how much preload do you guys start with on the jp hard spring? a guy I know is tryin to set one up and doesn't have a starting place

1.25mm (low grip) to 1.6mm (med/high grip) down from the end of the crankshaft.

hi guys.. i noticed in this nt1 there is some air bubbles in the fuel line
i never had this issue with the rrr .. is it because the fuel tank is screwed down tight onto the top deck??

how do we overcome this??

thanks

Never had that problem in my car

Use inline fuel filter ( place it vertical on the roll over bar ).

Optional : Open the nipple, put a dab of glue on the threads, close it again until it stop turning ( don't use force ). This should ensure the tank is always pressurized, no air leak.

i had issues setting my clutch up, but a mate at the track finally
sorted it out for me, here are the clutch settings:

flyweights: Kyosho, drilled out to 4mm holes
clutch shoe: xray yellow
clutch bell: xray ventilated version
flywheel: xray lightweight version
spring: CRF square spring
thrust bearing: mugen
spring tension: .5mm from end of nut that holds flywheel in place
clutch gap shimming: .7mm (shim until bell does not touch shoe,
with both bearings installed and then add an extra .1mm shim)
endplay: .2mm

works awesome now! these measurements were
taken using a digital clutch gap/endplay tool, (not verniers) so
measurements are very accurate

by the way, where did you get that caliper?

I think Brooklyn Hobbies sells them

Kamikaze Toys also has that exact Cen Tech brand. A must have tool for the serious racer.

http://kamikazetoysandhobbies.com/pr...php?prod=TTCT1

true. i used one a mate lent to his mate, and it's the best specialty tool i've ever used. best peice of equipment o've come acros for a while. i'm definately getting one when i have the cash

this tool will allow you to assemble and disasemble your clutch after each race day and have it perfectly exact like before each time. by disasembling the clutch you prolong the life of the clutch spring and slow down the process of the spring going soft.

The spring tension specs does not match the photo you show. That clutch nut seems to be more like 1.2 - 1.5 down from the end. A caliper is also needed to measure this, but yes.... that tool is great!!!

Not sure if someone told this already, but those pins sticking higher than the shoes if not good. That may be why you can not set the clutch gap correctly and also why the clutch will never work correctly.


Regards and sorry if this was already pointed out.

DJ Apolaro

Oh yeah. Did not notice that.

That's because he's not using the original Xray flywheel. You will also notice that the clutch bell seems to be rubbing on the adjusting nut. I would suggest you either use the original Xray nut or the Kyosho which is 0.20 shorter than the Xray nut.

The photo is just an advertisement of the tool.

Hey Dennison,

I left you a message on your cell phone. Not sure if you have the same number or not, but is was about 1 week ago. It is the number you gave me when you got here to Florida. Call me today after work on my cell 305-586-6072, anytime after 4pm. Also the clutch will not work properly with those pins sticking out like that. They can not pass the shoes.

DJ Apolaro