Hey Mark,

Can't wait to get my Go .25 (i think there is one heading darrens way), been watching ralphy's and robs run around the track for a couple of weeks now. was just wondering when/if the turbo plug will be coming out for it sometime soon.

cheers for now
Glenn.

There is a turbo plug avail for that engine already

Engine looks great on the dyno mark, its bloody singing!

can't wait to see how the rest of the testing goes this weekend, keep us posted!

Glenn.

hi guys

i am after a bit of advice

i took my car out for a run on thursday night, and it ran like a dog

wouldnt idle, ran rich, then ran lean

i tried to tune with adjustments to the hsn, but it wasnt having any part of it, it hated me, i call it a 'angry' engine

can anyone help me with some tuning advice,

ie: what is the stock settings for the carby,
and the best and simplest method for tuning,

i have seen guys at the track pinching their fuel line? but i dont under stand the reason for this and how it can affect tune

i am not a stupid person, (others my say different), but i am not experienced enough with engine tuning

anyway

all advice is greatly appreciated

ps: i have a Go .28 5-port with the LRP Pipe

thanks again

[QUOTE=kmit;5187363]hi guys

i am after a bit of advice

i took my car out for a run on thursday night, and it ran like a dog

wouldnt idle, ran rich, then ran lean

i tried to tune with adjustments to the hsn, but it wasnt having any part of it, it hated me, i call it a 'angry' engine

can anyone help me with some tuning advice,

ie: what is the stock settings for the carby,
and the best and simplest method for tuning,


put both needles flush thats factory and leave the hsn there tune bottom first there a easy motor to tune once u know em lol

You are probably running a long LSN needle carb which requires the HSN to be set at flush to .5 of a turn in max, and then basically tuned with the LSN (up to 2.5 turns in).
IMPORTANT - Ensure the idle gap on your carb is no more than .7 - 1mm. If your idle gap is too wide you will chase a tune all day. Once you have the engine tuned as described below, adjust the idle speed if necessary (when you have completed all the other steps in tuning the engine).

Basically what you are doing with the pinch test is testing the amount of fuel passing through the LSN. Pinch the fuel line hard shut about 1" from the fuel nipple on the carb. If the engine revs up quickly to quite high revs, your LSN is too rich. Lean it out 1 hour max at a time then go for a short blat to clear out the engine. Come in and repeat process. Keep leaning until when you pinch the fuel line the engine revs only increase slightly (about 500 rpm) for around 5 secs before the motor dies. This is pretty close to a spot on tune for the LSN.
If you pinch off the line and the engine just dies within a couple of seconds with no increase in revs, then your are too lean. Richen until you get the above result.

Here are two tuning guides from Massive Mods that I have cut and pasted. Read and follow these carefully and you will have no problems.

1:
Hi All just wanting to give you a general tuning guide to help with your Go Engine as part of the support for Go Engine Users .

Lets assume the engine has had its first litre or quart . if you are tuning a Pro Go Engine then please realise that it will not be fully broken in till the 4 litre or 1 US Gal mark.

It is important not to tune for max HSN tune till that point.

First things first , Equipment needed Tuning screw driver , temp gun and a hammer . Please get the temp gun and place it on a firm surface , grab the hammer and repeatedly bash the temp gun till its pretty safe to say it dosent work any more ( you may want to use safety glasses ) .. This will help make your tuning more accurate..

Check to see all seals are air tight. tank , carb, exhaust etc. Do NOT tune an engine if you have a leak from any one of these places.

first start engine and run on desired surface ( surface change will chagne tuning ) This will be the tune for that desired surface , if you tune on Clay and then run on grass you will need to richen for high traction .. And again if you change from a low grip tyre to a high grip tyre you will need to change it again .. Then factor ambient temps and air density .. Tuning in the morning to mid day to afternoon will change your tune again so please keep this in mind. Cold air Richer setting , Hot air Leaner Setting .. generally speaking ..

Run at least 1 tank from start to finish . engines will not reach full heat till the 3rd tank generally.

then tune HSN for clean acceleration for the entirety of the tank . if you sag in power at half tank , richen 2/8 on HSN . Whats happening is lean bog .. internal Crank case heat will atomise fuel more readily and cause this to happen . This is why you should NEVER tune a cold engine..

ok while engine is still hot listen to the idle and adjust to an acceptable setting.. then run engine again for half a tank.. pinch fuel tube and count to 4 engine SHOULD idle up slightly die by 5 ... if it dies before this richen , if it takes too long, lean .. Please use very small incriments for this .. LSN can be sensitive ..

Please note that when you change your IDLE gap you are in effect changing your LSN as well .. so you need to balance the relationship . When you increase idle gap you are pushing the LSN out from the spray bar .. this will in effect slightly richen the LSN setting and vise versa ... Its not a huge factor but it will make a difference.

Ok once you think you have it right , then run a few tanks from start to finish . it should perform well all through the tank .. NOW DONT TOUCH THE TUNE ! if it goes out there are 2 reasons .. Your needles are loose or you have an external problem sepperate to the engine ie Plug , Pressure Leak , Binding etc etc .. When something changes , shut the engine down and find out why ...

Dont try to tune out a binding problem with your clutch by tuning your HSN ...

2:
Hi All

Just wanting to address the situation with the Go Carb

We have the Go Carbs with the long lsn and yes people have been finding it different to tune, not many but some.... That does not mean there is a problem with the carb . The difference is in the tuning. When people swap to an OS or Nova carb all thats happening is you are going back to a tuning that you are used to. and thats totally fine but i want to assure that the new Go Carbs with the long taper LSN is completely fine.

We have been racing with these here in AUS and indeed the Malay and Taiwan racing team uses them with no adverse effects.

Ok so what i have done is do a test on an average tuning guide to help people past these issues , while you are still welcome to go back to the short needle , for those who want to stay with the long one , here is what you do.

Please re set your HSN and LSN to flush. THIS IS FOR LONG LSN CARBS ONLY

Turn in ( lean ie clock wise ) HSN half a turn . Thats 180 deg

Turn in ( lean ie clock wise ) LSN 1 and a half turns ( 1.5 turns ) Thats 540 deg

This applies for Pro Carbs ONLY ie Black composite carbs.

RTR carbs have different metering and require different settings.

Now what you have is a basic tune . From there you should warm up the engine ie run at least half a tank on the track and see where you need to fine tune from there. Different fuels, tyres, filters and pipes with change these base settings so please use these as a guide.

What i find where people are going wrong is that they are over compensating a lean HNS for an incorrect LSN tune setting.. This has been with tests at the track with pro racers and noobs .. i have been looking at how they tune and what ive done is colate information to help with new tuning as listed above.

hope this helps !

if you have any further enquiries pleae contact me directly !

[email protected]

MM

hi guys

i greatly appreciate your knowledge, and advice

i will give it a try tomorrow

thanks again

tim k

If it wasnt already covered by Grizz's awesome post please flush the HSN ... generally when you have weird tuning probs that go from lean to rich no matter what you di its an obstruction in the HSN ... dirt of someting in there shifts making it lean then rich ..

Cheers MM

Merry Christmas to all you nitro heads out there.
Take care during the festive season. I look forward to chatting with you all in 09

hey mark im keen on modding my 3port how much for a stage 5 cheers jase

Hey guys. Well I finally got a chance to start running in my 5 port this afternoon. We did the first 2 tanks with HB444 then did another 3 with MM A-Main(Letting it cool between tanks). Despite only having minimal fuel through it, it seems as though it is gonna be a hell of a motor. We have only done very brief amounts of full throttle so far but you can already see the potential there just waiting to be tapped into once I can get some more fuel through and get more of a race tune into it.

Well I am half way through running in my motor when my brand spanking new Thottle servo decided to fck itself.. NOT IMPRESSED! Guess I have to throw in my other servo in there to finish running it in I am really peaved

Ouch ! i had that happen to me ... lucky it was while it was on the box , it kept going to full throttle on its own lol .. imagine if i put it on the ground

Yea, it was pretty bad luck thats for sure. Its getting replaced with a new version so thats a good result. Just means that until I get back from Whyalla I am stuck using my Haboa H-102 servo for throttle. Its not a major deal but a bit dissapointing.

The motor is kicking along just nicely now also. Its really getting some balls to it. Pitty the Truggy decided to argue with a concrete step and yesterday my centre diff in the Hyper8 deicded to take a holiday but that should be sorted out today so I can keep the GO motor cranking. I will throw those road tires on that I got from you MM (http://www.massivemods.com.au/produc...8a255ebe9dcb7b) and give them a good work out in the street

I love those tyres ! too cool !