 4wd firebreathing buggy beats them for 2 sets of tires.
I'm guessing my SC10 will never be able to break them in but they worked ok for me last nite. Maybe we'll hear that another foam from 1/8 scale will be a little less firm and work better for our trucks?
I think the AKA was recommended and used since it is said to be the best 1/8scale foam available, for 1/8 buggies tho. Just a thought.

Mine rubbed too, I checked to be sure the shock ends were screwed on completely since leaving them partly screwed on would leave the shocks too long and allow the arm to drop too far. They still rubbed a little and I didn't want to add more shims inside the shocks so I just removed a little material from the cross brace on the arm.

I started with a 26 pinion on my Novak 13.5 and it thermaled before I even got around to checkin the temp, about 1 or 2 minutes into a practice run.
worked my way down to a 23 and twice it thermaled at about 8 to 10 minutes of consecutive practice runs. It was still really fast so I raced it like that last nite.
As mentioned above, the only thing draggin on mine was the rear axles against the cross brace on the arms. Grind the arms down a little or add more shims inside the shocks.

Thanks for the input, I may start with 22 or 23 then.

Finished my build today, but there were 3 rear body posts and only one front...guess I'll have to give ae a call.

Built my diff tonight all went well and no crunchy diff, Have the shocks left to do and the paint scheme is laid out on the body to shoot tomorrow also.

Got pix up finally.

Can check out the weight placement that I used to get it feelin pretty F N good. 3 oz total weight added.

4 x 1/4 oz squares on the front bumper skid plate

2 x 1/4 oz on each side of the front of the battery tray standing up

2 x 1/4 oz on each side at the rear of the chassis, look by the antennae.

what motor you running Cuda???? and NIMH or LIPO.

Motor is 13.5 Novak and it feels like a freakin modified motor in this thing.

I run Lipos, 5000 Reedy and 3200 Orion.

Sorry to ask again but...............
sidewinder 4600 arrives Monday.........any gearing advice?

I gotta say, I like sc10 heck of a lot better than slash. sure the slash came pre-assembled, but tuning this thing will be easier than slash. All that 'spec' rules and what parts you can't use...

AE quality is very good I must say. Many have some small issues, but no maker is perfect.

Your 13.5 motor is a brushless one? Or do you mean with this 13.5, the number of turns this motor have (brushed)?

If its a brushless one, do you know how much kv this thing have?

I have here an orion element 10.5 brushless, but I think this will be way to fast for the sc10.

looks good so far.

Correct.

DK

I just set mine up with a 18 tooth pinion and the big spur. I'll try it in a few hours and see how it goes. I'm thinking 4600 kv is more then whAt everyone is running so hence the 18 pinion

I bought mine Friday night and was up until 3 in the morning building. I can't wait to run it at my local track next weekend.

I'm still building mine, but I had a chance to run my friend's SC10 at HRH this weekend. While it was fun to drive, it did not blow my sox off. With a stock motor, it was quite fast. It was definitely faster than a stock Slash and handles differently. I think you would have to be nuts to put anything more than a 19T motor in this thing. Even a 19T will be difficult to manage. It wont be able to handle the power, period. It's a great truck, but the hype factor with this thing is way over the top.