Hey guys I just bought a VZ-R II today. I lost the manual somewhere between the lhs and my house. Can anyone tell me the factory carb settings on this motor? Also, I'm not clear on using the v-spec speed tuned crank/conrod combo in the VZ-R. Am I supposed to run the crank and conrod from the speed tuned motor in order for it to work properly?

One last question, I plan to change the bearings to ceramics before I even put 1 drop of gas thru it, has anyone done this? If so which name brand and how have they worked for you???

Thanks

Check out this link for a copy of the VZ-R II Turbo manual;
http://manuals.hobbico.com/osm/21vz-r-v2-manual.pdf
Good luck on your tune,
Roger

Here is a tip on how to increase the top end on the O.S. VZ-R II, use the 9886 pipe. You will notice a difference in the top end rpm band.
Enjoy,
Roger

Thanks Roger, but could you tell me about the speed conrod/crank swap into the vzr? I noticed after 2 tanks of fuel the conrod shows a very small amount of play on the crank side. Is this normal or is it time to change the rod already?

reemo,
As you may have read in one of my earlier postings, I recently blew a rod in one of VZ-R II's due to the high speed needle housing backing out and leaning the motor. Well, after ordering another VZ-R II (we run a Spec series that requires this motor) I also bought a new piston/sleeve and rod to rebuild the original motor. When I reassembled it, I notice some slop on TDC. I am told that this is due to either a worn wrist pin in the piston or crank pin. I guess my next step is to disassemble the motor and take the calipers to the pins and see where the problem lies. Sounds like you experiencing the same issues. I am told that the motor will run in this condition, albeit not for long. Keep in touch and let me know what you find on your power plant.
Roger

Hey Roger I just ran the 6th tank through the motor and noticed a little more play in the conrod on the crank side, but the motor still runs good. The only problem I'm having now is keeping the motor running. I have the idle up all the way but I still have to raise my throttle trim in order to keep it running until the motor heats up all the way. I'm going to replace the rod after another 4 tanks and i've fine tuned the engine for max performance.

I need the factory carb settings if anyone has them because my brother-in-law messed up the settings before I even put 1 tank of fuel in. I can dial the high and low speed needles but I don't know what's the setting for the mid range needle.

Keep me posted Roger.

Hi Reemo,
3 turns from close on the High Speed needle, and then work your way in with minimal turns
Low Speed needle flush with throttle linkage, and then work your way in from there.
Idle screw should be approx 0.5mm opened on the carby slide

the problem with your motor not staying on idle could be a couple of things.

1. your setting could be rich on the bottom end and the motor is loading up,

2. check to see if there is still compression left in the P/L , to be honest 6 tanks is a little to soon to be putting in race tune settings. OS motors are renowned to be a tight motor, and by leaning it out to soon could cause the motor to over heat and cause premature wear to the sleeve.

3. check to see if there is a air leak anywhere, make sure carby is seated properly.

4. repalce the plug.

I have replaced the Crank with the speed crank and yes it makes a big diffrence, i heard the Speed rod is the way to go also.

Hope this helps

Gawd damn it ...... I lost another piston sleeve again. The air filter was accidentally come off without me knowing it.

Who sell VZ-R piston sleeve ?

RC-mushroom don't have it in stock.

Is there a new version of the VZR Ver II being released. I figure the VZB (offroad) engine has a Speed Tuned version, so when is the onroad version coming?

I think my VZ-R II need new rear bearing replacement asap. The engine noise become noticibly rough after returning from heat #3. The engine temp. was increasing strangely too ...... from 100 C after Heat #1, 105C after Heat #2, and 118C after Heat #3 ???

When the engine become noisy all of sudden, am I correct to assume the rear bearing is the culprit ?

I'm quite dissapointed with this engine ..... was used maybe only 1 hour max, and she already need a new rear bearing ???

Speaking for myself, I almost always replace the bearings with ceramic whenever I buy a new motor. The ceramic run cleaner, cooler, and faster. When was the last time you lost a ceramic bearing?

I just bought a Speed tuned crank and an O.S. Speed rod for my VZ-R. Does any one know much about this change for this motor? If not, I guess I’ll let ya know soon.

Who makes good Ceramic bearings for On-Road motors?

Personally I would check with Amain hobbies to see if they have them. The I would go with Boca, Acer, and then Avid RC.

Have you heard anything about full Ceramic bearings? The company name is VXB.

With what header?