Team Losi JRXS Type-R
#9121
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Colorado, USA, The land of the free and the home of the brave!
Posts: 2,880
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Allright, all these measurements are with a custom lipo tray that is flush with the chassis-
Height avaliable- 23.3mm (21.3mm at the bulkheads)
Width avaliable - 46.5mm at the pulleys (un-modified)
Length avaliable-aprox. 139 mm with un modified bulkhead and jr 9000s servo with no serrvo mount spacers.
The orion lipo (3200) is 46.1mm at widest point, 137.5 mm long, and 23mm tall including the cell "bumps".
Looks like you got some pulley widening to do!! its pretty easy, mikexray posted how to do it a few posts back.
Height avaliable- 23.3mm (21.3mm at the bulkheads)
Width avaliable - 46.5mm at the pulleys (un-modified)
Length avaliable-aprox. 139 mm with un modified bulkhead and jr 9000s servo with no serrvo mount spacers.
The orion lipo (3200) is 46.1mm at widest point, 137.5 mm long, and 23mm tall including the cell "bumps".
Looks like you got some pulley widening to do!! its pretty easy, mikexray posted how to do it a few posts back.
#9122
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
There is a guy here in oz making up a replacement layshaft that incorporates a spur gear mount for normal spurs. I might get him to have a good look at the pulley clearence issue and he could solve that problem along with a spur gear adaptor. You also get a much lighter layshaft so a bit more punch in spec racing.
#9124
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Colorado, USA, The land of the free and the home of the brave!
Posts: 2,880
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
That's what i've heard!
#9126
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Colorado, USA, The land of the free and the home of the brave!
Posts: 2,880
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Actually, no.
Currantly the old a$$ orions.
I have a TP 40c coming though, i don't mind a little modding.
Currantly the old a$$ orions.
I have a TP 40c coming though, i don't mind a little modding.
#9130
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
The SMC 5000 28c takes quite a bit of drilling and a lot modifications. It took a while to dremel 3-4mm off the rear bulkhead. I know that trakpower 4900's, flightpower 5400's and the orion 5000 fit right in with no modifications. I know there a lot of other batteries out there that fit but those are the ones I know fit from my personal experience.
#9131
#9132
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
There is a guy here in oz making up a replacement layshaft that incorporates a spur gear mount for normal spurs. I might get him to have a good look at the pulley clearence issue and he could solve that problem along with a spur gear adaptor. You also get a much lighter layshaft so a bit more punch in spec racing.
#9133
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
The SMC 5000 28c takes quite a bit of drilling and a lot modifications. It took a while to dremel 3-4mm off the rear bulkhead. I know that trakpower 4900's, flightpower 5400's and the orion 5000 fit right in with no modifications. I know there a lot of other batteries out there that fit but those are the ones I know fit from my personal experience.
#9134
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
The SMC 5000 28c takes quite a bit of drilling and a lot modifications. It took a while to dremel 3-4mm off the rear bulkhead. I know that trakpower 4900's, flightpower 5400's and the orion 5000 fit right in with no modifications. I know there a lot of other batteries out there that fit but those are the ones I know fit from my personal experience.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/31890
my pack is
Length: 136mm (5.3")
Width: 47mm (1.85")
Height: 22mm (0.87")
and the orion 5000 is
Length: 137.5mm
Width: 47mm
Height: 23mm
so that means it should fit with no mods
#9135
Tech Adept
Hey all,
I was absentmindedly building a brand new diff while watching TV. Built it right but then tightened it too much; it went "click." I loosened it and turned it, and it just clicks like a bike one-way. Then I took it apart, checked all the parts (they look fine; the thrust rolls fine it seems) regreased everything and put it back together. Now it has crunchy spots evenly around its rotation. Do you know what part is causing this trouble?
Thanks.
I was absentmindedly building a brand new diff while watching TV. Built it right but then tightened it too much; it went "click." I loosened it and turned it, and it just clicks like a bike one-way. Then I took it apart, checked all the parts (they look fine; the thrust rolls fine it seems) regreased everything and put it back together. Now it has crunchy spots evenly around its rotation. Do you know what part is causing this trouble?
Thanks.