Good win Saturday Andrew! The R5 is running better for you. What was your rollout for the Main?

That Mugen is one cool looking car, double deck old school style!!!

I'm going through my 12L4 since I shelfed it who knows how long ago and want to reroute the wires. Does anyone have a picture or 2 of a good clean t-bar specific installation? I'm running brushed for now (Novak GTS, 4mm gold plugs, 16g wire).

Also, I read a post a few days ago about running the positive wire from the battery to the motor first and having the jumper going to the ESC rather than the way I've usually done it with the jumper going to the battery....? I'm having a little trouble picturing how to do this cleanly, anyone with a pic?

Thanks in advance!!!

Adam, I don't have a picture of a brushed install handy, but I'll get one today at the track if possible and post from there. I think my buddy Alex has a car still wired up with a brushed system in it.

'Preciate it, thanks Trips.

Thanks David. I was running a SpeedPassion 17.5. I was trying to keep it rolled out at 90 mm or so. It still only came off at 138-140* so I will try going up a tooth or two and temping again this week as well as watching lap times.

ok sorry but what is roll out im new to 1/12 scale but with my r5 wish i would have got to the party sooner love that car handles like a dream

It is how far the car will move for one rotation of the motor. So when you see someone state they had a 90mm rollout, that means their car would move 90mm for a single motor rotation.

The calculation requires knowing tire diameter, spur, and pinion.

All rollout is the amount the car moves forward (rear tires roll) for one revolution of the motor shaft. Rollout only takes into account gear ratio and tire size (circumference). Since it is much easier to measure tire diameter with calipers, everyone uses that.

I posted an Excel spreadsheet in the BMI DB12R thread that allows you to easily find your rollout.

See this post: http://www.rctech.net/forum/4792583-post5349.html

For a given spur size, the left hand column is pinion size, the top row is tire diameter, and the rest of the data is the rollout. So, after entering your spur size, measure your tire diameter, go down that column until you find your desired rollout, and the go across to find the pinion you should use. The top chart is rollouts in mm, the bottom is rollouts in inches. Both tables have the tire diameter listed in mm and inches, so it doesn't matter what units someone else gives you the rollout in, you can easily find it.

Very handy , thanx

hey i'm new to link cars, and i'm not sure if i've asked this question earlier and just forgot... but anyway...

i've got a 12r5, and adjusting from box setup, exiting corners, it seems want to do 360s, this is when i'm putting the power on while steering throught the corner. I have to counter steer or go slower to get it to go where i want, didnt used to have to do this with my corally t-bar car, and don't know how to adjust for this handling issue with a link car.

I'm using standard springs front and side (just purchased all side springs today), using 20 weight side oil.

I'm pretty sure it has got to do with the side springs, should i got softer or harder, or do they just need more tention.

any advice is much appreciated.

The general rule is softer side springs for more rear grip. In m opinion, run the side springs just touching, no preload. Or back each one off from just touching by the same amount in some cases. I never pre-load the side springs, I don't believe there's any point to it.

Are you runnign the same tires and on the same surface as the Corally?

Hello all. I have weird problem. Our Carpet course is clockwise so there are more right hand corners than left. Now what happened last night was the car would not turn as much as it had to last time to the right but turns too much to the left.

The corner I am having the most problem with is right off of the Main straight there is a sweeping right full throttle until you get 270 degrees then you have to slow down to finish the 450 degree corner then a immediate left 180 degree corner (attached drawing) when I transition to the left the rear slides out and I have to counter steer to keep from hitting the pole.

Is there any glaring issues with my car that anyone would recognize? I did check for binding and my motor wires look OK but they may be getting tight at the extents of motion of the rear pod.

thanks for any help.

CRC Carpet knife 3.2R with Checkpoint money 19T 43mm rollout

Sounds like a tweak issue. Turning too hard to the left usually indicates the right rear is too heavy. Hold the car up at eye level and sight down along teh bottom of the chassis from the rear. You want to see if the bottom pod plate's front edge is aligned with the main chassis plate's rear edge. I'm betting you'll see the pod hanging right side low. You may even be missing the left side side spring if the problem is really severe.

Back the side springs off, then lower them so that the rear pod sits level side to side with the main chassis, and the springs are just touching down. That'll get you real close. Check on a tweakboard to get it right on the money.

Not really related to your handling issue, are you sure you're running 33mm rollout on that Money 19? That sounds awfully short for that motor in a 1/12 car... unless it's a really small track... I'm used to running a Komodo 19 around 48-50 mm, a Money would like even more gear than a Komodo I'd think...

Money motors generally like to be at around 52 min to 58 max on a large track even for a really small track like my local one i never go below 45mm. If your running 33mmpr then your well undergeared...

Regarding the handling, the post aboved covered all the bases except the front spring, if sorting out the rear tweak doesn't help then buy some new front springs and see if that helps or check your steering end points on your tranny or check to see if you have shimmed one front wheel more than the other or check you are running the same compounds on the front wheels or check the front ride hieht left to right or check you are running the same ride height blocks on the rear.

These are all things that i have done wrong and i see other people people doing wrong

Steve

holy hell its been TOO long since i stepped away from RC. lately ive been feeling the urge to get back into it. the only thing thats remotely ready to run is the 1/12 scale.

i need new tires so i went and bought the new (to me) jaco prism tires thinking they are direct bolt on from before. boy i was wrong. i figured i need flange bearings up front, but i need either a new diff or spacers for the rear. im missing 3mm for both sides due to the offset from the new wheels.

my 1/12th is a rc12l3 with the L4 chassis so the rear pod is still the old design. do i need to buy a new rear pod or i can run spacers ?

thanks