change the fluid in the aluminum tubes after every 3 heats (1 days worth of racing) ....no binding when dry or lubed. i must be soooo lucky to have the ONLY other perfect set ever made.

since i started racing asphalt 12th two weeks ago, that chassis is on the verge of getting changed (front end damage). clipped a dot and flew 15 feet. just used a machinists ruler to visually check them out, didn't notice anything bent, etc. i will check the plates again on another flat surface when off the car.

It's not you impact, just personal experience, I never had an aluminum set that didn't require quite a bit of "re-finishing" in order to work smoothly. I actually went to plastic tubes on my CRC car before I switched over to the Rev. 3. The plastic tubes have always been more consistent for me. My best friend is a CRC sponsored driver and he says they're alot better than the used to be, but I'm still sold on the plastic tubes.

i run for doug and i actually use the ones for a corrally . i would use the ones for irs because of the spring option.
but i got freebies from my buddies at corrally usa so i run those. they all work.

Thanks for all the replies!!

Can anyone tell me the size of the bearing in the spur gear?

The bearing in the spur gear is 1/4 x 3/8 unflanged.

D.P.

D.P.

Thanks!! Now if the parts I ordered from Speedmerchant will ever show up my Quad12 will be up and running!!!

Hey Mr. Powell,

Any time or progress on making a battery retention system for the CRC car similar to the one you designed for you car.

Eric from Tucson

I've seen one of you chassis' a guy that I race with at Competition Hobbies bought one, looks very impressive. I've been trying to find a used 12L3 for cheep so that I can try your chassis, but no luck yet.

Hey guys,
On carpet, what would be the effect of going from a grey to a pink rear? Im loking for a little more forward bite and better wear, I know the pinks will wear better, but any comments on the bite?

saw this on the TRINITY talk site

http://www.rcracechat.com/forum/attachments/JG_3.JPG

someone was asking who makes this 12th


ERIC

DP also makes his chassis in a tape version. in MOD some like to run the rec-pk on the t-bar. he also sells chassis parts separate so those who chose to can stick with their disk dampner system


PINK tires on the rear. i tried it to get more grip but it was too much forward bite at times and they caused the car to be twitchy in the turns. when the rear end traction breaks it is more violent, made the car hard for me to drive. i went to WHITES although softer than PINKS they were better on our carpet when it was new and once the black groove set in they were almost like the PINKS. if you want more traction than GREYS try the TRC GRANITE Compound: half BLACK outside / half WHITE inside.

Eric,
You are not the only one to ask that. I will borrow a CK from one of my local customers and get some dimensions off of the chassis. He doesn't need it anymore, he stepped up to a Quad12.

Shouldn't be a problem, the posts should be the same as I use on the Q12 plus or minus a little in height and the carbon fiber battery hold down would also be a shorter version of the one on the Q12.

Also, rather than buying a used 12L3 and tossing most of it. Pick up a front end(old school or dynamic, your choice), Micro shock, IRS pod plates and 12 ball diff and you're mostly there.
I've got the carbon fiber parts covered and I make T-bars also.

D.P.

Fast - That looks like a P.T.I. Virus. I think its a Japanese company. They also make a sedan with rocker style suspension (2 rear shocks and 1 front).

if it is a PTI? it is heavily changed from the last one i saw pictured which had no floating pod or t-bar...it relied on the flex of a narrow cut section.

I am just entering th 12th scale scene and pretty much decided on CRC Carpet Knife, GM SX9 speed control, and a P2k2 stock motor.

Now could anyone give me suggestions on servos?

Thanks, grump

Looks like a home built to me. The chassis looks like it was cut from some cheap carbon fiber that showed up on Ebay a while back. Too thin and way to much flex for a racing chassis.

D.P.

grump- I would highly suggest reconsidering and looking at the Speemerchant Rev. 3, it is very similar to the CRC knife, however there are a few distinct features that make it a much better car.
-Adjustable battery position (huge in 12th scale)
-Adjustable and smooth side links
-stiff chassis (the crc flexes alot in the rear)
-low roll centers (the crc ones are sky high and to make the car handle considerably better you have to install speedmerchant side links, which have adjustable roll centers)
-Old style front end, its much simplier and its still the hookup for stock, espically for people just getting into 12th scale. the dyanmic strut from end is very poorly molded and requires alot of handfitting to work properly.

Also I would suggest a Monster stock motor, they are the best for any track hands down.

I have not had any expeariances with GM speedo's so I cannot comment, however I will say I have yet to be dispointed with an LRP quantom comp

As far as servo's each company basically makes a servo for 12th scale. All of them are pretty good, I personally run airtonics, however I have seen some bad batches of them from time to time, however I still go back to em, lol. Futaba and KO Propo are the other choices that I have heard good things about (the KO servo is wicked fast though, and I have heard its to the point where its detrimental, even for certain not to be named A main mod 12th scale drivers, lol)

if you have any questions please feel free to ask!