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Old 01-21-2009, 05:43 PM
  #8161  
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Originally Posted by tony gray
What's to understand? It says..

Just lob some spacers (fuel tubing or 'o' rings are fine) on the shock shaft to get around 5mm or so in total. Then assemble the shock as per instructions but cut the rubber tube to about 8mm for both ends. Yes, the shock shaft with the spacers fits INSIDE the black rubber tube, INSIDE the shock body. Make sure to lubricate the inner of the black rubber tube.

Says nothing about anything at all on the outside...
Can you demonstrate? Is this like tossing a toilet seat at a spike in the ground?
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Old 01-21-2009, 11:11 PM
  #8162  
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syde, you still racing miniz?
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Old 01-22-2009, 12:40 AM
  #8163  
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Originally Posted by Sydewynder
Can you demonstrate? Is this like tossing a toilet seat at a spike in the ground?
It's EXACTLY like that....
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Old 01-22-2009, 01:59 AM
  #8164  
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Originally Posted by Dan
syde, you still racing miniz?
Yes. I RC everything with a "Mini" in it.

Originally Posted by tony gray
It's EXACTLY like that....
Thanks gotta go practice now.
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Old 01-22-2009, 02:00 AM
  #8165  
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****This page is intentionally left blank*****

Last edited by Sydewynder; 01-22-2009 at 02:03 AM. Reason: Double post :-P
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Old 01-22-2009, 11:55 AM
  #8166  
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Having bought a new 210mm wheelbase body for my M-03L, I've removed the chassis spacer/extension to fit it. What difference can I expect in the handling when racing (on carpet) with the shoter wheelbase? I had the steering speed at 50% with the long wheelbase to prevent oversteer, will I have to reduce it further, as the shorter wheelbase might be a little bit more 'twitchy'?

I'm eager to see how the change in wheelbase affects the handling. I've only run 2 meetings with the M03 in the 'L' configuration, but was starting to get a good feel for it.

I know it does sort of goes against the idea of the mini being different to the touring cars, but when I saw this body (http://www.fusionhobbies.com/PhotoGa...de=AR241000060), I had to give one a try. It looks quite good once you take all the Ansmann stickers off it. I've since heard that the Ansmann 1/10 TC bodies are a bit brittle, so it may only last one meeting. It's also not a direct drop-on replacement body, the standard M03 rear posts won't fit due to the bend in them, so I've used another pair of front posts. And the wheelarches required quite a bit of cutting to get them up to the correct size.


Last edited by Toon; 01-22-2009 at 12:09 PM.
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Old 01-22-2009, 12:31 PM
  #8167  
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4000mah? On a battery? In a Mini? That can only be good news...



Click here to read a little more...
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Old 01-22-2009, 01:31 PM
  #8168  
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Originally Posted by tony gray
4000mah? On a battery? In a Mini? That can only be good news...



Click here to read a little more...


Niceeee................
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Old 01-22-2009, 01:34 PM
  #8169  
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Originally Posted by tony gray
4000mah? On a battery? In a Mini? That can only be good news...



Click here to read a little more...
nice no more charging in mini ever! would prefer it if they used the corally plug setup instead of the lead. much easier and cleaner, especially in your tool box!. Ive been running my 2400 orion and loving it
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Old 01-22-2009, 10:42 PM
  #8170  
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For all you guys spread all over the world, Sorry, but this isn't much good to you. But for anyone in Australia who hasn't seen this yet....

rc-mini.net and the Victorian Mini Club are pleased to announce Australia's biggest ever 'Mini Only' race meeting.

MINI 50



On 11th and 12th July the Vic Mini Club proudly presents Mini 50 - Minishow 2009 at the Royal Melbourne Showgrounds celebrating the 50th anniversary of the beloved little BMC Classic Mini.
All of Australias premier Modified, Historic, Concours and Racing Minis will be on display along with a host of club displays and commercial Mini outlets.
Without question this will be the biggest mainstream Mini event EVER, and we're gonna be part of it.

To headline the event, rc-mini.net are running a special 2 day mega race meeting. 2 days of hard racing against the best drivers in the country on a purpose built full carpet, indoor raceway. Yes punters, it's indoors so we cant be rained out and you wont freeze to death. And your race entry lets you in to check out all the other action as well.

2 classes will be offered
- Mini (normal mini, obviously)
- Monster Mini (4WD mini)

More details closer to the date, and entry will be available very soon.

We will be testing the venue prior to use (probably late March) and we'll be letting everyone know what tyres you'll need to bring, so no dramas with what to use.

Ask your boss for some holidays, tell the wife you're donating 2 days to scientific experiments, do whatever you have to do, but book your plane or bus tickets now and BE THERE..
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Old 01-23-2009, 04:13 PM
  #8171  
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Finally got around to getting a M03 the other week, I've been reading up on the Mini's for a week or so now

Does anyone shim out the side to side play from the front and rear axles? I know that slop etc is built into the Mini (read that soooooooo many times lol) but there has been NO mention (unless I missed it) about the axles!
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Old 01-23-2009, 04:24 PM
  #8172  
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Originally Posted by 4_cell_racer
Does anyone shim out the side to side play from the front and rear axles? I know that slop etc is built into the Mini (read that soooooooo many times lol) but there has been NO mention (unless I missed it) about the axles!
If you pick up some of those really thin teflon shims at you local hobby shop, you can put them on the axle on the back side of the hub.

I use one in each corner, and it works well.

Other than that, I don't remove any slop from my mini. I tried it, and it handled like crap. Minis like some slop.

Jim
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Old 01-23-2009, 05:05 PM
  #8173  
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Thanks Jim

I did find out 5 minutes after posting that Tamiya do a shim set Part# 53587

More Q's......I own the standard M03....what degrees are the rear hubs on the standard M03? and are there other (standard plastic) degree hubs available for the M03? if so what do degrees do they come in? part# if poss please
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Old 01-23-2009, 05:52 PM
  #8174  
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4_cell_racer,

Depends on which MO3 kit you have.

The original MO3 kit came with zero degree rear hubs. The latest kits swift and MO3L,(MO3S Cooper 2006) come with two degree rear hubs standard. These are both plastic mouldings.

3Racing do 0, 1, 2, and 3 degree rear hubs, however these do not tolerate much abuse. The alloy is soft.

Tamiya and Yeah racing do a 1.5 degree rear hub as used on the MO3R kit. These are also alloy but stronger.

Dependant on track I run either o degree or 1.5 degree rear toe.

Yeah racing 1.5 Part Number MO3-132BU This uses a 1050 wheel bearing.

Tamiya B parts Part Number 50736 This is the zero degree hub and uses 1150 wheel bearing.

I do not have the part numbers for the 3Racing hubs.

Regards,

Calvin.

Last edited by caltek1; 01-24-2009 at 03:39 PM. Reason: revised text
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Old 01-23-2009, 07:53 PM
  #8175  
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If anyone's looking for Tamiya Minis for sale, and a bunch of other Tamiya and other stuff, check out my listings. Thanks.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ml#post5333073
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