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Old 08-28-2003 | 09:59 AM
  #3751  
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Originally posted by speedxl
mike d i trying to find out what the street price is for the conversion kit would you happen to have an idea?
speedxl - I heard around $100. I know some people on this thread have purchased the kit and can better answer your question. Anybody?
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Old 08-28-2003 | 10:03 AM
  #3752  
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mike i got your p m i appreciate you help iam just dissapointed with yokomo support . i dont whant to show up to the snow birds and be out to lunch on the carpet. the car is good on asphalt but of course the yoky wasnt designed for carpet. ive heared it wasnt going to be released . just a car that was designed for
masami.
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Old 08-28-2003 | 11:07 AM
  #3753  
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Originally posted by Fiddle Fadel
SpeedXL
You might consider getting the IRS Rugrat conversion for your Yokomo.
Thats what I did with my Yokomo.
I had my local Hobbytown get the kit for me. $85. you can see the conversion on the IRS site.
Dave @ IRS is also in the process of making the adj. front AE conversion in 12th scale. This will make a very adj. front suspension.
Also with the IRS Rugrat you can run the car as a T-plate or side damper/spring set uo. ( similar to a CRC 6-Pack, but a dedicated 4 cell chasis and adj. battery postions.)
A very nice Conversion.
Dave
Would it be possible to use the IRS conversion kit on my Carpet Knife?? Because so far I haven't liked the side spring rear end, it seems to break every time I lightly tap the sweeper at the end of the straight . Even with the speed merchent side links. The first time that I went out on the track after installing the speed merchent side links my car kinda hopped into the sweeper (there are some nasty wrinkles in our carpet at my track because it's old, which makes my car kinda hop on some places, one of them being on the inside of the sweeper turn) and it broke some pieces on the little "foot ball" pivot thing, which also stripped out the foot ball shaped piece of carbon fiber. And it pulled the piston out of the shock and spilled oil all over my battary, but the battary is no good anyway so that doesn't really bother me. So I'm looking to try a car with a t-bar rear end. I don't know if that will help at all, but I'm just looking to try it. But aside from the fragile rear end (I'm sure that all 1/12 scale cars have there fragile parts) I'm pretty happy with my CK. So I'm just wondering if the Rug Rat conversion kit would be able to work on a carpet knife?? Thanks !
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Old 08-28-2003 | 11:08 AM
  #3754  
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speedxl-I can get you an IRS RUGRAT as I am an IRS dealer. E-mail me if your serious and I'll get you a price, and date of shipment.

Ray
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Old 08-28-2003 | 11:35 AM
  #3755  
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Originally posted by racerdx6
Would it be possible to use the IRS conversion kit on my Carpet Knife?? ...
racerdx - Yes, but you will need to purchase a t-bar, pivot sockets, pivot balls and t-bar spacers in addition to the IRS conversion kit. Those additional items should cost around $15.
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Old 08-28-2003 | 12:21 PM
  #3756  
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The Pivot socket is just the thing that goes on the carbon fiber "foot ball" shaped piece right? But on the carpet knife you have to cut the pivot socket down on the sides so it clears the battary and motor. And the pivot balls are just the same as the pivot balls that came with my carpet knife right? They're about 1/4" in diameter? The pivot balls that came with the carpet knife are the same as the pivot balls that I got to convert my car to speed merchent side links.
So I'm considering doing the conversion for my carpet knife. But I want to give the car more of a chance, I'm waiting for some nice new battaries to come in and once I get the new battaries and the new carpet comes, than I'll work with the car a lot more to get it working better. Thanks for the help.
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Old 08-28-2003 | 12:22 PM
  #3757  
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Oh yeah, does anyone know the web address for IRS's web site?
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Old 08-28-2003 | 12:23 PM
  #3758  
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racer dx mike is right youll pretty much need every thing except for axle assy, pods and shock. that pretty much what you will need if you want to convert to running a t plate car, or just buy a complete car like 12l3 and just buy the bottom plate.
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Old 08-28-2003 | 12:42 PM
  #3759  
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http://www.teamirsrc.com/
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Old 08-28-2003 | 12:50 PM
  #3760  
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thanks davidl
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Old 08-28-2003 | 05:02 PM
  #3761  
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racerdx- those are not very fragile parts you are breaking, or at least from what I have seen (I would imagine that you would crack wheels, or the main chassis or something before you broke that stuff, even the axle... go figure... lol). A T-bar is much more likely to break, and its pretty much the same exact stress point as the football pivot thingie that you are breaking. Also the pivot balls on a t-bar are different (they have flanges on each side, similar to the ones on the front of a dynamic strut front end).

Also, new batteries will not help solve that situation, it will problem make it worse. New carpet might, however I am doubltful. And, while it might be a handling problem that you are facing, there isnt much that you can be off with a 12th scale, its pretty much the same set up everywhere give or take a few things, but nothing that should make it feel undriveable (unless you go from asphalt to cleveland, however thats hardly the case here). What it comes down to is that, when you hit something there is a chance that you will break. When you hit something hard enough the energy has to go somewhere, and something will most likely break or warp or something. A t-bar car will be much more likely to break than a sprung car.

Except for the case of the yok (which masami had specially made for the worlds in '01), most cars can be made to work, espically in stock. So pick a car stick with it, and learn to make it fast, and with a 12th scale as I was saying above, there is normally one basic set up that works pretty decent at most club racing carpet tracks (give or take some 10-20 weights of oil, a rate of spring, etc...), but a car should not be out to lunch. If it is normally its something else is wrong with the car... tweaked, mis-adjusted side links, binding in something, etc... (and learning how to get rid of all of those problems takes time and expeariance).
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Old 08-28-2003 | 05:39 PM
  #3762  
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Does anyone know if the IRS front end parts will be coming out? I saw prototype parts at Cleveland last year, but I heard Dave was not going to make them due to cost ..Is this true?
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Old 08-28-2003 | 07:34 PM
  #3763  
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racer dx i run a yokomo yr12 and it runs very good in stock these cars can take a beating more so than any touring car ! except for an hpi car, man the kids can beat them to death and they run forever. but anyway sounds to me that you might be doing something wrong during assembly or your trigger finger stays full noodle when your car is driving fast straight into the wall . all cars once set up only require small adjustments once youve found the basic setup that works for you. granted there are some situations that are very rare and requires wierd adjustments. some cars like mine no matter what you do to them wont work in certain situations like mine that the chassis is to thin to run on carpet because it has flex built into it for asphalt.
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Old 08-28-2003 | 07:35 PM
  #3764  
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Originally posted by stormperson
racerdx- those are not very fragile parts you are breaking, or at least from what I have seen (I would imagine that you would crack wheels, or the main chassis or something before you broke that stuff, even the axle... go figure... lol). A T-bar is much more likely to break, and its pretty much the same exact stress point as the football pivot thingie that you are breaking. Also the pivot balls on a t-bar are different (they have flanges on each side, similar to the ones on the front of a dynamic strut front end).

Also, new batteries will not help solve that situation, it will problem make it worse. New carpet might, however I am doubltful. And, while it might be a handling problem that you are facing, there isnt much that you can be off with a 12th scale, its pretty much the same set up everywhere give or take a few things, but nothing that should make it feel undriveable (unless you go from asphalt to cleveland, however thats hardly the case here). What it comes down to is that, when you hit something there is a chance that you will break. When you hit something hard enough the energy has to go somewhere, and something will most likely break or warp or something. A t-bar car will be much more likely to break than a sprung car.

Except for the case of the yok (which masami had specially made for the worlds in '01), most cars can be made to work, espically in stock. So pick a car stick with it, and learn to make it fast, and with a 12th scale as I was saying above, there is normally one basic set up that works pretty decent at most club racing carpet tracks (give or take some 10-20 weights of oil, a rate of spring, etc...), but a car should not be out to lunch. If it is normally its something else is wrong with the car... tweaked, mis-adjusted side links, binding in something, etc... (and learning how to get rid of all of those problems takes time and expeariance).
Thanks, I agree with you on this one. The reason I said that I wanted to use new battaries in the car before I converted it is because it's hard to tell how to gear the car when your battaries are so terrible. And one reason why I kinda want to try a t-bar car is that my track carries parts for them. Like the Hyper Drive and the 12L3, and the Rug Rat (which is basically a 12L3 isn't it?). I was lucky when I only broke the plastic piece on my foot ball thingy and not the carbon fiber part. Because that would of made me wait a long time to get that part fixed. Which would of really sucked even more because I already waited like over a week to get the parts for the side links.
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Old 08-28-2003 | 07:43 PM
  #3765  
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marvi/mike d: thanks for the info.

marvi: i'll check out giocamoto, maybe over the weekend. i hope they still have it in stock. hopefuly i'll be back into 12th by mid-Sept. lets organize a race soon.

Last edited by ROBORAT; 08-28-2003 at 08:19 PM.
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