thanks odpurple.

I read mention of a spring steel t-bar for t-bar cars. who makes them and are they worth it or will it break other parts.
tim

http://www.silvaconcepts.net/t_plates.shtml

OK doing some looking where can I find a replacement t-bar for a CRC t-force car. Are all of them the same hole location and such. Had a .063 fiberglass one on the car but it's done for. Lefthander seems to have a good selection of them but which one fits and suits, onroad carpet medium grip track.
Tim

Any associated style t-bar will fit your car
http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/product_i...products_id=32
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX3334&P=7
They can also be found in many other online stores

We carry almost all CRC parts.

Ashford Hobby CRC 13593 T-Bar Light .063 for T-Fource

Ashford Hobby CRC 13592 T-Bar Med .075 for T-Fource

Ashford Hobby CRC 13594 T-Bar Med .081 for T-Fource

Ashford Hobby ASSOCIATED 4520 .075 SYMMETRICAL T BAR 12L

Ashford Hobby ASSOCIATED 4522 .063 SYMMETRICAL T BAR 12L

I'm having 2 problems here:

1) I installed a brand new LRP Sphere Competition in my AE 12R5, soldered everything perfect etc., and when I turn it on, I can steer but even at full throttle my pinion rotates about 1mm each time I hit the throttle, and it beeps every time I do it. I used 2-2-2-2 settings (for 12th scale) and did no modifications whatsoever.

2) I'm having problems using Spektrum in my 12th scale car. In offroad it is perfect, but in 12th scale I can't even steer, the servo gets current, everything working perfect (has nothing to do with my ESC problem, had the same thing with my previous, working ESC), but it doesn't react to my transmitter signals.

Can someone help me out?

For problem 1, make sure the sensor cable is pushed all the way in, I've had this problem before and had to push it in a little more and it was fine.

Thanks, but it didn't really help. The pinion doesn't move at all now, just a louder beep

Jason, Mudvayne, trips, et al.

I discovered the side damper was messing with the tweak readings. When I removed it and checked tweak it was really close. It only took about a half turn on one side to get it perfect. I also switched to new .20 springs up front and although the car pushes off power a little more than I want, the car was better behaved. Ill be interested to see how the car works with Jason's linear .20's.

When I first checked balance I had the balance pins in the hole at the front of the chassis and the back of the pod. I had to add close to 55 grams (and with that much lead I couldn't get it all close to the edge) to balance. After noticing the new pod for the 12r5 that balances the motor and the recent discussions about balancing the car minus the pod, I moved the rear balance pin to the allen head for the center pivot screw. I only had to add about 20 grams, with the switch on the left and the PT in the center. Probably could get it close to balance with no weight with a standard size receiver, my PT on the right, and the switch on the right. I may be ordering the centered pod plates etc for the 12th. Today I could barely feel the pull to one side.

Thanks for all the help!

Check your battery pack for a bad cell.

Thanks for the help guys. rpoage you'll be getting a order soon.
Tim

I own a Gen X, and have 1 question. in the manual for building the dif it doesnt show a thrust bearing being used, but the car i have does have one.

Can someone explain what the difference is in running one. I've been running with it since i got it, but now i want to try it without, will I be sorry, or should i try it? Is there an advantage to running it?

Also are the washers that go on either side of the thrust bearing supposed to be smooth or have a grove in it?

thanks

s

The thrust bearing helps the regular bearings last longer, since it helps to reduce the side loads on the other bearings. The red anodized spacer with the little lip is to transfer the load to the inner race of the regular bearings. The axle and diff bearings should last quite a while, but if you don't use the thrust bearing the life will be greatly diminished. Regular bearings don't like side loads, like when you hit the barriers.

The "washers" for the thrust bearing have grooves in them, which are actually the raceway for the thrust bearing balls.

i am looking for info on the mounting postions of a servo. a post # or somebody reply. i have read chunks of the thread and have not found it yet. my questions are:

Angled vers flat

ball studs front servo saver or behind

tie rods straight or angled

i will be racing on carpet and stock class with 2 cars bmi ff07

thanks
Racin'4-Fun