been running mini'sfor a month,gonna run the TCS race in connecticut this weekend, any suggestions for tires, outdoor ashfalt. also they are five minute races so my new lipo packs wont drop to low levels if im topping them between round ( useing stock speedo) or do i need to put my sphere in it

The stock speedo, if its electronic, is fine but you must run a lipo cut off module with it. If you dont you run the risk of stuffing the battery. If you dont have a cut off run the sphere.

Terry

You don't need a cutoff module if you are topping off between races. In fact, it's only when you run a Mini (with a silver can) for more than 15 minutes off a full charge that you need to be concerned about running the voltage too low. You'll only run through about 1100 mah in a 5 minute race, so assuming you're using an Orion 3200, well, do the math...

Our local rules allow either of front or rear wheel drive shells on the M Chassis. I have had much fun running the Alfa on the M03M chassis but would like to revert to LWB.

Anyone know if the BMW M Roadster mchassis shell will fit on the M03L chassis?

Thanks
Dave

i have ordered this, will post test run result, stay tuned.....

Just subscribing again..

Cheers

A cute little Fiat Abarth shell I painted up just for club running...

Hey i asked this on another forum but 70 veiw no replies to the thread so my q is how does an Orion 3200 lipo pass the mini test i.e. barrel rolls, flips, t bones and other solid crashes?

I used the 2400 Orion pack in my mini and it was hooked up. I was using Nitro Shoes not mini tires though. I was alone on the track so no crashes, but it did roll a couple of times and all was fine. I cut up a TC wing and slipped it under the pack to help protect from scratches. I also used elastic bands to help hold the pack in. I'll never run anything other than lipo again

My view regarding the performance between Lipo's and NiMH's in a Mini is that the NiMH's provide more initial voltage and better acceleration. This equates to the performance of the NiMH battery to be better over a five minute race than a Lipo. This is using either a 4200 or 4600 NiMH battery pack.

I have had better results in racing with the NiMH's than the Lipo. All of the fast guy's are using NiMH's also.

Just food for thought.

BTW

The Lipo's are way easier to look after than the NiMH's.

Later

Calvin.

That's what draws me to the lipo. Much lighter for transporting to & from the track. Less time maintaining the batts means more time working on the car, other car(s) or hanging out with friends at the track. I RACE 4FUN and don't really care about winning.

I run the narrow ball diff and managed to hurt the teeth on the plastic spur gear - is the plastic spur available as a spare or set of spurs? I saw what look similar in the spur kit for for the DF03.

Thanks and regards
Dave

I don't believe that I have ever seen a rebuilt kit for the Manta Ray ball diff, only the complete unit.

If you're going to replace it anyway, go with the TA03 version. It's pretty much the same thing, but the smaller bearing part is pre-assembled. Very nice.

Jim

Has anyone ever seen a rebuild kit for the Tamiya Low Friction Damper set? (pn 53155)

If not, does anyone know exactly which bits would be required to rebuild these things? I'm looking for everything from shock shafts, to o-rings, to that piece on the top that connects to the chassis.

Thanks,
Jim

I've never seen a rebuild kit, but these are the parts you need.
53334 V Parts
53576 Oil seal
53574 Damper guide O-rings
53577 Damper urethane bushing
Just finished doing mine this afternoon so I still had the parts labels. Also, my TRF shcks were of two different lengths so I don't know which shock shaft to suggest.