Thak you both of you for all the advise. I am keeping the car and hope that I can win some laps in the cold season. :0)

At first my initial thought was no. But I dug out some spare delrin plates and tried them on my old hyperform car (12l4 graphite conversion w/ tubes) It fits with both graphite pieces attached as well. This was a 3 bolt rear pod, the 4 bolt rear pod should work as well since the rev 4.5 used the 4 bolt pod and the rev 5 uses the same bottom plate.

You may have to dremel a bit of your bottom pod plate from your tbar car to get the motor to sit flush against the pod plate though. You also need a tweak brace with damper tubes as well which the t force has, but the 12l series do not. Your results may vary.

Measure the rear plates holes. My hyperform car measures about 60.5mm from center to center of the holes.

Edit: Another thing to consider that just popped in my head. The ballstud on the rev5 is mounted back compared to a tbar car. The distance to the shock mount may be further since the t bar pushes it closer to the front of the car.

I run with a with a guy who uses that car. He seems to have a lot of problems with the ballcup on the center spring popping off when hit. Last time we raced, he tangled me, and I went end over end, but my car was ok. 2 corners later, I lightly tapped him and he broke in the main. *shrug*. Not sure if it was already broke or what, but during that race, he kept having broken ballcups on the shock.

Paul

Here are some pics of my updated prototype FF07 conversion kit made by Jari Taskila. It has the lowest center a gravity of any 12th car on the market, Brushless motor friendly, and the new parts let you implement the new associated front end and damper shock, this new version is in testing and maybe availible soon Here is his website http://www.ffrcconcepts.com/

Thanks Tyler

New to 1/12th, previous rubber tire TC experience and 1/10th oval (pavement converted buggy and pancar) in the late 80's/early 90's... thought I was getting into a "driver's class" but after reading pages upon pages of posts in this thread it seems more like I have stumbled into a "mathematician's class" I do have an actual question but first I think I would like to hear someone say that it is ok to run pretrued tires without knowing my rollout, run the stock diff and shock, and just learn to drive the car without worrying myself to death over a .5 mm ride height adjustment!

And the actual question is: Are the "Gurney flaps" on my Protoform Speed
12b worth mounting? Will they have a noticeable effect and will they become track debris the first time I get upside down? I don't think I have ever seen them in a picture and the PF website stock photo doesn't show them either...I'm not positive I would have them mounted correctly even if I did decide to use them. Thanks for any input!

-rocky b

For the most part yes it's ok to not be so concerned about roll out...given your previous pan car experience your probabaly pretty capable of getting a close gear ratio without taking it to the precise extreme of roll out. Most of the cars have a very capable stock shock and differential. Ride height though really will effect handling so that at least you'll want to get really close front to rear.

On our small track I really couldn't feel a difference between using the added spoiler or not. It did hold on just fine when bolted on. On a large track where you get up to speeds where aerodynamics make more of a difference you would notice it.

All this talk of chassis being "brushless motor friendly" got me to wanting to ask about my 12L3. Can that chassis accommodate brushless motors without modification of some sort? If not, what do I need to adjust so I can put a brushless in the pod?

Try Nexusracing.net

Fav0re:: Sweet ride!

Corally:: Like the new Jari car too!

Hi Tyler, new car looks sweet! It actually looks similar to a car that I have been working on myself over the last couple of months. I noticed that the chassis, between the 2 t-bar holes, has had holes countersunk into it. I'm assuming that is to clear the screw heads on the t-bar pivots. On my car, I had the material underneath the the t-bar removed so the hole assembly sits lower into the chassis (reducing the roll centre I think!). To get the stiffness back, the cross brace extends forwards from the rear pivot to the front pivot and then onto a alu' mounting block for the shock and roll over mast. The cross brace is bolted in place in 5 positions so hopefully retains the overall stiffness even though a fair amount of material is missing from the centre of the chassis! I also had to place spacers between the pivots and the crossbrace so that the top part of the pivots clear the brace. After all that, I then machined some standoffs to the correct height and bolted them onto the chassis. The whole back end now sits really low. I also have a new top plate and crossbrace being made at the moment (fwww.fibrelyte.co.uk) which also uses a single damper tube or associated shock. There is also a new crossbrace that goes with the new top plate. Let us know how your new cars goes mate and I'll do the same! Cheers, Chris.

Hey Rocky, dont get caught up in the technical stuff right off. Allmost every 1/12 car has componets that are more than capable of doing the job, worry about upgrades and nit-picking stuff once you've got the basic driving down. The only things to worry about is ride height(as the inspector said that is imporant) and keeping the tires even(rotated and trued) before each run. Now as to your ? on carpet I have'nt really needed the gurney flap but it is very helpfull on asphalt for anything faster than a 17.5.

Sounds cool post some pics and track results when you can, I love to see the level of interest and inovation in 1/12 right now

Your DB12R is looking cool fav0re, that color looks like peach on my monitor what color is it?

It does look like peach in the picture. It really is "burnt orange" in person. Dark orange is the only theme not played out yet.

[QUOTE=chris moore;4844909]Hey Rocky, dont get caught up in the technical stuff right off. Allmost every 1/12 car has componets that are more than capable of doing the job, worry about upgrades and nit-picking stuff once you've got the basic driving down. The only things to worry about is ride height(as the inspector said that is imporant) and keeping the tires even(rotated and trued) before each run. Now as to your ? on carpet I have'nt really needed the gurney flap but it is very helpfull on asphalt for anything faster than a 17.5.


Jeez Chris you are everywhere around here! Thanks for the input, I will be running 19T brushed on asphalt so I believe I will install the flaps...are they mounted flat as an extension of the rear of the body or should I leave a "wicker bill" on the trailing edge when I cut them out? I wish I could find a pic of them installed so if anybody has one feel free to post up. Also ride height...what is a good starting point for asphalt and which set of axle eccentrics should I use to get that ride height (12L4)? So many questions!!
Thanks!

-rocky b

Can someone tell me what the minimum weight is for 1/12 scale? I thought it was 792 grams but ROAR says 880g (I thought that was a misprint from last year) and IFMAR says 865g.

I suppose a better question is what do all you "experts" think it should be?